Inliners International Forums General Discussion Engines help please - does this head match this block?

OK, new member here so I'll give a short intro. I just inherited a 49 Chevy 2dr deluxe all original but needs resto. Don't really wanna fool with the 216 for this car although it will probably stay in the shed for awhile. Looking at finding a 235 to drop right in and have done all that research. \

I have found a 235 in a rolling chassis of a 53 truck - owner says it is a 54 engine that was put in by PO. PO "says" 45K original no rebuild. Haven't gone to look at it yet but I am of course skeptical about that and not sure if the head matches the engine numbers.

engine casting #3836233 - which I find to be a 4-1-56 engine
head casting #3835913 - can't determine if this is correct or should have been 848 head.

Just trying to figure out if this would have been correct head for this block, or if that will also help me determine if there for sure has been a rebuild. since he seems to think it's an original mile engine, he wants too much for it to start with.

any help would be greatly appreciated. wondering if this would have been a car or truck engine originally too.

Yes, that is a correct cylinder head casting number for a 1955-57
Chevy 235 cu.in. engine. I currently have two. The engine casting number also covers the range of 1955-57 235 cu. in. engines. Best I can tell you if the current owner won't pull the cylinder head for a look inside is to hear it run. It should sound strong and rev up easily if all adjustments are current. Best of luck.

Fast,

Sounds like great fun, I'm working on a '50 chevy 2 door deluxe and am putting a 235 in it (for now) I personally own a '54 engine with the 5913 head and another '54 engine with a 848 head, both of which are original head mated to original engine.

I have not been using engine casting numbers to determine the date of manufacture but rather the date code.

The one with 848 head came out of a truck, I do not know about the other engine.

Hope that helps, good luck

Ted

Greetings . . .

I'd be interested in the Date code and Serial # stamped on the pad by the dizzy.

Your combination of numbers seems a bit unique to me. The head casting #3835913 was used on '54 and early '55 engines. It uses the old style 'brass tube' temperature sending unit.

As a '54 or early '55 I would expect it be mated to a #3733949 block. Instead you have a '55-to-April'56 block (#3836233) - as your research has found.

The date and serial will tell the story about the block.

Not sure if it will tell us why they are together.

regards,
stock49

it'll be saturday or sunday before I can go look - but I will look for the serial number pad. i had asked for a pic of that too but i didn't get it. the others were a lil fuzzy so not sure he could've gotten a decent one anyway. i really don't need the whole chassis, hoping he will part out the engine.

kinda trying to figure out if i can also put one of the OD units behind the 3 speed. would be fine with a toggle switch setup for it. i just love the tube for the shifter on top of the column, i hate to get rid of it for an aftermarket column.

this car will get an IFS/disc front suspension and probably an open driveline with rear spring update. other wise it will be pretty stock looking. pondering gloss versus flat black, the wife doesn't yet appreciate the flat black rod look with some wide whites - gotta get her to some rod shows! but i wanna drive it, so OD and AC along with a 12volt conversion will be necessities (gets hot down here in Bama during summer)!

Hi 49Fast . . . my ride is the same . . . nice choice!

And I too like the three-on-the-tree and the torque tube drive line. Mechanical ODs that mate up are rare. Truckstell is what to look for. If you are switching to an open drive line the stock gear box will probably have to go as well. In the stock setup the Spicer universal joint is lubricated by the same gear oil supplied to the tranny case . . . it collects in the ball and eventually drains into the rear axle by design. Not sure if a tighter seal can be fitted.

Personally, I am sticking with the 216, 6 volt electrics, worm-gear-sector-pit-man-arm steering and Huck brakes . . . for me it wouldn't be '49 without them.

As for AC mine has 460 air: open two wings; two windows and go 60! Works quite well in Ohio.

regards,
stock49

'Way more than 50 years ago, in Texas, my father -- who sold and serviced some of the earliest "aftermarket" auto air conditioning -- hung a Frigiking under-dash unit in a 1940 Chevrolet four-door that he had rebuilt. He adapted the brackets to fit a Tecumseh compressor on the 216 and set the evaporator and fan box in the center of the dashboard where the radio had been. It made cold air wonderfully well on six volts, and the old 216 never complained about the added load.

i never have wanted any air conditioning myself, but many folk now can't live without 12 months of winter, in the house, in the workplace, and in the car. In the pneumonia hole i inhabit at work, it starts at 64 degrees every morning; by noon it's up to 66, and i get in the car and drive to the post office, so i can thaw.

In Alabama the desire for the revolving blades moving the freezing air makes somewhat more sense than in other places. Wherever i drive, Stock49's "4-60" rule works for me -- especially in a vehicle built for performance.

God's Peace to you.

d
Inliner #1450