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Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 7
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Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 7 |
I've read about swapping the T5 into 47-53 trucks. I have a 50 Chev Car. What bellhousing do I have to use? I'm sure I will have floor/tunnel issues. I can do whatever is needed here. Also I expect to have to make up a new rear trans cross member. I'm going to use an open drive line rear end. Just need to know about the bellhousing
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Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 3,332
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You could also give Patrick's a call. This is their business. Good luck.
John M., I.I. #3370
"There are no shortcuts to any place worth going". -Anon
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 306
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For any such mods to your 50 I'd give Buffalo Ent. a call first. He has adapters for some applications that allow keeping your stock bellhousing. His ad is found on this home page.
Jim, I.I. #173 (It's easier to get forgiveness than permission!)
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Joined: Dec 2000
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PS: As I recall the 55-62 passenger car one is the one you want.
John M., I.I. #3370
"There are no shortcuts to any place worth going". -Anon
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Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 239
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i used a 47-53 truck bellhousing in my 50 coupe. i made brackets for the frame to use the truck bellhousing motor mounts. the bellhousing mounts for the car are not meant to hold up the weight of the engine, only to control side to side motion somewhat. the engine & trans. weight is supported by the trans mount & the mounts on the front of the engine. i didn't feel comfortable using this system with the aluminum case & tailhousing on the T5. so i used the truck bellhousing with the more solid mounts. i ground off the bosses for the foot starter but it's still a tight fit. the truck bellhousing is a little bigger allowing a bigger clutch & flywheel setup. ( i used one from 6400 '54 model. 11" clutch. ring gear also matched my starter ) you'll have to modify the original trans mount crossmember. it is a sort of "K-member" type affair which also supports the master cyl. & in turn your brake & clutch pedal. i've seen where alot of street rodders will cut all this out, which looked to me like it would seriously weaken the frame. i also wanted my pedals in the original location so i kept as much of this as possible. i made a new cross piece with some extensions welded on so it would bolt back into the original "K" braces. i also put some bends in it to leave room for the exhaust; very important if you want to lower your car.this also left the rear of the engine & the trans. sitting about 1/2" lower than original, which was fine with the larger bellhousing. i hope this helps & i aplogize if it's more info than you wanted to know! robert
inliner # 3850
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