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Joined: Mar 2008
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I'm tearing down a 250 for rebuild. I'm pretty much a novice at this stuff so I have some basic questions.

1. I bought a gear puller kit to get the balancer off. But either I don't know how to use it, or I bought the wrong thing. The main "H" shaped bar doesn't seem to be long enough for the grabber arms to grab the edges of the balancer (the bar is about the same diameter of the balancer which is too short.) There are threaded holes in the balancer, but the kit doesn't seem to work with those either. Did I get the wrong thing?

[img]http://i571.photobucket.com/albums/ss155/smallpad/250%20teardown/Copyofoilpumpandmarkingrodends001sm.jpg?t=1234145214[/img]

[img]http://i571.photobucket.com/albums/ss155/smallpad/250%20teardown/oilpumpandmarkingrodends003.jpg?t=1234143933[/img]

Last edited by 67pete300; 02/08/09 11:07 PM.

67 Chevelle 300 2 door post
230 Inline six, 3 on the tree
58k Original miles
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still can't get the damn pictures to work. This is the only forum I have difficulty with pictures. The FAQ is no help. I can't figure it out.

I have more questions.


67 Chevelle 300 2 door post
230 Inline six, 3 on the tree
58k Original miles
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Guess I'll have a go without pictures.

2. Marking rods and rod ends. I have marked the rod ends. I think I have to mark the pistons and/or rods? I marked the rod ends by making 1 or 2 or 3... punch marks. Where would I mark the pistons and/or rods? This doesn't seem as obvious to me. Seems wrong to go punching holes in the top of the piston in the combustion chamber.


67 Chevelle 300 2 door post
230 Inline six, 3 on the tree
58k Original miles
Joined: Mar 2008
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3. Is there some reason to stop the teardown at the crank before I take it all to a machine shop? Or do I just go for broke and pull the crank too? I'm having fun taking stuff apart, but I'm trying to be a little careful and not create more cost/work.


67 Chevelle 300 2 door post
230 Inline six, 3 on the tree
58k Original miles
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First.....STOP. The puller shouldn't grab the balancer around the outer ring. They make an application specific Harmonic Balancer puller, and what you have is exactly what you said...a gear puller! The balancer puller attaches to the balancer where the pulley bolts up to. That way, you are pulling against the inner ring section of the balancer, and avoiding any damage to it. Also, to number the rods and caps,a sharp punch creates stress risers and can cause the rod to fail, just as you thought it will do to the pistons,you can go to Harbor Freight or Northern Tool and buy some inexpensive number punches. Just lightly tap the rod and cap with the number punch and hammer while its still on the crank. If your going to bore to the engine, theres no need to number the pistons, they will be thrown away anyway. If you can see or feel any ring groove in the top of the cylinders, it will need to be bored. Any teardown you can do yourself will save you from the machine shop from charging you to do it. Take a piece of fuel line to slip over the rod bolts before you push the rod and pistons out of the cylinders, that will keep you from nicking the crank unnecessarily upon teardown, and potentially making deep gouges in the journals.



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Thanks.

Just to be clear. It is a Chevy 250. So the balancer is the pulley. My chassis manual gives a specific GM tool number to do this. There has to be generic version?

Where do I get the device I need to remove the crank pulley?


67 Chevelle 300 2 door post
230 Inline six, 3 on the tree
58k Original miles
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Your local auto parts store should have it. You have to attach it to the 3 threaded hole in the inner part of the damper.

Larry


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67Pete,
You can checkout the balancer puller on the Sears website and see what it looks like. Look at the KD Tools Harmonic Balancer Puller
Sears item# 00999051000 Mfr. model# KDS2286. Do not use a gear puller or you will likely trash the balancer. Be sure to number your main bearing caps front to back 1 through 7.
The more tear down you do the more money you will save. Put your fasteners in zip lock bags and label the bags with a Sharpie marker.
Ken

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If you're going to reuse the pistons, write the number of the cylinder they came out of on the side of the piston with a Magic Marker or Sharpie after you've cleaned the pistons. Also, when you're taking bolts and nuts out of things, get containers like tuna fish cans, cat/dog food cans, soup cans, etc., etc., and put the nuts and bolt from each assembly you take off or out of the motor in separate cans or jars. When it's time to put the engine back together, all of your fasteners and other bits will be all in one place, and you'll avoid the dreaded "where does this thing go" syndrome. Just be sure to wash and dry all the cans or jars before you store bolts and/or nuts in them.


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67pete,
here are your pics. I managed to extract them from what you posted.
looks like a nice puller kit. BUT it looks like you need one of the plate variety,that has the 3 slots in it to put bolts into the 3 puller mount points in your balancer.if you want,I can post a pic of one such (home made) device.

pic # 1

pic # 2

regards,Rod

Last edited by walpolla; 02/12/09 07:34 AM.

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