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Joined: Mar 2010
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DRH1940 Offline OP
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Using the article from this article (http://www.joesfalcon.com/page12.html) I've decided to do the Shelby trick and lower my upper control arm for better handling and install a spring designed to lower the front end 1" These two things are supposed to drop my front end about 2" to 2 1/4".

I was talking to a front-end man and he said he wouldn't know how to adjust the caster and camber after I did did those modifications. I called another shop and they refused to even look at it.

It's my theory that the front end adjustments shouldn't change that much and any good front end mechanic should know what to do.

Am I wrong?

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When you do the upper arm mod, and the car settles after you drive it, the spring perch will be in the same spot it was before vertically - it has to be since it is supporting the same load. But since the upper arm mount is now lower, the upper (and lower) ball joint will be HIGHER. And to do that they both swing in an arc, so they may be further out (or in) than before.

I am aware of the unibody "safety feature" (ie it causes a severe understeer or push) such that when you corner, the spring compresses and the upper ball joint pushes out, causing severe positive camber on the outer wheel and so lousy cornering.

Lowering the arm SHOULD mean the upper arm will now be out further than it used to be sitting static, so after you move the arms you will have positive camber and have to move the lower eccentric to fix this. Is there enough movement in the lower eccentric to do this? Either there is or there isn't.

If new upper arms come with the kit, the new upper arms might be a different length (ie shorter) to keep the lower camber eccentric nominally in its center position, allowing for plenty of adjustment.

If you KNOW this kit works and there is plenty of camber adjustment left then go for it, but I can see why a mechanic would not "guarantee" that everything will be ok.

Also, this mod will make the car want to oversteer (ie spin out) so some mechanics might not want to be associated with touching it so they don't get blamed for wrenching a car into a non-factory loose condition.

Not really an answer but an explanation of why they are hesitant perhaps.....

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caster +2.5 to +3.0
camber 0 to -1/2 (to hug crown of road)
toe 1/16" in. I don't know what the degree is for this, but I think it's around .25deg.

That's after you put this on...
http://drgas.mybisi.com/product/187546/Ford-Bump-Steer-Kit_975194.html

I'm a confirmed chevy guy, but a mustang (and I guess ranchero too) are the best handling vintage cars period after they're updated, which is easy to do. If only they weren't so flexy and front heavy....

Come to the dark side, young Luke.....

Last edited by 56er; 08/02/10 12:00 PM.

"The first rule of overkill: You can never have too much overkill."
"Overkill is underrated."
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DRH1940 Offline OP
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Thanks to you both for your advice and information.

I've been unable to find the wedge spacers for the upper ball joints. Can either of you tell me who's got 'em?

I've only played with a few Fords, after the flat-head era. My first car was a 5 year old '51 Ford with a FH six. I paid $450. for it. Great car!

Historically, I've been a Chevy man (mostly with sixes and Chevy II - Mercruiser 4-bangers) But, I loved the looks of the Rancheros and figured learning the idiosyncrasies of the Fords will keep me busy for a while!


Last edited by DRH1940; 08/04/10 10:39 PM.
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http://www.drgas.com/pro_motorsports.htm

My front end setup was canadian mustang upper and lower control arms with nylon bushings (I don't use polyurethane), 1" drop springs and 1" swaybar from the same. Negative wedge, bumpsteer eliminators and camber adjusters from drgas, baer adjustable outer tie rod ends & sleeves, 13" baer "track" front brakes, and global west trailing arms. The only other thing you should get that I didn't is these ball bearing spring perches: http://www.mustangdepot.com/OnLineCatalog/Suspension/spring-perches.htm - these make a huge difference, they just weren't commercially produced when I was putting together my car and when I redo it I'm going with a martz racing complete front chassis.

That would be the ultimate stock-type front suspension for a falcon. The only other upgrade you might want to consider is a higher ratio steering box, but if you put on the drgas bumpsteer corrector kit, it also quickens the ratio and I thought it was plenty responsive.


"The first rule of overkill: You can never have too much overkill."
"Overkill is underrated."
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DRH1940 Offline OP
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Thanx, Rick....I'm learning a little at a time!


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