Inliners International Forums General Discussion Engines 57 235 Head Cracked?

I have a rebuilt 57 235 and I'm getting alot of water built up on the inside of my aluminum valve cover. I tasted it and it tastes like coolant. My oil is not milky except on the inside of the valve cover. Compression is good in all cylinders, runs great, no temperature or oil pressure problems. Head had new seats, valves and valve guides installed and was supposed to be checked for cracks. I did not have this water problem before I rebuilt the engine. Any ideas on what the problem could be and what a fix could be?

Dear Ken;

Try 're-torquing' the head.

Be sure to start with the center bolt & work outward. If you have a Motors Manual it will show a 'sequence' but It's common sense.

Do it cold & then adjust your valves (hot).

Good luck.

Thanks I will try retorquing the head. The head was milled and the block decked but I'm not sure how much. Could the head bolts be a little too long now? Can I put washers on them?

Ken, you can get a dye to mix with your anti freeze, to see if there is a leak in your cooling system, too.

your problem could also be improper crankcase ventilation. if you aren't driving your vehicle enough to get rid of the moisture....especially when the weather's cool....AND you don't have enough ventilation (draft tube, or PCV valve) that may be your problem.

K;

The bolts break when they 'bottom out', so that shouldn't be a problem.

Dennis mentioned condensation. You said it (moisture) wasn't there before and that doesn't smell like coolant.

There's a "block check" to try if this isn't it etc.

One thing at a time.

I do not have a down tube or a PCV on this engine. It did have a PCV valve at one time. I may have to fix that. The condensation on the inside of the valve cover does taste like coolant and leaves a very light green tint on the inside of the valve cover. I will re-torque the head and try the dye. I do have a slight leak in the radiator but I didn't think the two issues could be related. Which is better way to go, the down tube or the PCV valve?

Ken, on two recent rebuilds of older engines, i used a PCV valve and vented oil filler caps. one was a '52 Ford six and the other was a '54 Chevy 235. I used grommets and PCV valves for the newer Chevy sixes in both and got rid of the old draft tubes. At 5,000 miles, i adjusted the valves on the chevy and there was no sign of condensation, or sludge in the valve cover. There's gotta be a way to draw out that moisture! I really hope that's the only problem you have. Nothing's worse than having to go back into a freshly built engine!

I hope that is all it is too. My only worry is that the water tastes like the coolant. I'm concerned there is a crack in the head and the coolant is somehow ending up on the inside wall of my valve cover. The valve cover does have a breather on it but that sounds like it is not enough ventalation.

Actually I did have a PCV valve before I rebuilt the engine. I will get a grommet and a PCV valve and install them.

Where can I get the dye to test for a leak?

K;

If you have the stock draft tube, just put it in and a breather cap on the valve cover.

It may be condensation after all.

PVC is no longer required for SMOG tests and It's one less hose to 'flop around' & leak.

Good luck.

Dennis and John,
Thanks for your advice. Much appreciated.

Dennis and John,
Thanks for your advice. Much appreciated.