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#19691 07/28/05 07:00 PM
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'66 impala wagon pulled hard to driver's side when applying brakes(manual drum),figured it was front right wheel cylinder(line)couldn't get them off.So took to local shop, he agreed with diagnosis and replaced all front lines and wheel cylinders.The problem is, every now and then it will pull left several times then be fine.When i picked car up he told me same thing happened,when he test drove it--but that it would work it's self out(his words) Any ideas,like:could it be something else,thanks

#19692 07/28/05 08:01 PM
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Fluid or grease on the linings on the left is the most likely cause...

Watch it if you're applying the brakes for the first time after a long run... say 20 miles up the freeway and you want to pull up at an exit... give them a precautionary touch first.

#19693 07/28/05 11:21 PM
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by lines do you mean the hoses that go from the frame to the wheel cylinders? if not then replace the hoses. if you have grease on the lineings then clean it off with some break cleaner. if not the linings will glaze over and will not stop right.

#19694 07/29/05 06:39 PM
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the wheel cylinders front,and the two flexible lines,and the metal lines--all replaced in front.Took it out today(daily driver) and immediately it pulled several times,however after that, in an hour and a half of travel,didn't do it again!? chez

#19695 07/29/05 08:57 PM
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Were new brake shoes put on too? Are the primary and secondary shoes in the right positions? Were the drums turned also? I can't imagine a shop not doing that if they renewed the front hydraulics as you mentioned but then again...................

Mike G ( 4355 )


Mike G #4355
#19696 07/29/05 10:18 PM
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in answer to mike,the last post,no, still has old shoes and drums weren't turned.Shoes look good,but now you guys have got me thinking.This weekend will put in new shoes and get drums turned down--tell you what happens,thanks,chez

#19697 07/29/05 10:42 PM
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while you at it replace the rear hose too. if the front one were bad then the back one is either bad or about to go. they only cost $10 to $15. and check out the rear liners too and the parking break cables. on a car that old .

#19698 07/30/05 02:17 PM
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What is 'totaly bizar' here is, that a repair shop would let a customer take a car out W/O the problem being solved, especialy brake work.

This is a potentialy dangerous problem and this car should NOT be driven until this is resolved.

If this guy won't "make it right" then have it towed to another shop!!!

JM., I.I.#3370....

PS: If you work on it yourself you will void any waranty the shop gave.


John M., I.I. #3370

"There are no shortcuts to any place worth going". -Anon
#19699 08/01/05 12:53 PM
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happy to report problem seems solved!Put on new shoes all around,repacked bearings, etc.,did not have time to send out drums for turning yet .Three days now and brakes feel great(hope i didn't just jinx myself,thanks for suggestions,chez

#19700 08/01/05 03:40 PM
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Glad to hear you got it nailed down. A lot of things can get by with so-so repairs but definitely not brakes. Ideally the drums should have been turned but if they aren't out of round or scored or tapered or have any other problems you might get by as is. The big problem is there is no way of seeing any of this by eye.

Out of round drums will make the pedal pulsate under your foot. Taper will make the new shoes wear lop sided as they run against the drum and will effect braking power. Cracks and scores are visible of course. Scores that are within the safe limits of the drum's maximum turning diameter can be turned out. Cracked drums need to be replaced.

Lots of our older cars have 4 wheel drum brakes and they were good in their day but todays cars have at least 2 wheel disc brakes and mostly power assisted. Add anti lock brake systems to that and we are at a big disadvantage in a heavy traffic panic stop. Drum brakes need to be as good as they can possibly be.

Mike G ( 4355 )


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#19701 08/02/05 11:27 AM
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Gentlemen;

Let us not forget that hydralic 'drum brakes' worked just fine (1937-67+) when cars weighed 2-3,000#. \:\)

It wasn't until the late 60s that a better system was put on passsenger cars and this was due to the added weight/horsepower & increased highway speeds on our Interstate system.

Later as Mike points out 'Anti-loc' features came about as the front (disc) were more efficient than the rear (drum) with power assist.

Remember; "The tires stop the vehicle, the brakes only stop the wheels."

John M., #3370....


John M., I.I. #3370

"There are no shortcuts to any place worth going". -Anon
#19702 08/07/05 12:09 PM
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Good point, John, but it's also true that discs are less prone to lockup than drums...

I would also suggest that speeds didn't change much between the fifties and the introduction of the 'double nickel' in the seventies.


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