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Well i picked up my 1970 250ci / Sag 3 spd today. Along wth an Offy 4bbl Intake. The engine needs a good degreasing and spray. Along with all the gaskets replaced,t-stat,water pump,front seal, ect... just to avoid changing them when its in the car. It turns over freely by hand and I can feel the compression so that all seems good. Just trying to decide on a color. Im not going with orange, maybe Mopar Turquoise, Pontiac Metallic Blue, or Ford Green... 250ci #1 250ci #2 250ci #3 250ci #4 Offenhauser Intake
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Cool looks good, brand new intake?
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Yeah its new, but I bought it locally from a guy for half the price of a new one. I just need a flexplate and a 2bbl now.
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Originally posted by RevOD: Just trying to decide on a color. Im not going with orange, maybe Mopar Turquoise, Pontiac Metallic Blue, or Ford Green... Hey,ChevyII man,how about some Chevrolet "Blue Flame" blue for that six?
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If you have a four barrel adaptor, maybe run a four barrel carb? Edelbrock carbs work good & they are not high maintenance. Just a couple cents.
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The smallerst Eddie I can find is a 500cfm. Wouldent that be a bit much for a stock 250? I was thinking either a H/W 5200 or a 350cfm Holley 2bbl. The HW5200 im still unsure of how I would attach my TV cable to it. A regular holley would be an easy swap.
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Holly made a 500 2 bbl cfm & that is fine. There were two size dual jets carbs GM put on cars I believe they were a 350 cfm & a 500 CFM? Maybe someone else here knows for sure? The old circle track guys used the larger ones I am pretty sure they were 500CFM ,because after a while they were hard to find so they changed the rule book stating they could run a 500 CFM 2 bbl Holly. Besides you can always disconnect the secondaries & only run on the primary's. Later, if you hop it up a bit you can hook back up the secondaries. 500 CFM is not too big far a stocker, it will work OK.Just run it on the primaries. Holly's seem, for the most part need some attention @ some time or another. The Eddlebrocks ,you just hop in & drive, no worry's.
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Well I really like the uniqueness of the 5200. I alredy have a 750cfm dp I could just run on the primaries lol. Im gonna call Langdon tomorrow and possibly end up with the Holley/Weber
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O, the Holly/Webber progresive two bbl, those are good carbs also, better gas milage.
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yeah assuming i can mount the carb linkage front to back I should have no issues with linkage.
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Holley also has a 350 2bbl a 390 4bbl 450 4bbl I have ran holleys for Manyyyyyyyyyyyyy years and never had a issue with them. even ran a 600 on a offey right out the box on a 250 yeah it may have a touch rich lol But hey I was giving 16-18 city with a 4speed M20. I never cried when standing be hind it,Sooooo it couldn't have been to rich rofl.
Larry/Twisted6 [oooooo] Adding CFM adds boost God doesn't like ugly.
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Yeah I was looking at the 350 2bbl. IF I could find one for a decent price I have everything I need to tune holleys. Just the idea of tha 5200 seems cool and the price from Tom you cant beat.
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Well i got her cleaned up and starting laying soe paint on her. I went with GM Apline Green
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Im sure the HW5200 is great and thats why the inliner shops make and sell adapters to run it.I am just not sure I like the "hotwater choke" they run.(biased Holley fan)
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That color would look good with so chrome covers on the side and top! Great choice.... where are you at in Missouri? Joe
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No Chrome lol.... heres a better pic showing the color. I am in Fenton MO.
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I was able to get the motor off the picker and onto a stand today. I pulled the pan and rocker cover off to get cleaned up. While its off I plan on replacing the oil pump and having the pickup tube hot tanked.
I pulled the Exhaust manifold off to get the exhaust studs replaced and have it resurfaced. Im also having a friend of mine grove and cut a 6in SBC balancer to replace the stock one thats on there.
A new water pump is on order so I should have most of the engine bolted up and ready to go. Now if I could just fine some 6cyl Frame mounts...
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Don't forget to drill & tap the crankshaft for a balancer bolt install.
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As long as the pan is off, you should check the rod bearings & replace if worn etc. Good luck.
John M., I.I. #3370
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Oddly enough the crank is alredy tapped. As for the bearings I pulled a few and they look great.
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After your get the pick up tube back, suggest you give it a good rinse/brush with lacquer thinner - you'll be amazed at how much gunk is left over from the hot tank.
Is the rear main seal ok?
51 GMC 4.2 turbo Can't solved today's problems using the same technology/thinking that created them
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Hard to tell, but that thing was leaking oil from everywhere. I assume you can chang eit without removing the crank just pulling the rear main. What are the torque specs for the rear main once it goes back on?
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Well The rear main is changed, new oil pump is in and primed, as well as a new waterpump. Tomorrow the timing cover gets cleaned up and painted and then stuck back on. Luckilly the stck nylon cam gear looks in great shape.
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The cam gear is a Fiber gear. And if in dout about the Miles on the Motor I'd change it just for GP.
Larry/Twisted6 [oooooo] Adding CFM adds boost God doesn't like ugly.
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Nah no doubut on the miles.... Ill eventually put a cam in it so i can change it then.
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If you go to the Alum Gear Set Be SURE to HEAT The Cam gear Before Pressing it on.
Larry/Twisted6 [oooooo] Adding CFM adds boost God doesn't like ugly.
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Not to change the subject but how do you load pics in your posts like that?
Martin
Martin '64 Nova wagon '69 C10
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Dear Martin; Lorin (the Webmaster) will know. When you change your cam & add the aluminum gear change the crank gear too. A new (aluminum) gear with a used (steel) one sometimes will whine. Good luck.
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Martin, I only learned recently to post pictures here and so I can help. I opened a free account at: http://photobucket.com Then I upload the desired pics to Photobucket website (I usually reduce their size). When I’m writing a post, I simply copy the “image address” from the picture I want to post (I choose the “Img” option) and paste it in the message. I suggest clicking “Preview Post” to confirm everything is OK. Example: is actually “{IMG}http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n61/rofc/I-6GM250.jpg {IMG
Keep it INLINE! Early 173" FED (still motorless) Ricardo I.I.# 4784
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Martin '64 Nova wagon '69 C10
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timing gears Come as a Matched Set. So Use them as they come. Miss matching will do more then just make them Whine. I know been there done that Because of some silly A** shop who had no clue. and I Ripped a set apart @5000 bent up all exhaust valves and 7 push rods.And a few intakes.
It is also in one's best interest to mech. fasten the cam gear when in Dout. BUT at the VERY LEAST BE SURE the GEAR has been HEATED before installing.!!!
Larry/Twisted6 [oooooo] Adding CFM adds boost God doesn't like ugly.
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How high up in the RP band are the fiber sets good for?
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The fiber & plastic cam gears were used to elimate the "noise factor" and are designed for that engine's 'normal' operating limits.
In commercial use or in Hot Rods you should use the aluminum ones as their stromger and last longer.
The 70s era SBC timing set (plastic)would die @ 70-90,000 miles where the 1960 version rarely failed long after 100,000. This too encouraged sales due to the SMOG restrictions then.
There often sold in sets which is to incourage installing both together with "unworn teeth" so they will run quietly.
They don't need to be from the same MFG, just unworn etc.
John M., I.I. #3370
"There are no shortcuts to any place worth going". -Anon
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Who sells the Aluminum Sets
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Cloyes makes them. Sissells stocks them, & sells them I believe.http://www.sissellsautomotive.com/ Auto parts stores should be able to order them.
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Yep they are easy to find and fairly inexpensive. According to Leo Santucci all 292 truck engines (post 1966)ran the aluminum gear so just order a set for a 292 truck.
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I had the stock phenolic gear give out on me coming out of a tunnel in Virginia several years ago('70 C-20 with a 80k mls. 250ci),not a good feeling.The Al gears could be bought at any of the chain auto parts stores for around $20.00+/-.
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Ok cool ill look into changing those when I do a cam change. For now ill stick to the stocker sicne thats what im doing with it. I got the oil pump and clean pickup tube in. Also got the front cover painted and bolted up with a new front seal. Waiting on my SBC balancer to arrive which is cut and grooved.
Frame mounts should be heere shortly and When Langdon get back from vacation im ordering my hw 5200.
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Making progress with the motor. New oil pump, clean pickup and fresh gaskets.
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Got some more stuff on, move my 1 wire 100amp alt over from my v8 and got the pully painted and installed. Also got the exhaust manifold sprayed up with some high temp exhaust paint and almost ready to put on after final modifications are done to the intake.
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