Inliners International Forums General Discussion Drive Train six speed conversion(?) help

just planning my next project.
already got a 1960 Chevy short box. planning on a very strong 292 (possible turbo and fuel injection). wanting to know if a six speed manual out of say a corvette or camaro will ever fit to the engine.
I know it is a longshot, and will be expensive, but the truck, Im hoping, at least in my mind will a be a rolling masterpiece.

It may sound silly but it is my dream. Any help would be awesome,

thanks

Do a Google search on T56 conversions. Sallee Chevrolet sells a conversion from T5 to T56.

4.11s would give a lot better accelleration and still allow the 100 MPH speed with a t56.

way back when, I built and drag raced a Triumph twin. Long stroke, lots of torque, and a real broad power band. I installed a close ratio 4sp and went slower that using 2nd, 3rd and 4th in a std ratio gearbox. Seems that an engine with a broad power band likes to use that power band to accelerate. The close ratio gearbox didn't let the rpms drop enough.
Just a little something to think about as you plan your dream vehicle.

Jim

Jim,

I had the experience of owning a Muncie M22 4 speed ("Rockcrusher", as it's commonly known) in a 64 fleetside with a 350. The 2.20 ratio first gear makes for a real short transition between shifts. If you wound out 1st gear, then second was almost done. You'd be in second gear only for a few seconds before going to third; and the same from third to fourth. In fact, when winding up first to near max rpms, you'd do much better (from a getting up to speed standpoint) to just go to third then fourth. Then again this tranny was built for stoplight-to-stoplight streetrods and drag racing.

The tranny I now run has almost the exact opposite problem - too much gearing between shifts. 3.09 first gear; 1.67 second gear; 1.00 third, and 0.73 fourth. So the "rockcrusher" had a 2.20 ratio difference between first and fourth and the new tranny has a 3.36 ratio difference. For street driving the wide ratio is much, much more desirable.

-magic mike-

Mike,

I too had the infamous M-22 in a 1970 Olds Rallye 350. That was a sweet car.I banged a lot of shifts in that car and the tranny never gave me a problem...but I had a Clutch problem. The problem was keeping one for a period of time. After I rebuilt the motor(oil pump failure at 100+mph)I had the 4-bolt motor blueprinted, installed ported and polished LT1 aluminum heads, 478 Isky cam(with a nice lope), Holley 850 double pumper, and set of Hooker Headers with 34" scavenger tips. She ran a clean 13.33's at strip on pump gas and 12.97's with Sonoco 260. All this with Polyglas front tires aired up to 50lbs and a set of Mickey Thompson L-50's out back. Those were the days. Oh yes, it was my daily driver too for 4 years! I was forced to go with a 2300lb pressure plate and that solved the breakage problem butI almost needed knee surgery after 2 weeks of driving that beast. You're correct that the second gear was very short! My LT1 redlined at 6200 and I could get close to 50 mph in 1st. With a 3:90 rear, my top end wasn't much pass 100mph.

My current car has the BW T-5 from a 1983 Z-28.
First gear is short and so is second, but third is longer. In my opinion, if you are not racing and just enjoy the occasional red light start, the T-5 is a very versitile tranny. A S-10 tranny has too high of 1st gear for my taste and a wide ratio compare to the short throw Z-28 version.

SHIFT ON

RapRap
1940 ChoppedChevyCoupe

I had the pleasure of witnessing my brother grenade a borg and warner super t-10, at least that is what I heard it called.
A four speed that was supposedly bullit proof, let me tell you that one was not.
It came with the car that he bought, a 1964 Pontiac Acadian two door hard top. Came with a warmed over 350 and this four speed, when it broke we took it to a friend that owns a transmission shop. When he took it apart, the input shaft came out in pieces, three to be exact. He also took out reverse gear, not entirely sure what happened, but it was funny from my prespective.
That was three years and four motors ago. Now he is running a three speed auto that is built really well. No problems so far, but he does miss the 4 speed.

I have ran all the Muncie Trannys from the M20 M21 & the M22 When it came down to racing I like the M20 better for the 2:42 first gear. I still also have the M21. But I'm looking for a Super T10 with the 2:88 first gear As the T10 with the 3:11 first gear Is a Weak Tranny. And My tranny Tells me It would Not LIve Behind my L6 Not much lonnger then One Take off. He is well aware of What my L6s Have Broke in the Past Includeing Clutchs. I worked with Ram Clutchs for sometime Finding the Right Combo clutch That would Hold & live up behind it. I even Tryed a center force Once and They wouldn't even Back It up.So That is how I got hooked up with Ram. ANd they have been behind me all the way EVEN After Riping apart 3 3000 lbs dyphram clutchs Then my first adjustable which was adjustable from 1800 -2400 lbs. I welded that setup all together. Then The Last one IS still fine and that is adjustable from 2400-2800 lbs and Is adjusted at 2560 lbs.I will start out at that Pressure on this new Motor when I get it finished Here Very soon.

To give you a ruff idea How Torky the last Motor was even after 17yrs of Daily driver to all Out Drags BROKE a Set of 31 splinded Axles. But now has a set of 33 splinded axles. SO we'll find out whats Weak yet in the Twisted6 Once the New motor is installed. }[oooooo]

hello..Larry, have you ever tried the ring that you see on Auto trans to hold your flywheel?

Lee

ps- I use a Sheiffer pressure plate and "special" organic disc and a billet flywheel...as I have also shared, I have a "loose" flywheel setup-this allows no clutch/pressure plate problems or harmonic damper....my "loose" flywheel allows crank to turn high rpm and not have to flex with weight of flywheel and clutch/pressure plate and since there is no weight on front of crank, the crank has less twist.....7.3" rods keep harmonics in check.....

pss-so what do you think Gerry?

hello...I got these from an "old timer" as i refer to here....He has helped me VERY much with my 292 drag truck............he use to run a Chevy 2 with a 292 and manual trans for yrs back in "the day"....he knew Cotton Perry and Glenn Self...what i have is a VERY stout bottom end 292 (cam>>282 @.050 Intake and 282 @.050 exhaust with "special" Lift)with a modified PES Lump Port head I have modified ....

he use to run consistent 10.30's in the 1/4 mile...I have been VERY lucky to find him and the knowledge that i have learned AND paid for...Seems what i have learned that works in this part of the Country-TENN, KY and GA -is different that what i have found in other parts of the country...this just keeps getting more interesting...I have another set of these rods(and pistons) and a 7" set of rods.....

magic mike, you dont like the tranny that you got? I know its the a833, which i also have. Although i havent installed mine yet? Is your truck a 2wd? How much do you think it weighs?

Thanks JT

67chev,

I really like the trans. I don't think there's a better option for a vintage truck than this one. I think of modern trucks and S10s when I think of 5 speeds, and the 3 speed OD (or 4 speed) is really more nostalgic (to me).

This trans case is made of cast aluminum and probably weights less than the Saginaw 4 speed. I'm guessing the weight is around 80 lbs. Maybe less.

It's WELL worth the money. It allows me to turn 2600 rpms at 80 mph in the fast lane on the interstate without having to change the stock rear end. Super sweet!

-magic mike-

BTW my truck is a 1966 2wd, shortbed stepside.

I am going to do a front bearing kit on this tranny and what not. It has oil in it. I have made sure of that, I rarely drive my 67 unfortunatly so it hasnt been front burner. How lunky am I to have came across a a833 with a cast iron case? I know 90% of them didnt. I pulled mine from a 3/4 ton diesel, maybe this has something to do with it or not?

My 67 weighs in the area of 3800 now