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#23801 11/19/04 02:44 AM
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i am thinking about buying split 6 exhaust for my '53 235. eventually i want to put 2x1 intake on it, but i dont have the money yet. so i am just gonna buy the exhaust for now. my question is, can i use the stock intake with headers. i am going to get the headers from clifford performance. can i use exhaust heat to warm the manifold. or is it possible to use water heat on a stock manifold.

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Yes you can use your old intake, put a plate on the bottom and run either water or exhaust heat til you get a 2x1 intake. Water heat is the best and will provide "even" heat.

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Dear Brass;

52PU is correct.

However; A better way is to change the pair together with a modified head.

Save your money, get the best deals & plan it all out etc.

When the job is complete you can really appreciate the difference in preformance.

You won't need to heat the intake in California. That feature is only needed in "frezing climates" etc.


Good luck, John M.......


John M., I.I. #3370

"There are no shortcuts to any place worth going". -Anon
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its cold as hell right now. well....probably colder, but its like 45 at night and 55 in the day i think. so...do i just make the plate out of some steel or can i buy one. i can make it...i'm just lazy.

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Langdon's sells the part. Check out their catalog.


Jerry Acheson
Indianapolis
57 Chevy Stepside (Model 3100) http://community.webshots.com/user/jerryacheson
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This may seem like a stupid question, but what is the purpose of the water heated plate? I always thought that you want the air/fuel cold going into the carb./intake.

I live in East Tennessee if it matters.


Steve Hutson
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There are numerous threads (debates) in the archives about manifols heat. The main problem is fuel condensation (puddling) in the intake track. The heat will help keep the mixture atomized. Some people have had different results with maifold heat than others. It all depends on your application.

I use coolant plumbed to the bottom of the intake.
It seems to work fine, and cleared up a few issues for me. I have also run into fuel vaporization on one trip. Its was a hot day on a long trip. John


'68 C-10 - 250 with Edelbrock 600cfm 4 barrel, Offy intake, Hedman headers and true duals, HEI, MSD 6A box, relocated gas tank
Soon to have: T-5 tranny
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How in the heck would you run water heat on a stock intake?

And isn't the LAagdon plate for the Offy intakes that are divided?

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The problem with water heat is you need the heat the most when the engine is cold. When the engine is cold, guess what else is cold; the coolant! Exhaust gets warmer quicker. Another consideration is that some carburetors need heat more than others. I have switched back and forth between a large venturi monojet and a Holley / weber recently and the Weber doesn't need the heated manifold near as much as the monojet. The weber has a water heated choke, and runs good from the second you fire it up. The monojet has a hand choke and requires considerable babying when I first start the motor cold. I have seen actual frost on the carb base during warm up without heat to the manifold. Now in a case like that exhaust heat is best becuase it is warm right away.

Boo


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Heating the full saves gas because of better vapurization and more compelte burn.
Some guys even sale gasoline heaters (not the ones for diesel) for fuel saving.

I routed the steel lines of my 235 close to the head but it is not heating enough - got to improove that after the hollydays.

you need at least 180-190 F to save gas.

Never had a problem with vapout lock because the holly webers have a bowl vent, that I rout to the air cleaners.

Frank


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Just curious: Has anybody seen an electric manifold heater to deal with the cold startup issues? Something along the lines of an electric choke, maybe?

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Water heat is free both in terms of efficiency and of complexity. You would need need to provide additional electicity, thereby causing more drag from the generator or alternator, as well as an additional thermostat and relay if you heated the manifold with electric coils. Heating with electricity is thermo-dynamically very inefficient.

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Yeah, I was thinking electric heat until the coolant was warm enough to take over. I'm not planning on implementing it, mind you, but it seems like it might offer a 'best of both worlds' kind of solution.

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I didn't think manifold heat was important until the weather got cold this year. After putting up with the truck spitting and sputtering and carrying on, I finally fixed up my heat riser, which had been stuck open. WOW!! What a difference. I thought about water heat, but you don't get the heat when you need it (when the engine is cold), and you get heat when you don't (when the engine is hot). I think the factory's thermostatically controlled heat riser is the way to go.


-Tim
'51 Chevy 3104 w/'56 235, 848 Head, HEI Dizzy, 261 Cam & Split Manifold

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