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Did Fenton ever make a dual carb intake for a 216?
Tom
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I'm real sure the early ones were 216" but I,ve wondered when they enlarged the ports or if they made them both ways for a period of time. I never ask but I always figured the newer repops are all 235" aren't they? 1 OL REDNECK
DARRELL KRAFT I.I.#113
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Over on the H.A.M.B. a year or so ago there was a thread on inline equipment, mostly manifolds. You could search that. It was truly amazing! I found it for ya'! Stovebolt intakes
Last edited by Beater of the Pack; 01/22/09 12:14 AM.
"I wonder if God created man because he was disappointed in the monkey?" Mark Twain
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Yes, they made a 216 intake. I have a couple of them. Generally the quickest way to tell by sight is the 216's had square ends on the runners and the 235's had the rounded ends on the runners. Some of the older 216's had the "wing" in front of the carb mounts with a hole in them for the solid linkage setup. They were also made without the wings. None of the 235's had the wings. And, of course, there was the differences in the port sizes, the carb mounting sizes and the match up between the intake and exhaust manifolds. Fenton even made both style plates with tubes supplied for the heat feature on the Fenton headers. Joe 
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Great - thanks for the info!!
Tom
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Did FENTON ever make any sideplates [long or short]? Thanks for awnsering that one! 1 OL REDNECK
DARRELL KRAFT I.I.#113
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If anybodies got one, I'm in the market for one.
DARRELL KRAFT I.I.#113
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the heat feature
I know what it does, but how does it work on the Fenton?
Does it actually transfer exhaust gas to a chamber under the plenum, or just heat by conduction?
I've seen (old & dim) photos with a single connection between exhaust and intake, but it struck me that it won't do much if it's a dead end - I didn't see any way for the gas to circulate?
Jumping ahead: it can't just escape after passing through the intake chamber, and it won't flow back into the exhaust manifold unless you pick 2 spots on the exhaust with different levels of pressure.
A complicated thought: if the gas exits the front pipe, passes through a chamber below the plenum, and enters the rear pipe, the firing order at idle and low speed will give a slight pressure differential (the gas will flow back and forth as each pipe is "hot"). As speed increases the pulses will overlap and gas transfer through the intake will stop.
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Didn't most of them bolt to the stock manifold or of course FENTON orignal street headers have a heat riser cast on them. I don't think anybody is repoping them. Then of course they went to the heat plate but it bolts to the same pattern on the intake but they don't put exaust into intake manifold, it just heats the bottom of intake as a riser would. Anything tapped into intake aia would think is for vacuum. WDIK 1 OL REDNECK
DARRELL KRAFT I.I.#113
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The contact area for heat conduction has to be big and positive to work; the original exposed exhaust gas to the bottom of the intake casting rather than bolt 2 sealed boxes together face to face, yes?
What I saw in the grainy photo may not have been connected as it appeared and may have been something else.
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Panic, You have it right, the heat plate is bolted over the heat riser opening and the tubes from the front and rear header attaches to it. The pulses from the cylinders firing causes the hot exhaust to alternate back and forth heating the intake. As far as the pulses cancelling out at higher speed, that would seem like a plus to me. I wonder if Fenton engineered that or it was just a coincidence. NICSON headers used the same system. The FENTON heat riser manifold just has an open passage on the rear header.
Tim
Tim Tenold
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the heat feature
I know what it does, but how does it work on the Fenton?
Does it actually transfer exhaust gas to a chamber under the plenum, or just heat by conduction?
I've seen (old & dim) photos with a single connection between exhaust and intake, but it struck me that it won't do much if it's a dead end - I didn't see any way for the gas to circulate?
Jumping ahead: it can't just escape after passing through the intake chamber, and it won't flow back into the exhaust manifold unless you pick 2 spots on the exhaust with different levels of pressure.
A complicated thought: if the gas exits the front pipe, passes through a chamber below the plenum, and enters the rear pipe, the firing order at idle and low speed will give a slight pressure differential (the gas will flow back and forth as each pipe is "hot"). As speed increases the pulses will overlap and gas transfer through the intake will stop. It works just like the stove pipe works to the auto choke on the earlier 235's
Tom
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YEA! That's what I was trying to say- and he done it in 1 sentence. 1 OL REDNECK
DARRELL KRAFT I.I.#113
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that would seem like a plus to me
I agree - you don't need it when pulling hard - it gets hot enough!
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Not to nit-pik, but, the early automatic choke uses engine vaccuum from a small port in the carb to suck heated ambient air thru' a tube from the heat stove, into the choke housing, past a bi-metal coil that then relaxes to let the choke open.
Of course it might be fair to say it works just like the heat stove on the '63 up sixes that have the bi-metal coil on the manifold like the V8s.
Or I just might be wrong again.
Tim
Tim Tenold
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Not to nit-pik, but, the early automatic choke uses engine vaccuum from a small port in the carb to suck heated ambient air thru' a tube from the heat stove, into the choke housing, past a bi-metal coil that then relaxes to let the choke open.
Of course it might be fair to say it works just like the heat stove on the '63 up sixes that have the bi-metal coil on the manifold like the V8s.
Or I just might be wrong again.
Tim Yep - what he said
Tom
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Use two lines, not one.
Use compression fittings, and drill one out so that the tube can go into the exhaust flow. Scarf the end and it will work just like a road draft tube.
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