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Joined: Sep 2007
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Looking for recommendations on 250 build-up

Original motor in the hooptey is starting to get long in the tooth, and so I'm going to start saving my pennies for a replacement. I'm looking for "spec" recommendations as well as shop recommendations and price I might expect to pay. I want to do the motor build, then swap it in as a "mostly long block"... so will need a second motor to start with.

Vehicle is a '69 C10 that's 3860#, with a TH350 (though I am considering a 2004R swap at time of motor swap), rearend is PROBABLY 3.08 or 3.73 (rear was snagged from a V8-powered '71 C10... available gears for that year were as above, plus 4.11... I know it's not 4.11 because that's what I swapped out, and it goes down the highway faster than it did with original rear). I have power brakes.

Truck is a driver, mostly around town with some "going to a show" highway drives. I want it to have some decent torque, but want it to run very reliably.

Carb REQUIREMENT is a Rochester 2GC with an approx 3" spacer under it this is a physical requirement for the vehicle... if you've seen the truck, you understand.). Intake is a Clifford. Exhaust are modified Clifford. Water pump is a modified unit. Ignition is GM HEI w/vac advance. I have all these pieces on the running motor now, and can swap these over when I do the new motor installation.

What kind of "spec" items should I be doing here? Lump or other head work? Cam? Valves? Pistons (and bore, etc.)? Assuming crank work is required, is there any value in adding some displacement by stroking it?

Also, are there any "goodies" that might be worth doing? Oiling mods (I think I saw some of these from MrHotrod6)? Gear drive (if only for the novelty/noise??)? What else?

Any recommendations on who to go to for this work? I'm in Norcal, but certainly could ship the finished motor to me from wherever, if necessary.

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Tlowe has some good info on a "Spec" engine, he can tell you how much power it should make. What compression to run per camshaft used.

Mike Kirby, can set you up with what ever you want.
http://www.sissellautomotive.com/

Mike Barile http://www.ebay.com/itm/194-230-250-292-...0f1a774&vxp=mtr has parts, cyl heads etc for your inline needs.

Depending on how tall your rear tires are will let us get an idea of your final drive should be.

Head work is where most of all your power is going to come from.
If you want a lot of power from your six, the cyl head work is where you do not want to skimp on.
Lumps, bigger valves, performance valve job all play an important roll.

You need to bump up the compression a bit if you are going to run a bigger camshaft.

Go w/a minimum overbore on the pistons, it's not like it's going to be a day & night difference betwwen a .030" overbore to a .060" overbore.
Now a 4" inch bore, now you talking, but, that is not recommended.

I always wanted to run a 3.75" stroke. Need a custom crank & that will cost a lot.

You can turn down a 292 crank, but that's a lot of work.
strokersix https://www.inliners.org/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showprofile&User=4995
did this recently.

If you want a torquey engine & can fit a 292 into your engine compartment, that would be a better choice & can make more power up to a point, depends on how much you want to spend & how fast you want to spin the engine.

You can do the oiling mods, buy Leos book & learn a lot.
http://www.amazon.com/Chevrolet-Inline-S...=inline+6+power

Your engine is already gear drive.

And I'll get the jump on efi diy, you can always install a 4.2 trailblazer inline 6 engine & trans combo. \:D

MBHD


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Thanks, Hank. I've worn the covers off of Leo's book over the years. Unfortunately, due to health issues, I'm not able to take on this project with my own hands... so am going to have to find someone to build the motor, and then find somebody to swap it it.

There are some things on the truck that cannot easily change that necessitate I go with a 250 (rather than 292 or 4.2). And I'm not looking for monster power... I've been reasonably satisfied with the 115hp-or-less-due-to-old-age. It's just starting to fall down on power enough that I'm having trouble getting over a hill near the house, and it will burn a little oil at highway speed (not "smog-up-the-roadway" burn, but enough that I have to top it off from time to time) \:\(

I'll revisit some of the other threads that have been posted over the years, and check with the people you mentioned above.

Oh, and tires are 27" tall.

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I believe any competent engine rebuilding shop should be able to help you out.

It's not like the 6 cyl is any different than building most standard engines.

Just need to check for clearances, basic blueprinting skills.

And since you are looking to make monster power, there is more leeway in building a almost standard engine.

Bump up the compression a bit, a mild cam, & mild head work & it sounds like that will good for you.



MBHD


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I can build one for you. Got a cast piston shortblock ready to roll. Can also do one with forged pistons.
Head, would recommend a unit with 1.84/1.6 valves. Clifford 270 cam has a nice sound and plenty of tq.
I will have a vid soon of my wagon with this setup.


Inliner Member 1716
65 Chevelle Wagon and 41 Hudson Pickup
Information and parts www.12bolt.com


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