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#60046 08/25/10 10:57 PM
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DougE Offline OP
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I didn't like the look of the bolts in the (as yet unpainted) frame of my truck after having to relocate some cross-members. Since frames of this vintage ('69) are all riveted, I decided to try my hand at riveting the attachments:



After considerable research I found that Fastenal will sell small quantities of solid rivets, and I had to make a tool to form the head. I bucked the factory head of the rivet with a steel plate scooped out to conform to the head, and a porta-power. The upset die is just an old bolt hand ground out to create a shape, and the rivets had to be heated multiple times with a torch to soften enough for my little air hammer to create the shape.

Had I thought to buy rivets before drilling out the holes to accommodate oversized bolts, it would have wound up looking quite factory.


Next question:

I've thought of using Chassis-Saver, and also of using a epoxy primer and top coat, even though spraying will be very awkward for me; not much garage space. I can't afford to send it out for blasting, so it will have to be hand-cleaned.

Recommendations?

Last edited by DougE; 08/25/10 10:59 PM.
DougE #60157 09/01/10 10:58 AM
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POR-15 is your friend. I used a wire wheel on a grinder to remove the gunge, then followed the directions.


"The first rule of overkill: You can never have too much overkill."
"Overkill is underrated."
56er #60365 09/09/10 04:13 AM
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For a first attempt they look exceptional. \:\)

X2 on the POR 15.

Get it in pints at the most.

Have you considered some of the home remedies for rust (molases bath, citiric acid wash, Washing soda and electricity )?

Several thread on the interwebs about all those and while time consuming (you have to let any of them soak a while) they let you do other things while they work on removing the rust.

Wire wheel if no other way, just make sure you have a good dust mask, I made that mistake, once. Coughed up rust colored crud for a month. \:\(


My, what a steep learning curve. Erik II#5155
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DougE Offline OP
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I spent about a day and a half with a variety of wire wheels and sander discs; I could easily remove the light rust and usually the original paint. What I couldn't do was get into all of the nooks and crannies, and couldn't leave any significant tooth on the steel. Reluctantly, due to schedule and funding limitations, I've concluded that I'll need to take it to a sandblasting facility. The chassis is thus sidelined awaiting said funding. I've since started destroy... er, fixing the cab.

After flip-flopping for months, I broke down and purchased paint; I chose an epoxy primer and urethane single-step topcoat. Was it the right choice? I don't know; ask me in a few weeks after painting, and then ask me again in 15 years or so. Certain folk were adamant recommending something like POR-15; others in regard to the epoxy primer/top coat approach, but no real consensus. Just a mental coin flip; no real rationale for the choice.

Last edited by DougE; 09/09/10 09:39 PM.
DougE #60394 09/10/10 04:25 AM
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If you are willing to do the prep (ie sand blast, as you've chosen) there is a possible advantage to the epoxy and urethane on a chassis.

For ease of prep and application the POR 15 beats it (use their wash and "metal ready" prep).

Glad to hear you have a plan though, let us know how it turns out. \:\)

If taken care of (ie not driven at bonneville and neglected afterwards) both should be fine in 15+ years from now, if properly applied.


My, what a steep learning curve. Erik II#5155
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check out kbs coatings this is what I am currently using on my 84 C10 chassis. I am very pleased with the results so far

Keeter66 #60397 09/10/10 07:42 AM
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