Inliners International Forums General Discussion Hi Performance What Do We Know About Oil ? ? ?

I grew up watching my Dad use Royal Triton 30 weight motor oil in everything that moved. I think he even put some in the dog a time or two. Later, for reasons unknown to me, he switched to havoline 10w40. When I started building engines on my own it seems like me and all my freinds preferred Pennzoil 10w40. Lately I have encountered a few debates on the subject. Multi-viscosity verses good old 30 weight: 10w40 verses 10w30; et, et.

Now the reason I'm bringing this up is that I am in the process of spending a bundle on the 250 L6 engine in my 1970 truck. It's just a mild street engine, but I'm one of those guys who tends to think of the throttle as a switch; either it's on or it's off! I live in northwestern oregon where it rarely gets very hot or very cold, mostly very moderate. I spend a lot of my cruising time out on the county roads where there are lots of hills and sharp turns so you're on and off the throttle a lot. Soooo, I would like some feed back on what some of you think about motor oil. Considering that this engine will not live an easy life, what brand, multi-viscosity, 30 weight, synthetic, whats your opinion? And, can you back your opinion up?

Thanks in advance,
Boo Radley

I've always used multi viscosity oils even in my '55 235 that is expected to use single weight 30. I don't use synthetics because the earler engines didn't require them and they are too expensive for me. I do however change oil frequently,3000 miles, and filter if the engine has one.I use Quaker State because the case price is good around here.

In your 250, I would use a multi-viscosity oil, like 10W-40. That is what I used in everything, until I had a chat with the fellow who is rebuilding my 235. He convinced me that the 235 was designed for a straight weight oil, not a multi-viscosity. So, when I get it back, it will be SAE 30 only.

As far as brands, I and my dad have used TropArtic for years, and have had very good results with it. Personally, I would stay away from Pennzoil or Quaker State. They are parrafin based oils, and I understand that they tend to attract quite a lot of moisture.

Dear Boo;

Multi grade oils were developed for the U.S. Army during WWII as they were unable to service & often in frezing temps w/o 'warm-ups'.

These conditions don't apply today, especialy with custom engine/owners.

The 'detergent action' in most oils offered to the public stops at around 12-1500 miles/60 days.

For this reason(s) I use Dello 400 SAE 30. It is designed for diesel trucks/commercial use and the detergent used lasts around 4000 miles/6 months etc.

I live in California.

Those on the 'East Coast' use multi grade because of the climate.

Good luck, John M...

I don´t know to much about the oil history. But here in extreme south Brazil, were I live the temperature jump and dive along the year. In the summer is very hot and in the winter is very cold. The point is I try to use all the oils avaliable in local market and believe or not, the best result I had was a TWO STROKE MOTOR OIL. Yeah! 2 Stroke oil! It is thin enough to works fine when I start up the engine in the winter. But I need to do some changes in the oil system to avoid the pressure loss.

That's good information John. Do you know if the Dello 400 is available up here in the great north woods? Another thing I am wondering about is synthetic oil. What is it, and what are the advantages?

Boo

Ever since the V8 horsepower wars in the mid 50's auto makers have designed their engines to run on the so called multi viscosity oils like 10W30, 10W40, etc. The engineers reduced clearances between moving parts to work with the thinner oils. They also printed in every owners manual a recommended list of various oils to use under different conditions. This is still being done today.

With a properly built engine that is in good condition the correct recommended light oil will provide the proper cushion to protect the engine from wear or worse.

Heavier than required oil will make the oil pressure gauge give a very impressive reading and many drivers think that is a sign of good lubrication when in fact the higher gauge reading is telling you that the oil is actually having a hard time going where it is supposed to be going.
Just imagine trying to stuff wheel bearing grease through a straw.

Unless the oil is subjected to extreme loading by the engine or might be thinned by fuel wash down as in some drag racing engines, most street engines have nothing to gain by excessively heavy viscosity. Even the NASCAR Cup cars are now running very light weight oils and many even use synthetics. Up until the rule change a couple of year ago prohibiting the use of a qualifying engine they ran 0W30 for qualifying in these 700 HP motors at 7000+ rpm. Of course they only had to last 3 laps.

Oil choice is almost as bad as argueing politics or religion, everyone is right at some point.

Mike G

i have run both . this is what i have found. with stright weight oil. the oil pressure goes down 5 to 10 psi. when the motor get warmed up. and with the multi weights it stays the same. we use 10-40 in the stock car motors and they are not run in the winter.
even harley-davidson uses 20-50. the reason is when the motor is cold the thin oil pumps through it faster on start up so you dont have a dry start.
now the one thing i have been looking at is the way the oil filter is on the block of a 250. laying on its side so oil drains out of it. i think having it virtical like a v8 would help. think about it on start you have to fill the filter first.

If it's the proper filter, it will have an anti-drainback valve. Filters that don't have the valve fit just fine, but should never be used on engines whose filter orientation is such that drainback can occur.

Baldy

Dear Boo;

You can find/order Dello at any Standard Oil/Chevron station. NAPA/KRAGEN has it in most stores.

JM....

Thanks John -- I like the idea of the detergent properties lasting 4000 miles. I think I'll use this oil and faithfully change it every 3500 or so. I plan on keeping this motor for quite awhile, so I may learn something valuable through all this.

Boo

PS: NAPA sells a 2 qt filter that fits a 250 & GM V-engines. Add that & get even more. A short 'warm up' is needed in cold weather.

This link has some useful info on oil etc...
http://www.241computers.com/ford/ContentExpress20-64-60.html
The oil filter review is an interesting read.

Hey -- I like it! A 2 quart filter with the Dello 400 SAE #30. Sounds like just the ticket. After all, all us baby boomers know; MORE IS BETTER!!!

Boo Radley

Have you considered Mobil One synthetic? I'm training to be a Mercedes tech, and that's all we use. We have cars that go 20,000 miles on regular Mobil One synthetic. It's less resistant to breakdown that regular oils. Granted it's more expensive, and if you change your oil every 3,000 miles then regular oil should be fine. Everyone has their own personal preferences, and stories. Good luck with the engine. John

I don't know much about synthetics. What are they made from?
Boo

I don't know what synthetic is, But I have used almost every type and brand in the store. I own a 96 GMC Burban and its got 220,000 miles on it and other than the first 20,000 miles it has had Mobile 1 10-30. Still on the original motor and it doesn't smoke one bit. I"m not sure but others were saying its an old motor and it was built for 30w, but if your rebuilding it its probably gonna be alot better than stock so I'd use a type of synthetic. You just can't use synthetic during break-in...it works so good the parts won't mate up. I also have a 65 cutlass with the orignal 330 with well over 200,000 and I've been running Mobile 1 with out any problems.

I use synthetic in all my cars mostly because it doesn't get thick in cold temps. The oil pressure goes up immediately when starting cold. Getting proper lubrication quickly is especially important in a splash lubed STOVEBOLT engine.
Also I like the Purolator Pure One oil filter.