Inliners International Forums General Discussion Hi Performance Hydro-boost system

I was reading about the hydro-boost system and the PCV jar in thetrueslayer's website and found that to be pretty interesting . Would there be any danger in running a hydro-boost system on a high compression engine. I dont remember much about my chemistry class, but would there be a problem with detonation in a high compression engine or a turbocharged engine?

Also, wouldn't the hydrogen going into the engine through the carb trick it into thinking it's air and still squirt the same amount of fuel into the engine? If that is true, then how is gas consumption reduced? i can see how power is gained, but how is gas mileage increased? Im still going to try this out soon hopefully cause im only getting maybe 10 MPG on my 79 250 Caprice, but would like to know that information.

What part of the air cleaner housing do you hook this up to? is it OK to hook it up to the hole where the oil breather cap is hooked and cap the breather off?

Hi Tatao . . .

I read an article Scientific American or Popular Science years ago about these gizmos. From what I recall they were pretty high maintance in terms of consuming parts that are used in the electrolosys process(to crack hydrogen atoms free from their source). I think it was like every other fillup, the electrodes needed to be replaced . . . yikes!

I am no chemistry major, but as I understand it, by introducing hydrogen atoms into the intake stream they actually react with the hyrdocarbons in the fuel. The effect is to lower the boiling point and increase the explosive forces (which for me read 'lower octane rating' but the article didn't specifically say so).

The article talked about retuning the engine after installing the gizmo -- including retarded timing (after TDC!) and leaner carb settings. This is where the fuel economy comes in.

With a higher compression engine I think that you would need even higher octane fuel to avoid detonation. The article talked about guys running additives.

All in all the guys seemed more interested in seeing how much they could get out of gallon fuel -- as opposed to whether the thing was practical or convenient.

regards,
stock49

So the 300% increase in gas mileage mentioned on the article came from retarding the time and a leaner carb setting??? Do you have to re-jet the carb or what to achieve that sort of increase?

So high compression engines need even higher octane fuel than without the hydro-boost or is it the other way around?

OK....some help....i have a bit of info that may help...i have been in contact with some one frome HIMAC where they research high mileage....so i get first hand info on whats best to do and if i have questions i can ask him...."if you raise compression then you produce more nitrousoxides that is a bad pollution that is why they kept compression down"...thats straight from him...u can raise compression with it....but even without the hydrogen u produce more nitrousoxides by raising compression....so if u are already using a higher compression and passing air inspection then u will be fine with the hydrogen.....i dont think there would be a problem with detonation unless the problem was already existant....hydrogen mixes with carbon...the residue thats left from a gasoline burn....and creates water....thats not really a whole lot of water at one time but i think it would work sorta like water injection to a point to make up for the extra burn of the gas mixture...on carburated engines there is no airflow sensor so it doesnt effect that one bit....only on fuel injected engines will it effect anything...i havent looked into a system for fuel injected vehicles but i hear they are a bit more complex....dont bother hooking up the hydrogen to the air filter...it would be better to insert a tee in the PCV hose and share it through that...also dont use a pump since there arent too many that can handle being run dry for any length of time...the plans on the website are from when the guy started and hasnt updated obviously...although bruce at HIMAC keeps me up to date....it is true that the electrodes need to be replaced after 1-2 tanks...but if a tank lasts 2-3 times longer who really cares...it'll cost about $3.00 and 1/2 hour of time max to replace the electrodes and watever else it costs to replace the water/electrolyte mixture....retarding the engine is necessary because with the hydrogen the mixture ignites earlier therefore u need to retard the timing...the carb actually doesnt need to be leaned out....the 300% increase came from use with the pcv gas condensor as well as the hydrogen...hydrogen alone only increases gas mileage about 50%...the pcv also increases about that...mixed together creates a natural gas to further increase mileage...most of the gas that goes into your engine is unburned fuel...doing these projects gives u a very high incresed fuel burn which results in more power and better fuel efficiency....you wont notice the mileage gains so much if u drive lead foot all the time...but no-one does that....hig compressions need high octane fuel period...the hydrogen really wouldnt effect that...in fact it may help...there is no need to rejet to notice increase in mileage...just drive proper....i notice quite the increase in mileage just with my pcv gas condensor...i havent got the hydrogen thing made completely yet...i want to do it right so it's taking some time...the next bit will be about the progress i have gotten with my first bunch of experiments......

dad went on a trip a bit longer than 200 km with my car and came back and used a bit less than 1/4 tank...that was with the PCV jar....i had a mixture of cheap oil and tranny fluid in it at the time....he said he maintained a highway speed of about 120 km/h

next day i put 2 quarts of premium oil in...that rendered my pcv unit useless since it requires the cracking of oil to fuel to work....cheap oil cracks...premium oils have additives to prevent the seperation of the fuel....i went 75-80 km on 1/4 tank...highway speed was about 150 km/h...part of the big loss in mileage was from higher speeds but also due to the oil change....

day after that i had my hydroboost first built....drove 120 km on 1/4 tank...highway speed varied from 120-140 km/h...that was my very first test with the hydrogen system...i am positive that it will be better after my next rebuild...

since then i havent tested anything...just changed my oil to some real cheap stuff...so thats all ready...my hydroboost is almost complete...may take about a week to complete....when the 2 units work together i should see great mileage gains....my firs t hydrogen setup was quickly put together...just 2 electrodes (threaded pipe) and a hole in the lid to keep the jar from imploding....water was tap water and i used epsom salts for the electrolyte....the next setup will be a bit more complex...i might use a thermactor pump to feed air into the jar and use a valve to even out the pressure difference between the intake vacuum and the thermactor pump pressure....also i have electrodes with plates on them as the diagram shows....the water will be diluted waterwith possibly rubbing alchohol and viniger as the electrolyte....i am happy with the results i am getting though....and if u find that the hydro boost isnt doing anthing then its not built right or the water/electrolyte is wrong...if u need more info i will be glad to help...also if i dont know it i can email bruce....hope i covered enough...take care...glad your interested ...i get quite excited about this project...although i have had it almost long enough to just consider it a normal part of my engine now...lol...

My PCV is hooked straight to the intake manifold, not to the carb. Would there be any problems with using either the PCV jar or the hydro-boost system or both someday with it hooked up like that? My carb has I believe 4 vaccum ports. To are capped off, the other one goes to the vaccum advance and the other one to the fuel canister which goes back to the gas tank. The intake has two vaccum sources, one hooked to the PCV and the other one is capped.

I checked my plugs yesterday and they are completely black. The plug on the #6 cyl had oil on its thread, it was the only one like that.

But I´ll see if I can build the PCV jar first maybe this coming week. For the hydro-boost the guy from the article said he got way better results using the washer pump. Can the pump be used if it is hooked up to the manifold vaccum instead of the air filter element? I would think not.

So can I port this system in directly to the intake manifold (offy with 2 progressives on a 235) through the existing vacum port? I am currently running the vacum advance from the carbs, and have the manifold port blocked off.

hmmmm....with 2 progressives the best thing to do would be, if possible to run a tee from the hydrogen hose so it splits of to 2 hoses and attach the hoses one to each carb where u have the vac advance...then hook up the vac advance to the manifold port....i would install a valve between both the main hydrogen hose and the vac advance hose....this allow u to fine tune both vac advance and hydrogen....i would test the vacuum pressure coming from the carbs first though....i know i dont even get 1 inch of pressure from mine at any RPMs....and in that case your vac advance is not doing anything right now....but if u dont have enough vacuum from the carbs then u cant hook up the hydrogen to them....

the only pump that i know of that can run dry forever is the thermactor pump....u could use an adaptor like what i drew so the pump air pushes the hydrogen through...which might work....then u could stick it to your air filter i guess....just hope u dont backfire through the carb...thats a bit bigger explosion than just gas...but wont seriously harm anything...u might need a new filter though..hehe....

How did you build your PCV Jar?? Will PVC pipe and any type of can to hold the BB's get the job done?
I wouldnt want one of the BB's going into the engine.

i sill try to get some pics next week....but pcv is what i used...a 4" diameter x 10" tall...then i capped off the bottem and installed an unscrewable top...very easy stuff to find...then for the bb holder thing...i actually found a good premade type thing from canadian tire...to keep the bbs from going back up into the crankcase or prevent them from falling out and posibly entering the engine...the top and bottom of the bb jar needs to have a screen mesh.....like the kind used on screen doors....use the plastic kind since it wont rust or anything....but it probably doesnt matter with the oil going through....the way its built u wont get bbs into the engine...did u look at the pics on my website??? not the best but it shows sorta what its like....i will get peice by piece photos later though so the complete build of it may be shown...any thing works actually...i read the notes on how one guy made his and i understood the concept and then build my own...which works awesome and looks great in the compartment...people ask me what it is and i tell them...they say it looks like it belongs...but have never seen one before..lol..by the way the site is....

www.geocities.com/davevandrunen/ind3.html

i need to update probably early next month....

Hey guys . . .

I had a physics professor in college who used to say "When in doubt, do the math. And, as a physicist I am always in doubt . . ."

So let's sling some numbers in memory of my physics professor, Clyde Baker.

In order for these gizmos to work to the degree claimed, hydrogen needs to be produced in sufficient volumes to take the place of gasoline.

Now there is plenty of research out there about running cars completely on hydrogen, so lets borrow some 'facts' and see what the numbers say.
http://www.spiritofmaat.com/archive/watercar/h20car2.htm
http://www.eere.energy.gov/hydrogenandfuelcells/fuelcells/pdfs/fcm03r0.pdf

Consider a theoretical 1000cc single cylinder engine. Lets call it an outboard motor setup, where there is constant load and single throttle setting to make the calculations easy.

If we charge this theoretical 1000cc cylinder with gasoline and air so that we would have say 983cc of air and 17cc of gasoline vapor, we can do a comparison.
If we run with this throttle setting at 2000 rpm for 1 hour we would use:
17000 cc/per minute (One such charge every other stroke)
or 17 liters of gasoline vapor/per mintue
at 75:01 vaporization rate that is .22 liters of liquid gasoline per minute or
13.6 liters per hour. Roughly 3.6 gallons per hour . . .
All in all a pretty thirsty little boat!

The source for this data
http://www.eere.energy.gov/hydrogenandfuelcells/fuelcells/pdfs/fcm03r0.pdf
suggests that to run the same engine entirely on hydrogen we would need a 300cc charge of hydrogen per stroke (leaving only 700cc of room for air) so the engine will not be as powerful as it was on gasoline.
So with the same throttle setting at 2000 rpm for 1 hour would use:
300,000cc/per minute (One such charge every other stroke)
or 300 liters of hydrogen gas/per minute
18,000 liters of hyrdrogen gas per hour.

When I ran these numbers this morning over coffee, I thought 'jumpin jerry cans, Batman. How much water would it take to harvest that much hydrogen gas?'

Some research on the web found a source
http://www.eagle-research.com/browngas/whatisbg/whatis2.html
that indicates that 1 liter of water will produce 983 liters of gas. Now the one exam question I did get right in Chemistry was the stoichiometric relationship between hydrogen and oxygen molecules in water (2).
Using this relationship, if one liter of water produces 983 liters of gas -- then 625 liters of it is hydrogen.

So if we take this result back to our bass boat we can estimate that we need:
18,000/625.333 or 28.78 liters of water per hour. Rouhgly 7.6 gallons of water.

Now bear with me through one last set of calculations and you'll see where I am headed.

If we are to increase gas mileage in our bass boat by 40% we need to cut down the amount of gasoline consumed by 6.8cc per powerstroke:
Again with a throttle setting for 2000 rpm that gives us
10200 cc/per minute
or 10.2 liters of vapor/per mintue
at 75:01 vaporization rate that is .136 liters of liquid gasoline per minute or
8.16 liters per hour. Bringing fuel consumption down to roughly 2.27 gallons per hour . . .

But we need to replace the gasoline with hydrogen at 40% of the volume of hydrogen that would used to run the engine entirely on hydrogen (300*40=120):
So with the same throttle setting at 2000 rpm for 1 hour we would use:
120,000cc/per minute (One such charge every other stroke)
or 120 liters of hydrogen gas/per minute
roughly 7,200 liters of hyrdrogen gas per hour.

But to produce this much hydrogen we need about 3 gallons of water:
7,200/625.333 or 11.51 liters . . .

. . .and we need to convert it to hydrogen over the course of 1 hour.

This is where the doubt sets in for me.

First because the articles I've read talk about a gizmo built out of chunk of 4" PVC pipe, 3 or 4 inches tall. This holds 2 liters at most.
They also talk about hooking it up to a 12 volt DC system in a car at 12 or 15 amps -- 144 to 180 Watts.


Well another source I found today suggests that it takes some 79 Kilo Watts to produce 1000 cu feet of hydrogen -- which is roughly 28 liters:
http://www.keelynet.com/energy/garrett.htm

If we take this back to our 1000cc bass boat, we need to produce 7200 liters of hydrogen to improve gasoline economy by 40%. But to do this the guys keelynet suggest that we need more than 20,000 Kilo Watts of electricity to do the job.

A PVC pipe with a 2 liters of water plus some battery acid and 15 amps of DC just doesn't seem to add up . . .

Even if one argues that the gizmo is in fact producing Brown's Gas
http://www.eagle-research.com/browngas/whatisbg/whatis2.html
and that the gizmo is harvesting the pure oxygen as well: http://www.theodoregray.com/PeriodicTable/Stories/001.1/
there's just doesn't seem to be enough of the stuff to make even 40% difference let alone the greater claims. The volumes of hydrogen required are just to large when the engine is a 4 liter I6 or 5.7 liter V8 . . .

BTW this is why cars with hydrogen burning engines are just not around . . . the engineers haven't figured out how to produce or carry around enough of the stuff:
http://www.tipmagazine.com/tip/INPHFA/vol-10/iss-1/p20.html
I don't know about you, but given a choice between carrying 8 liters of gasoline (2+ gallons) versus a 90 liter bottle of hydrogen compressed at 2200 psi . . .
think about that, to carry the equivalent of 15 gallons of gas you would need 7 such hydrogen cylinders . . .
filler up with with hi-test please!

stock49

your using theory which doesnt really work for something like this....another guy tried that at another forum and i gave up on him...but another guy just reported today that he just built one and normally gets 11-17 mpgs and at the moment is getting 22-23 mgs...he still wants to see how long the thing'll work for...but thats cool...usually the guys who use the theory try to use the 'replace the gas with hydrogen' thing which seems to shoot the thing down...not to me though...what u are doing with the hydrogen thing is only adding to whats there...gas energy is 125,000 btu's...hydrogen is 90,000 btu's...one guy tried to use this to say that u need a lot of hydrogen to make up for this...but really he told me that the mixture being produced burns at 215,000 btu's...which is alot more energy than just gas....i hate it when people talk about replacing gas with hydrogen cause this doesnt do that at all...just adds...it does use 15-25 amps of power from the alt...but i have a 450 watt system and the hydrogen running and dont have a problem with the battery dying...the extra power created makes up for loss of power from the alternator....i really dont want to hear any more of replacing the gas with hydrogen cause that just shows me that u dont understand what this hydroboost system really does....it just frustrates me....back to the guy i talked about earlier....he gets 22-23 mpg now as apposed to 11-17...he has only tested 1 tank of gas....but thats still good...and thats only with the hydrogen...i experienced that kind of mileage increase with just the PCV gas condensor....i told him this and suggested he build one...just did that actually so i should get a response tomorow i hope...but if he gets that kind of mileage increase with just his hydrogen which he got the plans from off my site...an i experiece the gains from my PCV system...then theory says we should be able to add the gains together...so i am guessing that with the PCV condensor and hydrogen he could get 30-40 mpgs or more....which would be really sweet...and since i am working on my car and keeping it uninsured so i can afford to work on it i cant test anything myself right now...but i hope to hear more news from the other guy i talked to today...

[There is one thing that was forgotten in this discussion. OXIGEN
If I undersdand it right you also produce Oxigen in this device and that of course ads lots of horses to the engine so you need less gas for a given output.

Frank

I would like to see som better measurements of the fuel consumption than: "he gets 22-23 mpg now as apposed to 11-17...he has only tested 1 tank of gas" and "I drove 357 miles using a minimum 9 gallons of gasoline (my tank registered just below the halfway mark)."

I meant better quality, not better fuel consumption

I found a company that sales a complete setup. It is not only a PCV condenser it is also a fuel vaporizer, I think I order one and give it a try. They have a 60 days money back guaranty so I have nothing to loose. Even a 30% gain is a big money saver with the horrible gas prices here in Germany.

Here is the link: http://www.usitweb.com/FuelSavings/Theory.html

Also check this: http://www.himacresearch.com/books/

The free "Secret Super High Mileage Report" is worth a reading. I learned a awfull lot this afternoon. Let´s se if we can get 100 mpgs from a warmed up 235 ;-)

Frank

I just read everything on the HIMAC site about Bruce McBurney's book and all I can say is WOOOOW

His system definitely sounds more complicated than the one C-Can-D-Luxe is buying. I gotta buy his book as soon as possible. Does he include a sketch or a pic of his system in his book? Has he figured out a way to overcome the damage caused by the fuel additives? Im interested in building and trying to run one of his systems, but they sound complicated and need pics to understand them.

Also, where would the mixture of the two gases go? Directly into the manifold or through a carb? Cause if it goes through a carb to mix with air than the carb would throw in adittional fuel right? So where does that mixture get the air from? Or is it already included?

ok....here goes...

albert: that was only his first test and with only the hydrogennnthats a 25% gain...he told mne he used tap water and baking soda....so he should get a bit better results later....also he should be using a pcv jar cause that would vrey much double or more his mileage...my pcv jar actually doubles my mileage...i think the secret incredient aside from cheap oil is tranny fluid...cause my firs tests had tranny fluid too so it makes me wonder....i did my first trip which was just over 200 km and used 1/4 tank gas...next day i rendered it useless with premium oil...mightas well have disconnected it...nothing else changed and i got my normal mileage back...i used 1/4 tank in 75-80 km....calculated gas mileage would be 31 mpgs with condensor and 11.6 mpg without it...so i have substantial gains here...if i added his gains to mine i should be getting anywhere from 36-44 MPGs...wow...cant wait to get my hydrogen thing working....

C-DAN-D-LUX:
those things do work but also have their downfalls...the jar is smaller than the pcv jar i have made so would require a lot more frequent cleanings...which isnt bad since they dont fill up too quickly...but the copper used to vaporize the extra gas i think gets wropped around the manifold...over time the vibrations will wear down the copper and cause a gas leak right be the manifold...but dont take my word for it...try it and tell us how it works...just keep an eye on the copper....dont want any gas leaks....

Tatao: check out my weppage...page 3...the system used is there but isnt updated so there will be a few things different like not using a pump for the hydrogen but running it through your PCV hose so it enters below the carb...that would make it go directly into your manifold..also a carb doesnt sense extra air and give it extra fuel....throttle bodies and fuel injected vehicles do that...carbs just have different jet stages so when u acellerate u pull the trottle bracket part back which will make the acellerator pump push more fuel in as u push the pedal down more...so it doesnt matter how much air is going through cause it doesnt effect how much gas goes through...although more cold air is very good for power and i would suggest a ram air system...the system is not all that complicated once understoond...and doesnt take all that long to understand either...the page on my wepsite explains everything from how electrolosis works to how to build the system...

here is the like to make things easier...

www.geocities.com/davevandrunen/ind3.html

hope i didnt miss any questions...also hope i gave good enough answers to satisfy..if not i dont mind answering more questions...just dont try to talk about replacing the gas with hydrogen...it actually is possible and has been tested that u can idle the car on the hydrogen fumes and fuel fumes created by both the hydrogen and pcv fuel cracking...also it is possible to achive 100 mpgs but u must sacrifice a lot...the tests on the HIMAC page only achived a top speed of 50 mph and it most likely slowly got to the speed...also he needed to warm up the vehicle with a normal carb untill the vehicle was warm enough to utilise his high mileage thing...but it would still be fun to try..also using only vaporised gas would be a very lean burn and could easily burn your valves or pistons...u could compensate by using water injection and ceramic coated pistons and valves...but i think there is more to it now than there was back then...ocasionally u hear of someone accidently getting a high mileage carb when they buy a vehicle....but u dont really know...but i dont doubt it with the way technology is advacing....everytime the EPA standards call for higher mileage it is always met...but i think that the pcv jar should be the first adition and then the hydroboost...it is explained as a system and works best together...maybe C-DAN-D-LUX can use the hydrogen system with the gizmo he might buy and see how much more mileage he can get...also a high performance coil will give better power and slightly better burn...although mileage improvements on a good electronic high perf ignition system only gives up to 1-3 mpgs more max...the extra power u get over stock is incredible... ys the hydroboos does create both hydrogen and oxygen and more oxygen then hydrogen so that is most likely where the extra power comes from and the better mileage comes from the hydrogen...what i would like to get are emmisions test papers with the hydrogen and pcv jar used...they should be incredible...i dont go in for another month or so...but i will post when i get the results...

I definitely am going to build the PCV jar this week probably out of PVC pipe and the hydro-boost system later on. Once the hydro-boost system is built I wont have to change anything inside the carb right if i hook it up to the top of the air cleaner?
A question about the hydro boost system. Both the negative and the positive carnage bolts have tomato can lids in between them right or is it only the positive one?

i wouldnt stick the hydrogen system to the top of the air cleaner....it has been recommended to me that it would be better to run a tee adaptor before the pcv jar so that it goes in with the oilish fuel...its supposed to mix with the fuel created by the pcv jar and create natural gas...but u dont have to change the carb in any way if u hook it up either way...only one side has the lids...make sure u put lotsa holes in the lids too...but it is the positive that has the lids...the pcv jar is definitely a good project....but u will need to do an oil change unless u already use a very cheap oil...cause good oil doesnt crack into fuel cause of additives...also try a litre of tranny fluid if u want to get bold...cause i did have some tranny fluid in mine when i did the tests...but first just see what straight cheap oil is like...and if your happy with the milage gains then just leave it...

UPDATE FROM THE R&D DEPARTMENT!

Today I made a quick and dirty Hydro Booster just for a test.

No pump, only a rubber hose right in to the aircleaner hose.

I was putting it in my 95 Chrysler Voyager. At steady 70 miles per hour I usualy get 23 mpg with the booster I got 35 mpg

The only problem is that one of the zink coated bolts got eaten away in 2 hours - maybe to much battery acid.

Frank

lol...yea too much acid can do that....thats why i want to try something other than acid....but i'm pleased to hear that u did it...now how bout spontainiously making a pcv jar and hooking that up as well....u may just see 45-50 MPG's.. thats pretty sweet though that u did that...its awesome...

I went to buy the parts for the PCV jar and only found about 1/8 diameter hollow all threaded pipe. 1/8 is the diameter of the hollow part. It's a pipe used for lamps, but that was the largest diameter they had. Do you think that will get the job done or do i need to look somewhere else for a larger diameter one? I looked at where the pcv hooks up to the manifold and the port on the intake looks about the same diameter as the threaded pipe i bought. Since the hose has to be the same d iameter on both ends im thinking this pipe will have to do. I got everything else and am ready to build it hopefully tomorrow. Do you think that pipe is wide enough cause i cant find anything else?
Is there a problem if the pipe going to the intake is only about 1/2 inch away from the one in the center?

u mean the pipe thats used for connecting the hoses too right?? yea thats big enough as long as your hoses fit on it...i used the hollow threaded tubing used for making lamps...its about 1/4 inch....just ask a clerk for the hollow threaded tubing used for making lamps and they can hook u up...got mine at home hardware....almost any large universal building supply store should have these....for the bb holder found a premade set that worked but its basically a mini pvc version of the large pvc jar...with the unscrewable top...only difference is that the bottom is unscrewable and open....i think i will work on some drawings to help u guys out since iwont get around to pics...should have them up this week..hope this helped tatao..

Thanks, you've been of great help. I really appreciate it. For the cannister Im using a can from a kern's juice which is a bit longer than the small v8 juice can, but has the same diameter. So mi PCV jar is probably going to be around 10-12 inches long and 4 inches wide.

excellent....glad i could help....its a good length to have it and a good width...cause thats wut mine is..lol..

sorry its so big...but if i did an url there would probably be some people who wouldnt see it...and where it says sinc coated bbs...its zinc

I built mine almost like yours. The only differences are that the peice of PVC pipe is 7.5 inches, but it ended up being about a foot tall with the caps and everything. It is really heavy too. The cannister is a juice can full of BB's and a couple of nickles and pennys(about 5 in total). Now all i have to do is find a place to mount it and figure out a way to do so. I'll probably have it in the car ready by sunday. Did you put silicon or teflon tape on the thread of the screw cap to seal it completely?

i never used teflon but i did use silicon....makes for a very good seal...u should be able to suck on one tube with the other plugged with a finger and should not notice any leaks...if there are u need more silicon between the areas that connect...if u look at my website again u can see where i have mine mounted...i just quickly fabbed up a piece of steel that bolted to the thermactor pump bracket..since i dont have a thermacor pump its fine...my main page has a few different angle engine shots....but every car has different mounting areas...i fabbed up something out of plywood and angle brackets for my hydroboost unit to sit in...it goes in between the radiator and the grill...barely fits an has to be taken out from the bottom...but its in a very good spot so i'm not complaining...most people dont even notice it till i point it out...so thats a good concealed spot where it wont stick out...what year are those penny's...the newer ones have almost no copper in them....u can actually melt them with a torch....but the old ugly ones that have turned green are awesome copper sources...but it doesnt really matter since there is still some copper and u got plenty of other stuff in there....i ended up spending almost 20.00 on BB's...sure needed a lot..lol...

Can you guys tell a stupid German what BB´s are?

thanks, Frank

LOL....little round ball bearings used in air powered pistols or rifles....

Okay, Here is what I propose:

My 54 Chevrolet truck has about 65k on the 55 235 engine. I should have it driving in about six more weeks. I am going to do 100 miles city, and 100 miles highway, at approx sea level, then add the Hydro-Boost system, taking pictures of the installation, and then repeat the same circuit with the system installed...sound like this will lay the discussion to rest on system viability?

I believe it will for the hydrogen part of it...but what about the hydrogen and PCV...would u be willing to test the Hydrogen alone...then test the hydrogen with the pcv jar?...from what i've read the biggest gains have been done with both hydrogen and pcv jar...hydrogen can vary depending on the car too...but yes that would be excellent if u could do that...thanks...

I can do that, but will need a little tech support as I ramp up

I finally installed my PCV jar in the car. The mounting part was hard. My back hurts. I guess Im getting old and Im only 21. I have to find a better way to mount it though. This is just for the "experimental" phase.
Another problem has arised, but I'll post it on the engines part.
Hydro-boost system goes next.

Checked my mileage and got around 14-15 MPG, that`s a 30%-40% increase in gas mileage. Now i have to do the hydro-boost system and test them together. Hopefully i`ll have the system ready this next week.

awesome...cant wait...just got my car on the road finally after some electrical problems...have a few other important things to fix..but should have m hydroboost installed as well within a week or 2.

I was re-reading the site about the hydro-boost system at
http://www.fortunecity.com/greenfield/bp/16/hboost.htm
and it says "The negative electrode should have numerous bubbles forming and coming to the top from all over the surface area of the tin can lids. This is the Hydrogen gas. The positive electrode will have bubbles forming all along its shaft. This is the Oxygen gas." This sounds like the negative electrode is the one with the can lids and the positive electrode is just the bolt. In the picture however it looks the other way around. So which one is it....the positive or the negative electrode the one that has the can lids with the holes?

my webpage with all that stuff has an update from bruce at HIMAC...its been there for a while...positive goes to the plates....read the update on the wesite...it may help more..its beside the HIMAC research link...

www.geocities.com/davevandrunen/ind3.html

Can I use a plastic jar like the transparent ones used to store water? or do I need to find a material that is more resistant to heat. I dont want to build it out of PVC because it is too heavy. What do you think?

guess I'll give it a try then. hope it doesnt melt or anything like that.