Inliners International Forums General Discussion Hi Performance Maximum Horsepower

As many of you know I have a 1970 Chevy C/10 project under way. I have been working on the original 250 and even though I don't even have the block back from the machine shop, I'm already disappointed in it. I'm going to finish it and use it for a while, but next winter I am going to go ahead and build a 292. So, here's my question:

What is the maximum horsepower you can achieve with a naturally aspirated 292 with out nitrous, and still be a decent driver?

How do you get there?

Remember; me, the truck, and a tank of gas weigh in at right around 4000 lbs, so you can't get to extreme and remain "streetable."


Boo

The best comprehensive approach to what can be done with the 292 is undoubtedly to be found in Leo Santucci's "Power Manual." i recommend that you read it closely . . . and then you'll know what to search for on this site and what questions to ask.

God's Peace to you.

d
Inliner #1450

Use the Search feature and look at earlier postings on the 292.
As Don said get Leo's book and read it close.

Remember you do not have to do all mods at one time.
Do them as money allows or experience grows.


Good Luck.

Remember also,

Build It, Buy It but Drive It....

I have a '68 Chevy C/10 shortbed stepside. It came original with a 292. 292s run real good in C/10s. Stock HP is spec'ed at 170.

Don't know if you realised it or not - you've just dissed the advise from some of the most experianced & qualified people there are anywhere on the web, along with the best author on the subject, so maybe take a deep breath and relax a little. There are no instant answers for any particular build so you need to do the research and see what fits for you. The best way to start would be to follow the suggestions already given. Frustration aside, an apology would go a long ways toward achieving these goals also.

Boo,
I agree with Old Newby.
Take a DEEP breath and think of your question.

You asked a question that is difficult to answer depending on parts used, etc.

As I said do some research on earlier postings.
Most all these things have been discussed at length before.
We will help you but try to help us help you.
Look at different combinations of parts.
One person can use certain cam, carbs, intake, exhaust, gearing, etc. and get one number.
The next person may not get the same because of different set up.

You can take 2 engines and try to build alike, and they may not perform the same.
That's just engines for you.

I also said use Leo's book, it is a good book to follow. He has experience and research that will help you if you will read and follow it.
You can order it from the Inliners Store.

Remember your agreement signing on here.
We do NOT want bashing on here.
If you insist then you will have to be quiet.

By the way are you an Inliner member? If not why not join.

Thanks,

Dear Mr. Radley;

There is no EXACT answer to the question as stated and this is why you were advised (twice)to study the issue, via the suggested text.

A little less 'attitude' would help your cause a lot.

The most HP for the dollar has to abandon the naturally aspirated requirement. The 4000 lb truck will be an ass kicker with the naturally tough 292's short block O-ringed and a home welded ni-rod cast iron adapter plate with a used turbo from the auto-wreckers.

Keep the boost down to 5 lbs. and you will have a reliable torque-monster.

I guess I will have to ask you how you define DECENT DRIVER,STREETABLE in the same queston as MAX HORSEPOWER...my 250 is .060 over bore with 307 v/8 flattop pistons,full balance,.060 off the head,.194 350 v/8 intake valves and .160 exh. valves. The valves pockets have been cleaned up with a lot more work done on the exh. side the cam is a old Clay Smith with .519 lift with .258 duration on the int.side and .266 on the exh. side. The lifters are Crane Hi-Rev left over from years ago, good to 7000 rpm.s I use some double wound valve springs removed from a set of Mondello heads I use to use on a "c" Dragster in 1978. They have 94 lbs. on the seats which work fine for me as my motor starts giving up(flowing) at about 5900 rpms.I call this motor DECENT DRIVER because It has a good idle,starts good,runs on reg. unleaded,runs cool,and gets 20 mpg with a 3.36 gear in a 1950 Chevy.I have seen 4000 rpms in hi-gear...do the math.....to old to be a prima-donna, but maybe a old coot..SCRAP

Let's not let this thread go the wrong way

doesn't Leo's book say 1.1 x ci for streetable, 2.3 x ci for comp use?

If this thread goes the wrong way I will close it..

We do not want things going the wrong way for a mis-understanding on someone's part.

Now for some info that you can get out of Leo's book.
292 + .060=302

street limits on gasoline is like 1.1 times displacement to give approx. 332 HP and are substantial HP increases and require compromises in driveability.

It all depends on what you do at machining time and all the parts used.

Think about your question as to how we on here can give you one answer when it depends on many variables.

Good Luck.
Have a great day.

As Walt states, you have a lot of variables. There are many questions you need to answer before you can get any serious help.

What will the truck be used for? Just driving around on the street, hauling a trailer, actually loading the bed up with heavy "stuff", drag racing etc.

Automatic or manual, overdrive?

Do you care about gas mileage or running 91+ octane.

What gears and tire sizes.

Most important, how much money do you want to spend.

I believe most will agree there comes point on an inline where you can build a lot more power, horse and torque, based on your answers to questions like those above and your own abilities where it goes from reasonable to it is too @$%!& expensive.

What might be best to get reasonable help here is to lay out your plan including the entire package
and have the group critique it.

I don't know guys...maybe it's just me,but it seems Boo was just asking a question,and maybe made a poor choice in word selection to express his thoughts.I don't see where he purposely "dissed" anyone, and yes, we all are capable of jumping the gun by asking questions without attempting a reasonable amount of research on our own first.One thing I have learned from my own mistakes is that it doesnt take much to cause hard feelings amongst family,friends,etc. with a few misplaced keystrokes.
As for Boo's question, I think plenty of real good advice was given.My '69 C-20 runs good with the stock 292, but when I'm ready to rebuild I'm sure i will want to hop it up some.Some folks are happy with a mild performance upgrade while others have to build an "over the top" MAX everything in their rides.Personally, I 've just been learning all I can so when I'm actually ready to DO the rebuild, I hope to do it right the first time.And yeah, I will read Leo's book to add to the wealth of info found on the BB.That's my "two cents".
God Bless,

The post where he dissed was removed.

Once you start pushing the 300+ hp streetable? will become a issue for many. Esp. with a AT tranny as you no dout will end up needing more stall speed and Much better rear gears This to will hurt the daily driver As the motor will then be reving much higher. A example is when I was useing mine as a daily driver.The cam that was in it ran from 3800-7200 with a 4speed and stock 3:08 gears The cam wasn't to happy at 40mph in 4th had to down shift to 3rd to keep the cam happy and Not make the car Lope/Hop along with the cam. i may thought it was cool to Hear the tires Bark with each Lope of the cam But the Motor wasn't very happy.

So you may make a Street Car a Racer But you will not make a RACE car a streeter. So really think about what you want. You may have a Mild build of both. But you will never Really Get The best of Both worlds when it comes to the Maximum Power with a naturally aspirated motor. The cams Itself won't let you nore will compression running Race fuel.

Well said Bruce.

This is not just to Boo, but everyone:

We want to be friends on here and not enemies so let us help each other and they remember what they asked.
If they are in-experinced enough to not know what is really a good combo, Say so, that way we know how to answer.
No one person has the answer for everyone, because that would be his way of doing it.
His needs or wants may be different.

As Bruce said, put together your package and pass it by everyone without taking offense.
Everyone has a particular experince with different parts.
We all want to have a good running combo.

Nuff said,

LETS MOVE on to HELPING.

Thanks,

When you run multiple carbs like side draft Webers, it does smooth out your idle & helps throttle response.For like when you have bigger cams. Also for camshafts, you can get away with[generally speaking]10 more degrees of duration as compared to a hydraulic cam.Example 220 hyd as to 230 duration for a solid.
Webers makes your car a better street car & is also great for drag racing.
Hank

I believe in the first post he stated (What is the maximum horsepower you can achieve with a naturally aspirated 292 with out nitrous, and still be a decent driver?

How do you get there?)
So I believe it belongs here.I believe Webers will give you maximun HP & be a decent driver.
Anyone else agree?
Thanks
Hank

Webbers are the next best thing to being injected or close to it anyway .

YOU WANT WEBERS ??? Ebay has a sidedraft intake there now Item # 8014471391....SCRAP