Inliners International Forums General Discussion Electrical high amp relay

I've been working on wiring my 52 chevy pickup for that last year or so, Id get close to being done and then decide I don't like something I did and make changes. My next change is to do some rewiring on the ignition switch side so that not alot of current has to run through the ignition switch.

My current setup is a 10 gauge wire coming from my power distribution block on the firewall to the BATT post on the ignition switch. From there I have another 10 gauge wire going from the ACC post to the fuse block for the switched power circuits. From the COIL post I have a 12 gauge high amp wire going to the HEI distributor. And from the START post I have a 14 gauge wire going to the starter solenoid. I also have a small fuse block (4 fuses) that provides power to the computer for my throttle body fuel injection system. I split that in to 2 constant and 2 switched circuits, which gets power from the ignition switch BATT and COIL terminals.

I believe all this combined, has been too much current passing through the ignition switch as its all messed up (start post has power in run, acc post only has power when the key is in accessory, not both accessory and run like its suppose to).

Anyways sorry for the long post, just trying to explain my situation, but what Im wondering is, could I use two ford remote mount starter solenoids to switch power to the accessory side of the main fuse block and to the distributor. This way I would only need to run a 16 or 18 gauge wire from the ignition switch to the solenoids, which would get their main power from the power distribution block on the firewall. This way only the power to activate the solenoids (the two Im asking about and the actual starter solenoid) and the power for the computer would be running through the ignition switch.

I just want to make sure that the ford solenoids will have no problem having constant power going through them.

Thanks

Starter solenoids are not designed for continuous energization and will fry in short order. Also because starter solenoids are designed for very high (but nonetheless short duration) currents, the amount of power used by the solenoid coil itself is quite large. You want to use a continuous duty DC relay or contactor for this type of service. I can't remember the manufacturer of the contactor I purchased for my last project, but I beleive it was purchased through Summit, and so is readily available. It was 150A rated if I remember correctly.

thanks

I came across this at a place I buy some of my electrical stuff from. Looks like it should fit the bill. http://www.delcity.net/store/SPST-12V-85A-Insulated-Continuous-Solenoid/p_790160.a_1

I just got my new ignition switch, its by painless wiring and is a lot better quality than the one I had bought locally at autozone. I tested it with the multimeter and in run the accessory post does have power, so I must have overloaded the other switch and burned up some contacts.


Thanks again

Mark Hamilton of Mad Electrical supplies relays that might fill your needs. He is certainly an interesting guy to converse with.

thanks, but from reading that page it sounds like they done supply large amp relays like what I'm after.

I tried posting earlier, let's see if it'll go now.

I have gotten a relay like you ask for from NAPA.

I don't recall what they call it.

I have since found an automotive electric supplier here that stocks them, as well as a marine supplier.

IDK if they are a Cooper / Bussman or a Cole / Hearse (sp?) product

edit:

Hooray, it went.

I decided to try that relay out, just bought one from the place I posted above, had a few other electrical supplies I needed so figured why not. Looks like it should suit my purpose very well.

For the distributor Im just going to use a standard 40/50amp square plastic relay and see how it goes. Ive been told it should be more than fine.