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#33247 01/11/06 02:44 PM
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Inliners,

I have had plenty to do in the last few months, but I thought I would update everyone on the progress of this intake I'm building.

The CAD parts are being Laser'd as we speak and I hope to get them in a few days. They nested out pretty well on the sheet. When I get them back I will get them to my buddy who is a wiz in aluminum Tig Welding. I learned a lot about providing him with alignment holes to jig the assembly while welding so everything will be correct. I added a "Tree" to the intake flange part and I will bolt it to a steel plate to assure no warping. After it's all welded, I'll grind off the "Tree". These little details will hopefully get it right the first time. I would have never thought of all the details without my friend's experiance in welding.
I am also rebuilding the 5 Holley 94's at this time. They are not too bad to rebuild, but I am going to add longer throttle shafts and all new jets.
I read an article stating that the total volume of the intake should be divided by the CFM of the carbs to prevent a too rich/lean mixture in the combustion chamber. This will take the longest to get setup correctly. Anyone have a carb sync tool I could borrow? Since I am going to block off the 2 intermediate carbs (numbers 2 & 4)with a solid gasket, I will only have to sync the two outer and middle carbs.

Please see the following photos. I'll keep everyone posted when I get the parts back and welded up.

RapRap
1940 ChoppedChevyCoupe


These parts are the intake plenum, & runners in .1875


These parts are the intake flange and carb bases in .375


This is the final assemble CAD model


This is a computer rendering with photos of the real carbs


Photo of the carbs and stacks. The Almquist dual intake is not going to be used.


What it might end up looking like when it's done. I'm not sure it's the look I was looking for on the old Coupe. I think it will look better on the new RatRod


Loud Pipes Saves Lives!
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Bob, I've got this type you can borrow if you can't find one closer to home.


https://www.vwparts.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=BP7033&Category_Code=TOOLS


Drew
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Looking Good \:D


Larry/Twisted6
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Great design Bob. One of a kind setup that will surely draw a crowd. I'm looking forward to seeing the real thing. Don


1951 Ply Concord truck
1954 Nash Rambler 2 dr
1955 Nash Rambler Farina
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Thanks, Drew.
When I get to the point of fine tuning the set up and have not located a sync tool, I'll contact you.
This is why a club like ours is so invaluable. People helping people.

FYI- The folks who are cutting out the parts for me called late yesterday and said that they too are gearheads and love the design. They race Outlaw Cars and Midgets, fabricate all of their race car parts, and will use their Water Jet to cut the parts. They said that it will be a "Cold" cutting process and will not warp or distort the T-6. How cool is that!

Bob Malin
RapRap
1940 ChoppedChevyCoupe


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Hi Bob. May I suggest making the runners with gentle bends instead of abrupt angular bends. and add a skosh of taper to them too. Good luck.


FORD 300 inline six - THE BEST KEPT SECRET IN DRAG RACING!
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Greg,

I'm planning to add some radius to the inside of the runners when fabricating. Before they get closed up, My buddy is going to add some material and then grind down the welds so they have a small inside bend.
Which way should the runners taper? From the plenum or towards the flange side? I would think wider at the bottom of the plenum and narrower towards the intake to accentuate the "Ram" effect.

Thanks for the pointers!

RapRap
1940 ChoppedChevyCoupe


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Bob, Well actually they should get smaller as they approach the head by about 2% to reduce the chances of turbulence, accelerate the charge, an dhelp keep the fuel in suspension.


FORD 300 inline six - THE BEST KEPT SECRET IN DRAG RACING!

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