Inliners International Forums General Discussion Engines timing problem??

I completed a 230 rebuild on my 64 chevelle.
Had the block and crank rods and piston
work done at a local machine shop. The head
was rebuilt also. Bought a stock cam and lifters
from a napa store. Cam gear and crank gear or dot to dot. With the plugs out and the valves
adjusted to zero lash + 1 full turn the engine
spins freely. Put #1 plug in and the engine is locked. The starter cant spin the flexplate.
The valves were adjusted per a chilton manual.
balancer to timing tab #1 piston tdc rotor
pointing to #1 cap tower and points open. I
went 2 full turns on the lash and the engine will spin with all 6 plugs in but wont fire.
I feel this is to tight for the valve lash.
Did I get a bad set of lifters or maybe a bad cam? any thoughts??

Double check to make sure you have power to the coil and the dist.You can pull all the plugs lay them on the valve cover and have someone watch as you crank the motor over to see if the plugs are firing. Then reinstall. And make sure your carb has fuel in it.A mech fuel pump takes much longger to prime the carb then a elec. pump.

Ok, don't understand that you stated you adjusted to zero lash then one full turn,,, then you stated you went two full turns after zero lash???

Two full turns is too much if thats where you left it?

You installed the # 1 plug & then it's locked up (won't turn over) Wrong plug, too long, hitting the piston?
After you pulled the #1 plug back out ,,was the ground smashed close,(no gap in the plug)

MBHD

That was my first thought to Hank.But then he said he had it turning over with all 6 plugs in
but not firing.??????
But yes i fhe went to full turns,it could be to much and holding the valve open??? more food for thought.

Yes; only 1 turn is required.

How would one plug 'lock it up'?? Could he have some "long reach" plugs that are hitting something??

If not; I would start over on the valve adjustment. Just get them all at 'zero" & see how it spins.

Good luck.

double check to be sure you have the correct sparplug. as said earlier they could be a long reach type and hitting the piston. back off the lash and start over. each cylinder has to be adjusted while the particular cyl's valves are both closed. then set the lash. it will take awhile but is worth the effort to do it properly. tom

Good morning gents; Here's the update. Went
out this morning, started from scratch .
Balancer mark to timing tab mark right on
at 4b. Watched for #1 intake to close #1 piston
at top of travel. Rotor pointing to #1 on the
cap. Grounded #1 plug to block. Turned dizzy
until plug grounded. Tightened dizzy. Adjusted
#1 valves zero lash 1 full turn. Did all 6 in this manner. Engine will spin but am getting backfire through carb. Plugs or acr44xls they
or not hitting pistons. Good fuel pressure
primed engine before I started. Heck I primed this at least 4 time in the past week. I still
can't figure out why the motor wouldn't spin
with plugs installed. Now it spins. Backfiring
can mean an open intake valve correct? I posted
a question a while back pertaining to a new cam gear that I felt was mismarked by a tooth. This
was mating the new cam gear to the old gear.
Could this be my problem? The upside is that
it's a very cool sunday morning here in Pa.
Yesterday was pretty hot.

I take you installed your dizzy on the compression stroke, TDC, # 1?

MBHD

Good call Hank, that's probably it.

when mine did that(shot fire out the carb) i had the timing adjustment off. i have since got a better method for setting the timing on a engine startup.

Were the lifters full of oil when attempting to establish zero lash? It is pretty easy to collapse an empty lifter so the plunger is bottomed. Then if you go one more turn after that the valves are all off their seats by at least 1/16 inch instead of closed tight.

If the intake valve was just closing on #1, you were nowhere near TDC on #1, you were at BDC #1 at the beginning of the compression stroke. #6 would have been starting its exhaust stroke. Something is rotten in Norristown.

You did wire the dist useing proper rotation direction, had a friend work on a six for days before he realized he had the spark plugs wired for the reverse rotation.

raceitch ,,,,
so,,, what's the latest?
Make any improvements?
MBHD

I pulled the cam last nite. The front clip is off the car so it makes things a little easier.
Thursday nite I disconnected the flexplate from the convertor removed the dizzy, and it still
struggled to turnover. Removed the pushrods and lifters and it spun like crazy. It is a new stock
cam from napa. I cant shake the feeling that
the cam gear is mismarked throwing the valve
assembly out of phase. Gonna try a new GM gear
from a chevy dealer. Lifters are primed and
the wiring is correct By wednesday I.ll find out.
Thanks all for the support.
Rich

Dear Rich;

You & Bald Eagle are probably right. Compare your cam & gear to one you know is right, (ran in an engine) etc.

NAPA gets a lot of parts made "off shore" and often counterfeit or with low QC etc.

Good luck.

PS: My money's on the cam notch.

If it is a ALUM GEAR BE SURE TO HEAT IT. before installing it.

It finally fired.The cam gear was a tooth off.
Other issues I encountered were 9 lifters
that were rock solid. I couldn't get them to
budge. Took them back and hand picked ones
that had some deflection. About 1/8 inch.
Didn't want to start at first, backfiring thru the carb. Restabbed the distributor turned
it slightly and it roared to life. Timing's
still needs some attention but even with the
muffler off it felt good to hear that son of a gun light up. I bought this chevelle when I
was 19. Went on my honeymoon in it. Also bought my
Oldest daughter home from the hospital after she was born. She turned 31 august 4th. My wife
and I been married 36 years. This convertible
is our time to relive our youth. Thanks to everyone for there support and help.
Rich 64