Inliners International Forums General Discussion Drive Train lowering my '72 C-10

I have a 1972 c-10 8' box with a 250ci
I want to lower it but i dont have to much money only being in high school i had an idea to lower the back by loading it down to the hieght and putting a good size logging chain around the frame and axel for the front i was just going to cut the springs im looking for a 3"/5" drop

any comments or advice would be helpful

it has coils in the back

I know you mentioned money is tight, but my honest advice is to wait till you can do it right. By the time you factor in the problems like replaceing tires because of bad suspention geometry, or damaging the axle tubes, or the way it will probably drive, it is going to be less expensive to take your time and do it right.

chevy 250-6, while I don't understand what you're trying to do with the logging chain or 'loading it down' -it doesn't matter. Don't do it! I recommend that you buy new lowering springs, however I understand what it means to be a poor high school student and the method I describe below has given me and many others very successful results.

Here's how you want to lower it on the cheap:
Get yourself a grinder and a cut-off wheel that fits in it.
Take your front springs off carefully using a jack and make sure you wrap a loose a chain around the spring while you pop the ball joint so that the spring doesn't fly away into your jaw.
After you get the spring out you'll be ready to cut your spring. Generally speaking on these springs, a 1" cut equals 2" in lower ride height so plan carefully. Measure twice or three times and then cut once! You can always cut 1/2" more later if it's still too high, but it's hard to add it, lol! I would recommend no more than 1-1/2" on these springs, anymore and the ride will be unbearable. Also, DO NOT cut these springs with a torch! It will change the spring tension and you could end snapping a spring while doing 70mph down the freeway and that could be bad.
Okay, at this point you've cut the springs using the cut-off wheel and now you can install. Just install in the reverse order and make sure your spring is snug in the cup and centered and then just raise the jack up (keeping a loose chain around the A-arm and through spring again!) and re-attach the ball joint. It's pretty easy to do and you could easily do it in an afternoon. In fact if you only cut it 1" and want to go back after a few weeks and cut another 1/2", it'll take less time.
Once you get the springs re-installed and everything buttoned up, take it to an alignment shop and have it aligned.
Now your ride will be a little stiffer, but definately not like a lowered mini truck or import! In fact, the ride won't be that bad at all. You'll still be able to use your original shocks, but depending on how many miles I'd replace them as well.

The rear springs can't be cut because they have pigtails on both ends, however you can add lowering blocks to these trucks very easily. Just determine the drop you want once the front is done and if you want a 2" drop then just get 3/16" tube steel, 2x2-1/2"(I think the trailing arm is 2-1/2" wide), installing them between the trailing arms and the axle. You'll need to drill holes for the U-bolts and you'll need 2" longer U-bolts, but it's a pretty simple task. Good luck with it.

The best advice is to "leave it alone"!

To do this 'properly' and safely requires special components and professional work in a fully equiped shop.

There's other ways true, but you will lower the value of your truck and perhaps make it unsafe/illegal to operate etc.

Once It's done (either way) It's a bundle of money to put it back too.

Good luck.

I disagree with John and anyone else that says it can't be done safely or properly.

I've done the whole gammit from cutting springs to torching the spring while it's still on the truck to lower it. While I don't recommend torching them, it can be done by an experienced person with good results. It's safer and easier to just take them out and cut them if you can't afford to replace them with lowered springs.

Cutting springs will affect geometry to some degree and you'll get things like 'bump steer', but it's perfectly fine to do a small lowering job of 2" without major adverse effects as long as you get an alignment afterwards. To get more extreme you can get lowering spindles which will help you keep the geometry but give you a lower stance however, if you use both you'll again run into slight bump steer if you hit a speed bump too fast or something similar.

I have 2-1/2" lowering spindles + 2" drop springs in front and 5" drop springs in back. I have a 1-1/4" sway bar in front and a good set of shocks all the way around and my truck handles way better than my Camaro, lol! Occasionally if I hit a speed bump too fast I notice very slight bump steer, but otherwise my truck is perfectly safe in that regard and I've had 0 problems as a result. Feel free to ask any other questions and I'd be happy to assist you.

Sweet truck!!! Yeah using dropped spindles and lowered springs is the way to go. And when you stay away from the monster rim's and super lo-pro tires it really help's avoid the the bad handling and bumpsteer.

I wasn't serious about the chain and weight i just wanted to see the reaction from the guys that do every thing buy the book.

I have springs for the back already but need ideas to do the front
thanks Brad for the help

can you go lower in the back with blocks and springs? I would like the back to be even with the front

Yes and no. You can only go so far before the axle hits the frame. Of course you could do a C-notch, but then your limited funds are in the red. I don't have a C-notch on mine. Not sure if I'll ever do one since it looks good at the ride height.

how much room do you have between the axle and frame with five inch springs
you could also get smaller bump stops or cut the ones on there down

I think I have about 3" right now which allows me to carry a load in the bed. The bump stops have already been cut in half. I have them cut just enough so that the axle will never hit the frame and BANG!

Brad,


I like your truck, lowered is ok, but I'm lookin' to go the other way.(going up? ).....I'm somewhat un conventional desiring to lift a 2WD truck, but the 33" tires I plan on putting on (when I have the $$$$) will look a ton better with a modest lift. I've got time to look into what's "do-able".....won't have $$$ in the budget anytime soon (ha-ha) but just wanted you to know your truck looks cool.
God bless,

Gentlemen;

Please check with your state's Vehicle Code & make sure it allows it etc. A check with the Highway Patrol is a good idea also.

In some States the code leaves it up to the Officer (as to saftey). If one doesn't like your vehicle, It's in the impound yard.

Trucks are designed as commercial vehicles, not "low riders" and if you drive on the freeway your; "asking for trouble" is some areas.

Even Brad admits his has stearing problems, so be crefull.

If you are involved in a collision due to stearing/suspention failure (after modification) It's going to be YOUR FAULT in the eyes of the court.

A small lowering (like Brad's) is probably okay from a practical standpoint. You have to judge if; It's worth the risk for yourself.

Good luck.

Thanks for the compliments guys! I'm always surprised when I hear that because when it was all 1 color and a LWB, nobody even noticed it. I realize that people are looking at the potential in it, but I'm still amazed at how often I get complimented at this 'Frankentruck'!


I would like to clear something up.
Perhaps I didn't explain myself well enough. When I refer to hitting a speed bump too fast, I'm talking about those speed bumps that are about 8" tall and I hit it at about 25-30mph- that's when I notice the truck wants to slightly turn in a different direction other than forward. I think if you guys were to do that to darn near any old car at that speed, you'd experience the same thing. With that definition, 90% of the older vehicles on the road are unsafe- maybe even newer vehicles! Regardless of what Canada does, lowering the vehicle in the states is not against the laws unless the control arms hang lower than the bottom of the rim. Lowering these trucks, if done properly, is perfectly safe and I get bothered when someone says it can't be done safely. I know guys mean well, but IMHO, it's a scare tactic done out of inexperience. I know it can be done safely and properly- I have lot's of experience in this.

Yes, you're absolutely right.