Inliners International Forums General Discussion Hi Performance Hydro-boost system

u trying the PVC? wont melt unless its touching the exhaust manifold...tough stuff...

im trying the the plastic jar. I'll mount it close to the headlight next to the fuel cannister, away from the exhaust manifold.

sounds good...hope it works out all right for u..cheers

Did you get your hydro-boost system installed thetrueslayer? Im finally working on mine, i´ll hopefully have it ready next weekend.

yup! get about 50% gain in fuel mileage from a few calculations...still in the testing stage though...used hydrochloric acid (since i got it) i have had it in for a while so i should check and see if i still got electrodes...the clear hose is nice though...i get a lot of condensation type stuff showing in the hose and water droplets as well...so i think it even works as a mild water injection...although that might be pushing it...who knows

I am hoping to build both of these in the next week for my 60 Biscayne, it has a 250... I was wwondering what kind of power increse I should be expecting out of this set up. (I am building both) Or does it only make a difference in the milage??? Either way if I can get better milage I will be happy!!! Thank you for your reply...

dont expect a noticeable power increase because the power to charge the alternator sorta takes away the power gain....although your top speed should be higher...before i could barely go above 160 km/h...now i can hit 180 km/h (which is as high as the speedo goes)...mileage gains all dpends on what u use for electorlite, electrodes, and for the pcv jar, it depends on the oil used....for the pcv jar i have found the best results using cheap oil (becaue there are no additives to prevent it from cracking to fuel) and about a litre of tranny fluid to keep things well lubricated...that has given me the best results...the hydroboost sstem still has room for experimentation..if u can find something for electrodes that doesnt get eaten away or rust when under electrolosis, then u have found the key..although dont count on it...just be happy with stainless steel or whatever (try a few different types if u want so u can see if there is any difference) for the electrolite...that is the big part...if the water from the tap is filled with many minerals and crap then dont expect it to work very well...i still have yet to try distilled water, but that should work very good....and use acid...baking soda and epsom salt and whatever else they say u can use really sucks...it works, but the bubbles are half the size.

Im gonna try using baking soda right now for experimentation, to see what happens. Do you have any idea how much baking soda I should use for about 2 quarts of water???

from what i've read about using baking soda, u heat up the water and stick in as much as u can while the water is hot..never tried using that much though...but i still like the acid best...there are tonnes of little bubbles when u use the baking soda...but with the acid the bubbles are 2-3 times bigger (at least with the hydrochloric acid.)

I just bought 3.4 Kg or 7.5 lbs. bag of %100 silica at a pet supply store. The brand is 'Litter Pearls' (used for kitty litter boxes) and cost $13.88 US. I'll be finalizing my PCV container today to be fit on a '49 3100 Chevy,'56 235 engine w/848 head, 1-H-W 2bbl carb, Fentons, duals w/30" glasspacks, '62 3sp+od, '57 3.90 rear.

wow...good deal for the silica gel. good thing u got the 100% stuff cause the stuff with the clay will just completely not work. let us know how it goes.

What kind of improvements did you see in gas mileage trying the hydro-boost and the pcv jar together???

so far i've noticed a 50% increase...but the last time i had my pcv jar apart i noticed the zinc coated BB's were starting to rust...so i dont think its doing so well right now...i need to get me some silica gel. the hydroboost seems to be working real well right now...its been two fillups and it still seems to be working, but i will take it apart soon to see how far gone the electrodes are...if everything is working u should see a 50-70% increase at least...since it works with the manifold vacuum it will work best at cruise or whenever manifold vacuum is highest...if u like to accelerate and deccelerate at speeds higher than 40 mph then that wont be very effective, i heard 0-40mph and cruise is where manifold vacuum is highest...but i could be wrong. i think a pump would work better, but the only problem is that they arent reliable since they are being run dry and could burn out or die anytime.

hey all, ive been kinda following this off and on and i finally decided to try that pcv jar. well, i built it, install it and so far after two tanks of gas my mileage has stayed the same. now this is a 71 gm inline 250 with 31000 original miles on it. could it be that this engine just isnt producing that much blowby to be productive? when i unplug the pcv hose and run the engine i dont see fumes coming out like i did on my old Nova's inline. also, i read that a lesser quality oil may help the cracking, but wouldnt a worse oil increase friction and be bad for the internals of the engine? please,any help would be great.

yup...good oil is useless for the PCV jar...with cheap oil though u can add about a litre of tranny fluid which will help lubricate everything better...i have had awesome increase in mileage when i had the cheap oil and tranny fluid...better than it is now with just cheap oil...but again the setup is different now....supposedly synthetic oil works too...so u might wanna try that out...as long as u dont have any leaks cause synthetic oil is thinner. although even if u dont use the pcv jar with cheap oil for mileage...u can at least keep the engine cleaner with it...have u opened it up and looked inside...when i checked mine i had some oil and small chynky flemmy type things in it...gross....both the hydrogen and pcv jar have 2 purposes...but if the hydrogen doesnt give nmileage increase then it doesnt work and the second purpose is not available..both have mileage and emmissions purposes, although i have not done an emmissions test yet, the bad stuff is supposed to be reduced quite a bit, something like 50% less bad stuff..maybe someone can go through an emissions test with the hydrogen (working unit though) and pcv if they have it...but the hydrogen is supposed to give the biggest benifits for that.

Ok, I've been following this and although I haven't tried the PVC system I've been looking at the hydrogen boost system pretty closely. I've been fooling around with different stuff in my garage for two nights now and I've got some questions (for whoever can answer?)

1. What kinda of amps are you running to your hydrogen generating unit? This seems like the best way to figure out around what volume hydrogen you're producing. I got up to 7 Amps worth before I accidentally shorted my Multimeter and blew the fuse. I read somewhere that 25 amps can be expected. This would line up with what I've seen. At 7 amps I was producing some, but probably not enough hydrogen.

2. What kind of electrolyte is best? I've tried baking soda, lemon juice, vinegar, salt and a few other things (acidic and basic things) that might make suitable electrolyte. I also tried some battery acid, but I want to stay away from nasty stuff like that. Salt and Baking soda seemed to work best.

3. Electrodes: Some obviously work better than others, I found this by trying. And some get eaten away quicker. Which ones have been tried and are good?
I thought I read something about battery electrodes not being eaten away. I also read on the internet that carbon based electrodes were immune to the reaction cause they were electrically neutral (think pencil lead). Does anyone know a good source of carbon electrodes. I thought of the brushes on electric motors tonight but never got a chance to try these yet (getting late). I'm basically trying to eliminate the one thing that requires maintenance. If I could make carbon electrodes work the maintenance would then just consist of adding water periodically.

4. Heat. I had one experiment go weird. I had layers of washers seperated by insulator (trying to get electrodes closer for stronger reaction). It seemed to work really good. But when I pulled the setup from the water/baking soda/salt bath there was melting and burn marks. It would seem that I was making a lot of heat so some of the bubbles I saw were steam I bet.
I noticed thetrueslayer mentioning about all the condensation and water in the lines going to his intake. Is it possible that it is perhaps not so much the hydrogen gas as the added water vapor that is some how increasing the efficency of the engine? Or a combination of both? I've never understood exactly how the hydroboost functed to increase mileage but the water might be significant.

Greg,

For carbon electrodes try welding carbons. They were used in the old carbon arc torches and they should be available at a welding supply store.

Jim

i dont know how many amps i am pushing...but i got a 15 amp fuse and it hasnt blown yet...i read that the more amps u can put through it the less electrolyte is actually needed. i have tried salt, epsom salts, viniger, baking soda and hydrochloric acid....salt will corrode the electrodes the fastest out of all these, the acid produces the biggest bubbles but i liked the epsom salts for the little length of time that they worked...it really gunked up and i didnt get more than a day out of it. Ive been wondering about the steam too, but water injection isnt realy for mileage..i think the best u would see with just the water is about a 5mpg extra, tops if that...so i am pretty sure the hydrogen is mixing with that..i noticed that the hydrogen electrode gums up or rusts the quickest and the negative (oxygen) side only turns a slight black hue...will the unit still continue to create oxygen even after the hydrogen side has gunked up to the point of uselessness? i think the reason the hydrogen boosts mileage is cause it creates extra power or something...it works case i tried it the other day with and without it and the difference was very noticeable...same driving both ways too. but hydrogen gives u a more complete burn and if u look at the advertisements for high ignition sets, they say they will increase gas mileage because of an increased burn...hydrogen will ignite faster than gas, so the hydrogen ignites the gast faster than it normaly would and gives a very good burn....i like it, i have had my hydrogen with the acid in for about 4 weeks now...so i will check it thiss week to see what kind of condition its in. get the thickest rods possible and let us know how they work.

Just a dumb question... I have been looking at industrial electrlyte tablets and I was wondering if these would work if I crushed them into powder... An electrlyte is an elctrolyte... Right? Mayby not I was just wondering... Also I was thinking, instead of using metal rods for the positive side, could I instead attach the electrodes to a thin piece of of pvc pipe that would not corode, and then run a positive wire through the pipe attached to each of the electrodes? (Sealing everything of course) I dont know too much about chemistry so I thought that I would ask... Thanks...

15 amps tops.............hmmm hmmm hmmm. That doesn't seem like enough. I agree with the concept of increasing burn rate and therefore increasing the efficency of the burn. That all makes sense. But to increase the burn rate I would think you would be talking about a significant amount of hydrogen. I was collecting the hydrogen I was making and it didn't seem like more than 100ml max.

So let's say I'm doing this on my 250.

4.1L @ 2000 RPM Means it'll use 1230 L of air a minute assuming 30% volumetric efficency (part throttle). 0.1L of hydrogen a minute into that seems like nothing at all. Could I be wrong? Hell ya, happens daily. But this doesn't even seem in the ballpark. Even if you factor in the oxygen being made it only adds another 3rd to the amount and it's still like nothing.

Even though it doesn't make a whole lot of sense right now I think there's gotta to be some kinda truth to this. I've heard it before in a few different places. Hmmmm. We'll see. I'll keep at it.

before when i was searching for stuff on this i found a site that i cant find anymore...maybe i'm just not looking right...but it said that all that was needed was 5% of the amount of gas thats used....like when u accelerate or cruise, of the gas that is being used, u only need 5% hydrogen of the gas being used...i hope that makes sense...seems like a small amount and the amount being produced isnt alot either...but maybe its the 5% or more which is needed? did u blow up the hydrogen after u collected it

Hmmm...I was thinking...in the article explaining the hydro-boost system it said you had to open a little hole on the lid to allow air to come in. I read on t he true slayer's homepage he didnt open the little hole. If I open the hole how would that affect the vaccumm or should I seal it???? By the way, how many MPG more did you get after you installed your system? How does your water catcher work?