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#45805 12/06/08 12:47 AM
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just looking for dimensions of ford inline rods.200/240/250/300?
length
small end bore
small end width
big end crankpin size
big end width

can anyone fill in the blanks?

thanks tom


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Yep,I'll be home soon, and post it then! I know the length on the 300 is 6.220"!



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Here you go tlowe!

200
Length: 4.720"
B/E Width: .994"
Wrist Pin: .912"
Journal Size: 2.1232/2.1240"
B/E Bore: 2.239"

240
Length: 6.800"
B/E Width: .982"
Wrist Pin: .912"(early,65-69)/.975"(late,70-74)
Journal Size: 2.1228/2.1236"
B/E Bore: 2.2754"

250
Length: 5.88"
B/E Width: .985"
Wrist Pin: .912"
Journal Size: 2.1232/2.1240"
B/E Bore: 2.2399"

300
Length: 6.220"
B/E Width: .982"
Wrist Pin: .912"(early 65-68),.975"(late 69-on)
Journal Size: 2.1228/2.1236"
B/E Bore: 2.2754"



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thanks for the #'s! they don't help alot though. just looking for more choices. tom


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There isn't many modern engines that have rods as long as a 292! It kinda' looks like its falling into the same category as the GMC rod....one of a kind!



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Aluminum rods are the answer. ;-)
I have heard of Pontiac V-8 guys running aluminum rods (when there were no aftermarket steel rods for them) on the street for years & no problems.
IIRC they put on about 30,000 street miles & had no problems running aluminum rods.

Just a thought.


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I used Super Rod brand in Cotton's 292's. They were about 7.250" long!



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 Originally Posted By: CNC-Dude
I used Super Rod brand in Cotton's 292's. They were about 7.250" long!


Did they ever break?


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Occasionally! His engines represented the extreme in all aspects of performance,RPM,Compression,Valve Lift,etc...So more milder combos could be expected to have better longevity with aluminum rods than his.Even though rod failure was rare, it did happen. Better technology is available today also, as are better products! I have used MPG aluminum rods in many high HP nitrous engines(over 1200 HP) with no failures at all(knock on wood). They also seem to be the standard in most Comp Eliminator and Pro Stock engines, where high RPM and High HP is commonplace. So falling back into an application were the usable RPM is usually below 7000 RPM and HP levels are relatively low, then these products should last indefinately....in theory!



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What are you trying to do Tom??? You're not going to the dark side are you? (Kidding!)


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Were those aluminum rods 7.250" when he got them or when he was done with them? \:o I think aluminum rods would serve us well. They would allow the use of even lighter pistons plus the weight saved on the rods themselves. Somewhere I read that by using a 228-248 crank in a 270 rpms could be increased to the 7000 to 7500 range. I'd think lighter longer rods and lighter shorter pistons could help. I realize that we're not all about rpm here but the stroke would still be 3 13/16. A 4 1/8 X 3 13/16 in a 302 block is still 305.7.


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Aluminum rods have always been an alternative for these engines. I just thought that most of the interest so far was geared more for a lesser expensive rod swap solution. If the budget is there for them , then by all means do it. The can provide an economical alternative compared to billet steel rods such as Crower and Carillo and others, and can also last indefinately in engines that see modest RPM and lower HP level. And by modest, I mean 7000-7500 RPM. And lower HP, I mean 7-800 HP. So anything in between with a good quality product will last quite a while.



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Oh, so I guess we won't be making our own aluminum rods out of old beer cans? From my view it looks like I can use production rods and expensive pistons or custom rods and production pistons. I'm still looking.


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beater,
i would not drink enough beer in 10yrs to make 1 rod! tom


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Finally a place where I can help! How many cans do we need!


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Try Oliver.
I'm switching from aluminum to steel.
Sweet pieces - a little pricey tho.


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I've always heard that the only difference between men and boys....is the price of their toys! Just think of it as an investment.



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