Inliners International Forums General Discussion Hi Performance External oil Pump

Hi Guys


i´m back from the ashes! ;-) well now i´m looking a external oil pump for my engine, since i will be using a block girdle, like Douglas, there will be no room for a internal iol pump. any of you have expirience with this kind of oil pumps? doing some research i´ve found 3,4, 4 and half(???) 5 and 6 stages oils pumps. do you have any ideia of which kind of external oil pump is adviced to my application (8500 RPM - 1000 HP)? any brand that is as good as the famous ones (moroso and etc)?


Edy

We used a 5-6 stage on our Jr Fuel Dragster V8, sorry I don't remember the name. It was a dry sump system. we actually pulled a vacuum in the crank case, that was good for some extra HP. Each stage pulled from a different location of the oil pan, cam valley, and,,,. We ran 9000 RPM, 1000 plus HP. That's a start, someone will chime in with more.

Larry

I am assuming that you are going to go with a dry sump system. Having said that, not all oil pumps are created equal. Some manufactures do a better job of marketing than others, but their pups are less than desirable. When looking for a pump you want to find a pump that has the highest efficiency rating over a period of time. Most will fall off after about one hour of use and that’s why they recommend running higher oil pressures to keep up with the less than efficient pump. If a pump manufacture cant tell you the efficiency rating after on hour of running , run away fast as you can.

Fist you will have to figure out and match the GPM (gallons per minute) flow to the engine. Your engine builder should know, if he doesn’t stay far away from him. I know on a SBF it requires 6 GPM. As a practical example the rule of thumb for most engine builders used to be 10psi of oil for every 1000rpm. In this case, the oil pump would impose a strain of roughly 10hp to produce 10psi; so at 8000rpm this would cost you 80hp.

Using this principle and an efficient pump you can meet the SBF requirement at 45psi at 8000rpm for a shafted strain savings of 35HP. This shafted horsepower was always there but now it can be seen on the dyno and is available to the drive wheels. One benefit that wont show up on the dyno but is there is from reducing the shafted strain is the faster acceleration. Just as its easier to run in a pool of water than a pool of honey you can get up to speed much faster. Also with a efficient pump you can reduce pump speed from about 57% crank shaft speed to about 45%.

From all the testing we did over the years in racing and looking at what the top winning teams use (not the grid fillers) the two pumps that always out performed for us was a Johnson pump and the Auto-Verdi pumps. I personally run a Johnson 5 stage on my Jimmy.

Because these pumps pull big vacuum you can run a low-tension ring pack to gain more HP. But with the big vacuum you will need to put oilers in the pan to lube the piston pins. There is a lot of other things that need to be considered, pan design, dry sump tank baffling design. My friends at Rousch Racing have helped me with my engine and they came up with a pan design to gain lost HP (not make HP) and a tank top design for the oil return to help prevent oil aeration. That’s all HP to gain. Hope to use this set up at speed week this year. I haven’t been able to post pictures, but send me a PM with your email and I will send some.

SUM FUM

Thanks a lot for sharing your experiences with us!!
i will be sending you a PM with my email!!


Thanks

Edy