Inliners International Forums General Discussion Drive Train overdrive alternatives to the t-5?

I'm guessing there probably aren't many, but I thought I'd ask. I've been looking to put a T5 in my 66 C-10 - hoping to do the camaro/s-10 hybrid deal. I've been watching ebay and looking at the pick and pull. The pick and pulls don't have anything and the prices on ebay are crazy.

For a NWC T5, they're around $3-400. For a WC, around $4-600. Finding a s-10 tailhousing with the mech speedo is tough. Here's one that went for over $200:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=140209207981

Are there alternatives out there? I don't feel so excited about spending $700 on a couple of used transmissions. Is the TKO 500 the only other thing out there? Would that even put the shifter in the right place on a pickup w/ a bench seat?

there is another choice. NEW PROCESS made a trans for chevy 1/2 ton trucks in the early 80's,called a MY6. it is a 4 speed with 4th being overdrive. the ratios are identical to a 700r4. it is made to bolt to a chevy truck bell also. same length as a muncie and same input and output shafts. it is simular to the chyrsler a833 4 speed. i have a bunch of them on a pallet in the shed. they use a shifter like a muncie. tom

Is the bolt pattern on the bellhousing face the same as a Muncie? I want to go to an overdrive in my '63 Nova. The prices and condition of units is getting to me. Got 5 different t-5's now and not enough pieces to build 1 good one.

what's weird, is some have the GM/muncie bolt pattern(but have to use a truck bell housing) and others have a 1/2 chevy and 1/2 dodge bolt pattern. there are also different variations of the casting material. i have seen both iron and alum cases. go figure. tom

Any way to get this MY4 trans to go to a 216/235/261? Ot is it a 230/250/292 trans only?

should bolt right to your bell. check to see if it has a 5 1/8 front hole for the trans to insert thru.

Any years of manufacture or vehicles they are in? I would doncider scoring one of these in a second if I know what I was looking for.

So, there might be hope for this to fit a GMC belhousing? Or am I dreaming?

if it fits the Chevy bell housing, its gotta fit the GMC.

Okay, excellent. Thanks

For what it's worth there a couple of T-5's for sale over on The H.A.M.B.

Joe

same here. anyone have any input? thanks for the help everyone.

i will just add to my previous post. they were in 1/2 ton chevy/gmc pickups. both 2wd and 4 wd. i'll guess they started in 80 or 81 and went thru 86? they also came with all engine combo's. inlines, v8's and diesel. tom

here is the previous post
there is another choice. NEW PROCESS made a trans for chevy 1/2 ton trucks in the early 80's,called a MY6. it is a 4 speed with 4th being overdrive. the ratios are identical to a 700r4. it is made to bolt to a chevy truck bell also. same length as a muncie and same input and output shafts. it is simular to the chyrsler a833 4 speed. i have a bunch of them on a pallet in the shed. they use a shifter like a muncie. tom

where do these transmissions put the shifter? from what I can tell, it looks like there are two different locations for them depending on what 'model' you pick up.

Tom, any chance you could post a few pix? I guess I'm getting confused on the Muncie as they made both a 4 speed passenger and truck transmission, which are two completely different animals. The passenger car Muncie 4 speed was the same length as the 3 speed and mounted the shifter on the side. Hitting the U Pullit yards but still not sure what I'mm looking for.

Larry Griffin responded to this thread soon after my first post. He is having problems posting here. He told me to look at the a833/rpo my6/np440 as an option. He installed one in his pickup using the shifter and lever from a Dodge van and shift rods from an 'E' body (he believes) Mopar,with a 2 inch hardwood spacer for the rods to clear the trans. I'm sure he'll chime in once he can post.

Here are a few links I found last week:

http://www.classicjunkyard.com/new_process_a833.htm
http://www.slantsix.org/articles/4-speeds/ODA833fourspeed1.htm
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/picture-4-speed-56525.html
http://www.hemmings.com/mus/stories/2005/03/01/hmn_feature17.html
http://www.autohobbydigest.com/a-4spd.html
http://www.68cuda.com/tranny.html

Thanx, now I know what I'm looking and have already seen. I think this is one I passed on for $65.00 because I wasn't sure.Now I have to work on the 7 o'clock clutch arm problem for my Nova or an adaptor for my present bell.

guy's here are some pics. one tranny has the funky chev/mopar bolt pattern, see how it's bell has both patterns.
the rest of the pics show a regular chev bolt pattern. then my stash of them. tom

Thank you tlowe and 63ChevyII, I now know what I am looking for. Anyone got any suggestions how to rework the clutch throwout arm to make it work for the Chevy II's using the truck bellhousing?

i'd tell you to use a truck bell from a later model w/ hydraulic throwout bearing engagement. tom

OK, I'm having trouble following some of this. Will the C-10
transmission fit behind a 235? What year tranny? How about using a hydraulic throwout bearing? John

1 st question
03-15-2008 should bolt right to your bell. check to see if it has a 5 1/8 front hole for the trans to insert thru.
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2 nd question
i will just add to my previous post. they were in 1/2 ton chevy/gmc pickups. both 2wd and 4 wd. i'll guess they started in 80 or 81 and went thru 86? they also came with all engine combo's. inlines, v8's and diesel. tom

here is the previous post
there is another choice. NEW PROCESS made a trans for chevy 1/2 ton trucks in the early 80's,called a MY6. it is a 4 speed with 4th being overdrive. the ratios are identical to a 700r4. it is made to bolt to a chevy truck bell also. same length as a muncie and same input and output shafts. it is simular to the chyrsler a833 4 speed. i have a bunch of them on a pallet in the shed. they use a shifter like a muncie. tom
3rd question
i'd tell you to use a truck bell from a later model w/ hydraulic throwout bearing engagement. tom
_________________________

Just to add some more ideas to the mix, I just looked at a '40 Chev coupe in Seattle with a 250 in it and the owner used a 4 speed overdrive ford toploader transmission he got from a 74 Granada and used a 4 speed shifter from a Jeep that bolts right on the top,and plugged the side shifter fork holes. Claims he runs 1650 RPM at 60MPH. The shifter came up near the stock locattion and looked stock with the bakelite knob.

Found a company Quick Time Bellhousings http://www.quicktimeinc.com that has a variety of bellhousings to adapt a large selection of transmissions for GM, Ford and Mopars., including one for Nova's with the 7 o'clock clutch arm

I ended up getting a 'rebuilt' WC T5 with the s-10 tailhousing attached off of ebay about a month ago. It was more than I wanted to spend, but after checking out prices I thought it was a pretty good deal.

Here are some pics of the tranny - I am a little concerned:

Is this normal (silicone or whatever on outside of case)?


I would have thought this would be cleaner:


Do I need to be concerned about this damage?


Do you guys think I should pull it apart to see what it looks like inside?

I also need to figure out what bell housing to use and what to do about a driveshaft.

All that silicone seal makes me a little suspect as to the quality of their workmanship, reused the gaskets(?). The shifter doesn't look bad. Most transmission rebuilders don't do clean the trans more than they have to. If the trans hasn't been blown they won't bother to wash the case out. I'd be more concerned about the tail shaft resting on the seal than the ding in the seal case. If you have an old yoke put that on the tail shaft, even the drive shaft if you have room. When I changed my trans the shop that shortened the drive shaft, had me measure the length of the two transmissions and give them the difference. Measure the input shaft retainer to see it's dia. is, that will tell what needs to be done to the bell housing or what bell housing you need.

Larry

The silicone is the factory seal on those (extension housing and top) it was cheaper to manufacture that way. It being gobbed on and smeared like that doesn't speak of much care being taken during the 'overhaul'. As for being cleaner, it's kind of hard to see in the picture, is that grit inside the shifter housing, or casting bumps? The dents in the seal look like a hack install, however the seal doesn't look new.

If you want to pull the top to check inside, you have to pull the extension housing off. To do that put it in Neutral, then you have to pull the shift block off, drive the roll pin towards the case with a suitable tool, the block is relieved on the bottom side, so after you drive it far enough it will more or less fall out. You then have to wiggle the block off the back of the shift rail, be careful there is a ball bearing and spring in a hole in the bottom of the shift block that ride in the detent plate (the part in the picture with the blue grease on it) don't loose them (or the roll pin). After that you take ALL the bolts out of the extension housing and it should pull off (a rap or two with a plastic hammer helps, but be carefull not to crack the top casting as it sticks into the shifter box). There is a bearing on the back of the countershaft (the bottom one) in the back of the extension housing, I have never had one fall off while doing this, but it's something to be aware of

There should be an o ring around the stub on the top casting where it mates with the shifter box portion of the extension housing. Take all the bolts out of the top and it should lift off of the main case, you will liely have to wiggle/ finagel the shift forks out of the gears (as they come with the top). The sender with the wires on the top is the reverse lockout switch (if it has one) and can stay there (the one on the side is the backup light switch).

You should have a good look at the inside of the box now, you decide how it looks (post pics too, please).

Just out of curiosity, is this supposed to be a World Class or a Non World Class box? The WC boxes have fiber synchros and needle bearings between the gears and the main shaft, the NWC box has brass synchros and bushings between the gears and main shaft.


Not trying to come off as a know it all here, I have had a few of these that far appart and no further (WC & NWC are the same for this). The biggest pain is getting the shift forks out and back into the collars (as long as you find ALL the bolts, on the first one I did I missed ONE bolt on the extension housing for about 15 minutes ).

If you get as far as puting the extension housing back on and it comes up about 1/4" or so from seating on the main case it's probably the bearing on the back of the countershaft. Some of them have a small relief notch in the collar of the bearing (it doesn't look like a 'manufactured' notch on the ones I have seen) that lines up with a tab or tang cast into the extension housing (kind of a PITA if it turns on you while you are putting it back together).

FWIW I prefer the 'Right Stuff' brand of "Tube 'O Gasket". Evil nasty looking stuff while you're putting it on, but I haven't had a leak on anything I have used it on.

Hope that helps.

FWIW: From what I wemember?

FWIW: For What It's Worth

The brand of sillycone isn't critical, it just has to be immune to whatever lube you are supposed to use (Gear oil for NWC, ATF for WC, or so I'm told).

Hey Guys,


Sorry I haven't replied to your help. I haven't been receiving emails telling me that their have been replies to my posts. I just saw that you replied tonight after doing a search for my posts in google (site:www.inliners.org 63ChevyII). I'm a little upset at the hack-job I got. I paid good money for this 'rebuilt' transmission and then it showed up 3 or 4 after it was supposed to be delivered.

I probably won't be able to get to this for a bit. I'm trying to get the nova together for a get-together thats coming up. If you're interested, you can see my progress here http://63chevyii.com/

btw... this is supposed to be a WC transmission with an s-10 tailhousing.
Do you guys think I should say something to the seller about the tailshaft resting against the seal?

If this is one of the T-5s' sold on EBay from a Texas rebuilder you might want to mention it to them and EBay too as an item recieved and not in the condition you expected.

I went over to my storage space last night to take another look at the transmission. I think the 'tailshaft hitting the seal' thing is b/c of the camera angle. I'll try to snap a couple of pics tonight.

I emailed the seller last night (he is a Texas Ebay guy - Jalopy45 do you know anything about him?). This was his response:



I thought about putting in a complaint with E-Bay, but the 60 day time period to do so is up

If the seal just needs to be replaced, I won't throw much of a fit.