logo
12 Port News - Features
12 Port History
Casting Numbers
Online Store
Tech Tips
Become a Member
Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Rate Thread
Page 3 of 4 1 2 3 4
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 368
Contributor
****
Offline
Contributor
****
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 368
If you are saying the thermostat housing uses a larger size hose than the radiator, many vehicles are like this. Just go to the auto parts and get the appropriate hose.

Tim


Tim Tenold
I.I.#498
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 104
D
Contributor
OP Offline
Contributor
D
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 104
I will check my local parts store to see if they have what I need.

I'll see if I have any aluminum plate to make a heat sink for the ignition module, if not I will just try using the heat sink compound. Hopefully with it being out in the open it will keep cool. Id still really like to get everything mounted inside the distributor.


So I guess it does not matter after what header flange I install the 02 sensor in?

Last edited by drummin52; 03/17/09 11:13 PM.

Chris
1952 Chevy 3600 (3/4 ton) pickup w/54 235
Clifford Intake w/ holley 4bbl carb
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 104
D
Contributor
OP Offline
Contributor
D
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 104
Oh and pictures coming soon.... Got the distributor done today, as well as a few more wires terminated. My college class was canceled this evening so I got alot more closer to being done that I had expected. My new fuel pump will be here tomorrow, I hope to have the fuel system installed this coming weekend. I have no class tomorrow so I plan to hopefully get all the remaining wiring done.


Im getting anxious and nervous as I get closer to turning the key, its the same feeling all over again from when I fired it up with the 4bbl carb.


Chris
1952 Chevy 3600 (3/4 ton) pickup w/54 235
Clifford Intake w/ holley 4bbl carb
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 83
Active BB Member
Offline
Active BB Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 83
TBI injected GM sixes, is it somebody who could give response on the function?
does the milage got lower? more torque, and power? Is it stabile, or lot of troubles with electric failures?
Lot of guys writes about the TBI convertion, but difficult to find querys about function on the use....

Did rework a TBI 4.3 to my inline, not mounted, wonders about trouble on the road, if something happends, youre stuck! with carbs you could trick it to reach garage,etc....


"if your car needs more than 2 hubcaps, it ainīt COOL"
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 104
D
Contributor
OP Offline
Contributor
D
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 104
Speaking from experience with other computerized fuel injection vehicles, Id say its very reliable. Certainly there will be some bugs to work out when adapting a setup from one vehicle to another, but even then I think there should be no problem as long as you do some homework and match some specs up. The way I think of it with adapting this 4.3L tbi setup to my 3.9L 235, how would the computer know that its not on its original home? Some of the input from the sensors might not be where they usually are at some times, but the computer, to some effect can adjust the outputs to change that. Of coarse if the computer has to start making huge changes to the outputs to where its getting to far from its comfort zone, it might throw a trouble code.

And also the thing with these computers, besides them (the earlier versions at least) being very basic, is if there is a problem, the computer will go into limp mode and using preset variables should work enough to get you home or to a garage. I would say sensors barely, if ever fail. The wiring can be a problem as the harness ages, and the problem is usually right at the connector as the wire gets brittle and breaks from vibrations and the connectors get corroded from not being completely sealed. Buying a new harness instead of using one from the donor, though pricey, can help avoid these problems.


Chris
1952 Chevy 3600 (3/4 ton) pickup w/54 235
Clifford Intake w/ holley 4bbl carb
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 104
D
Contributor
OP Offline
Contributor
D
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 104
The only major thing that I can think of that would leave you stuck on the side of the road would be a fired computer, which unless something really really bad happens is also very unlikely. Ive seen a few computers that had about every error possible show up on the scan, including the main cause of all of them, the code that basically says your computer is toast, and the vehicle still started and drove fine enough to get home.


Chris
1952 Chevy 3600 (3/4 ton) pickup w/54 235
Clifford Intake w/ holley 4bbl carb
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 2,123
Likes: 3
P
1000 Post Club
**
Offline
1000 Post Club
**
P
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 2,123
Likes: 3
how would the computer know that its not on its original home?

One of the problems is that the load (ohms) in the original harness is pre-set into the box (not a variable input from a sensor), as is the range of battery voltage and alternator/regulator output. There is also inductance in some vehicles from big stereos, ABS, etc.

I don't know any way to match this when wiring up an older vehicle since some of them are variable.
Most work very well, but the odd exception (including non year-correct factory parts in an original EFI car, aftermarket lamps, big stereo, alarm added) makes you wish carbs were back.

Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 104
D
Contributor
OP Offline
Contributor
D
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 104
I know about the load, for the O2 sensor Im leaving that wire the original length, which worked out anyways as it doesn't need to shortened at all. The other wires werent shortened all that much to were I would think it wouldn't make a difference. No more than a foot was taken out of most of the sensor wires.

For the most part, my truck is going to be a much like a new vehicle as far as electronics and extras with power windows, door poppers, power seats, alternator conversion, a nice stereo, up to date lighting, 12 volt conversion, etc.


Chris
1952 Chevy 3600 (3/4 ton) pickup w/54 235
Clifford Intake w/ holley 4bbl carb
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 104
D
Contributor
OP Offline
Contributor
D
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 104
got my fuel pump yesturday, should have the fuel lines and all in this weekend. A few grounds left to terminate and I still need to weld in the O2 sensor bung and install the O2 sensor. Other than that the conversion is nearing complete.

To be able start and run the engine for a while I need to finish my power steering pump install, which is only measuring, buying and installing the belts.

To be able to drive it, at least around the yard (far from road legal at the moment), I have to install my disc brake kit on the front axle, buy and install my wheels and tires, and also install my firewall mounted pedal assembly, booster, m/c and combination valve and then plumb all the brake lines and bleed the air out.

Maybe after this I should finish one project before starting another.


Chris
1952 Chevy 3600 (3/4 ton) pickup w/54 235
Clifford Intake w/ holley 4bbl carb
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 2,123
Likes: 3
P
1000 Post Club
**
Offline
1000 Post Club
**
P
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 2,123
Likes: 3
BTW: free benefit of having a pump in the tank is that the original fuel line may not need to be replaced with larger diameter except for really big engines.
The 45-60 positive psi increases the lbs. per minute by a huge amount, so don't regulate it down until you reach your fuel block because every line after the regulator has to be proportionate to power.

Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 104
D
Contributor
OP Offline
Contributor
D
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 104
some new pictures, starting at http://s175.photobucket.com/albums/w124/...nt=100_0795.jpg

this is up to where I am at right now. Should be done, if nothing else comes, this weekend. I need to get a new ignition switch as the one I bought is a piece of crap, for some reason when the key is in run, the start terminal is powered, and then goes off when I turn the key to start. Cheap crap I bought at autozone.


Chris
1952 Chevy 3600 (3/4 ton) pickup w/54 235
Clifford Intake w/ holley 4bbl carb
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 104
D
Contributor
OP Offline
Contributor
D
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 104
oh and don't laugh at the distributor and the hot glue. It works or at least I hope it will keep the water out.


Chris
1952 Chevy 3600 (3/4 ton) pickup w/54 235
Clifford Intake w/ holley 4bbl carb
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 269
J
Contributor
Offline
Contributor
J
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 269
I just used the stock ECM on mine. Joe

Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 104
D
Contributor
OP Offline
Contributor
D
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 104
what did you use it on?


Chris
1952 Chevy 3600 (3/4 ton) pickup w/54 235
Clifford Intake w/ holley 4bbl carb
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 104
D
Contributor
OP Offline
Contributor
D
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 104
Just thinking of stuff to do/finish before I start her up...Is there anything I can do to fool the computer into thinking the egr valve is still plugged in, a resistor in line or something. Im just thinking that if I leave it missing and go to start it up that I will always have a engine light on and be in limp mode because the computer does not see the egr valve. Id like to be able to see if any other problems come up and see the light turn on when something pops its head out.



Just about done. Wiring is 99% complete, all that is left is the check engine light, I have the other wiring nicely coverd in wire loom. I ordered a much better igniton switch from summit, way better than the $6 piece of crap I bought locally. O2 sensor bung is welded in, picking up a new O2 sensor and a coolant temp sensor tonight. Fuel line is somewhat ran, I bent some 3/8" and 5/16" hard line for in the engine compartment, starts on the passenger side frame, up along the firewall, over to the driver side and down to the tbi unit. Supply and return lines are ran, just need to pick up some more insulated clamps to secure them to the frame. Calling lokar tonight to see about a cable end to connect my lokar throttle cable to the tbi unit.


Chris
1952 Chevy 3600 (3/4 ton) pickup w/54 235
Clifford Intake w/ holley 4bbl carb
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 269
J
Contributor
Offline
Contributor
J
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 269
54 GMC 302 engine.

Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,805
Likes: 1
E
1000 Post Club
*****
Offline
1000 Post Club
*****
E
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,805
Likes: 1
Chris,

The EGR won't cause it to go into limp home mode. It might turn the check engine light on if your on the highway, I'm reasonably sure that it uses the O2 sensor to look for a change in the exhaust O2 content after it opens the EGR valve.

Use the fuel pump enable connector to pressurize the fuel system before trying to start it. Cold motor + fuel leak == low risk of fire. Also I suggest you leave the set timing connector unplugged so it starts on base timing. This separates the ign/fuel system so if you have any issues it'll be fuel only. The distributor module will fire the coil OK. The ecm only needs the dist. reference low&high signal and coolant sensor during cranking. The rest is don't care until it get into run mode.

One good thing with TBI is you can see if the injectors are spraying fuel.

Once it fired the first time even for 30 seconds or so you can plug the set timing connector together after you check your base timing. Usually somewhere around 5-10 BTDC works.

Last edited by efi-diy; 03/23/09 11:49 PM.

51 GMC 4.2 turbo
Can't solved today's problems using the same technology/thinking that created them
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 104
D
Contributor
OP Offline
Contributor
D
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 104
OK Thanks, I will remember that when I go to start it up.

On my 235 there is a ball bearing on the flywheel and a pointer in a opening in the bell housing. When these two line up its suppose to be at tdc or at least near it (its a on going debate on some forums). Making sure its on the right cycle, I spun the crank until these two lined up. As long as its not 180deg out, it should be close enough to start. Do it adjust it to where it idles smooth or will the computer do that.


Chris
1952 Chevy 3600 (3/4 ton) pickup w/54 235
Clifford Intake w/ holley 4bbl carb
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 104
D
Contributor
OP Offline
Contributor
D
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 104
OK I'm getting there

Fuel lines are done, definitely one of the more time consuming "to do" items for the conversion. Some pictures
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w124/rockfan1815/final%20tbi%20conversion%20pics/100_0873.jpg
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w124/rockfan1815/final%20tbi%20conversion%20pics/100_0871.jpg
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w124/rockfan1815/final%20tbi%20conversion%20pics/100_0868.jpg
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w124/rockfan1815/final%20tbi%20conversion%20pics/100_0869.jpg

I ordered some heat tape to wrap the fuel lines that go over the intake and exhaust manifolds. I may also put some type of shield that if any fuel does start to leak, it will go away from the manifolds.

the O2 sensor
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w124/rockfan1815/final%20tbi%20conversion%20pics/100_0862.jpg

and the finished wiring
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w124/rockfan1815/final%20tbi%20conversion%20pics/100_0855.jpg
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w124/rockfan1815/final%20tbi%20conversion%20pics/100_0854.jpg
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w124/rockfan1815/final%20tbi%20conversion%20pics/100_0853.jpg
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w124/rockfan1815/final%20tbi%20conversion%20pics/100_0852.jpg

For the most part the conversion is done. Before I start it I have a few more things I need to finish. I need to weld in some exhaust flex pipes in after the header flanges.
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w124/rockfan1815/100_0867.jpg (like my model 1952 chevy pickup)

I need to install my new ignition switch and I also ordered two magnaflow mufflers that Id like to install as soon as I get them.

I bought a piston stop so I can put timing marks on the crank pulley instead of using the flywheel and bell housing method for initial timing. I also need to get the belts so I will be able to run it for a bit longer than a few minutes.

Other than those its just about done.

Last edited by drummin52; 03/26/09 11:37 PM.

Chris
1952 Chevy 3600 (3/4 ton) pickup w/54 235
Clifford Intake w/ holley 4bbl carb
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 5,009
Likes: 46
1000 Post Club
****
Offline
1000 Post Club
****
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 5,009
Likes: 46
Chris, Great pictures and progress! You are really making it happen! I'm still locked into the laptop war. I'm finally on line with it and just got the Megatune stuff down loaded. Good luck!! Tom


"I wonder if God created man because he was disappointed in the monkey?" Mark Twain
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 104
D
Contributor
OP Offline
Contributor
D
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 104
Thanks



Well I ran into bit of a problem, I wanted to purge the fuel lines to make sure I didn't have any leaks before I started it up for the first time. So I hooked up a wire (with a 20amp fuse) to the positive post on the battery and connected the other end to the positive wire on the fuel pump and.................NOTHING...well almost, the pump makes a click, more like a clank and that is it. I unhooked the rubber fuel line where it connects to the line I have on the firewall and tired it again and once again all I got was a clank noise.

I believe this is a solenoid type pump. It will continue to make a clanking noise each time I apply power, but thats it. Guess I will have to call carter up and see what they say.

Last edited by drummin52; 03/29/09 06:17 PM.

Chris
1952 Chevy 3600 (3/4 ton) pickup w/54 235
Clifford Intake w/ holley 4bbl carb
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,805
Likes: 1
E
1000 Post Club
*****
Offline
1000 Post Club
*****
E
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,805
Likes: 1
Chris

Do you have a good ground for the pump.. ? Run a 12ga wire to the block for the fuel pump gnd. Then try the pump again.


51 GMC 4.2 turbo
Can't solved today's problems using the same technology/thinking that created them
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 104
D
Contributor
OP Offline
Contributor
D
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 104
OK I was going to wait until tomorrow to figure this out but just couldn't sit still.....

I tried a few things and nothing worked so I removed the pump completely thinking I was going to have to send it back. I said what the hell and decided to see what would happen if I connected it directly to another 12v battery I had in the garage and it came to life. That had me stumped. I reinstalled the pump with a few changes to the plumbing and will wait till tomorrow to finish and try it again. I need to resolder the power wire to the pump wire. I am going to put a better (lack of a better word) ground strap from the bell housing to the frame rail. Originally I had tested for continuity from the frame rail to the battery and it seemed fine, but I didn't really have a ground strap to the frame rail at the moment (it was in the plans). Before I try again tomorrow I am going to put a 8 gauge ground strap from the bell housing (where the battery ground connects to) to the frame rail. Hopefully that is what the problem is.


Chris
1952 Chevy 3600 (3/4 ton) pickup w/54 235
Clifford Intake w/ holley 4bbl carb
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 104
D
Contributor
OP Offline
Contributor
D
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 104
anyways, hopefully (as long as I solve my pump problem) I plan to start her up no later than next weekend.

I made some last minute exhaust mods, welded in some flex joints and ordered 2 magnaflow mufflers that will be here tomorrow. I also got some heat tape so I can wrap the fuel lines that run over the intake and exhaust manifolds.



A question on the aldl connector. What wires are required to talk to the ecm with a laptop/tuner. Just the two wires that go directly to the computer? Currently I have the ground wire, the two data wires and the fuel pump test wire. There is a wire that is connected to the check engine light wire from the computer, is that required?

thanks


Chris
1952 Chevy 3600 (3/4 ton) pickup w/54 235
Clifford Intake w/ holley 4bbl carb
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 104
D
Contributor
OP Offline
Contributor
D
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 104
Took some 8 gauge wire that I had, soldered some copper 5/16" and 3/8" lugs on and installed them from the bell housing to the right and left frame rails, put power to the fuel pump and it came to life. I had the fuel line disconnected where it connects to the hard line I have on the firewall, and emptying into a gas can. Reconnected it and checked for fuel leaks. All was good.

Currently painting the mufflers I got, once I install them and wire in a switched accessory relay so I don't fry another ignition switch and also wrap the fuel lines with heat tape where they pass over the exhaust and intake manifolds, and I should be ready to start her up (fingers crossed).

Also going to load the tuner program on my laptop and change the setting for the egr.


Chris
1952 Chevy 3600 (3/4 ton) pickup w/54 235
Clifford Intake w/ holley 4bbl carb
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 104
D
Contributor
OP Offline
Contributor
D
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 104

ITS ALIVE, ITS ALIVE

Working on uploading a video of it running, will post it when its finished. Currently it idles a bit high at around 900 or so. Not sure how to correct this???

Otherwise seems to run very nice. Starts up instantly and idles quite smooth.

Last edited by drummin52; 04/05/09 05:43 PM.

Chris
1952 Chevy 3600 (3/4 ton) pickup w/54 235
Clifford Intake w/ holley 4bbl carb
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,411
N
1000 Post Club
*****
Offline
1000 Post Club
*****
N
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,411
Cool.

Which throttle body(s) did you wind up with?

Are you using an electronic idle air control of some kind?


My, what a steep learning curve. Erik II#5155
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 104
D
Contributor
OP Offline
Contributor
D
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 104
presenting the video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XxuSGXqGnf0

I used a throttle body injection unit off of a 4.3L v6. It has a idle air control valve built in.


Chris
1952 Chevy 3600 (3/4 ton) pickup w/54 235
Clifford Intake w/ holley 4bbl carb
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 5,009
Likes: 46
1000 Post Club
****
Offline
1000 Post Club
****
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 5,009
Likes: 46
Chris, Good going! You should have looked into the camera so we could see the big smile on your face. Does it feel like it will be drivable? What tuning will you be able to do? That is great! You are an inspiration!


"I wonder if God created man because he was disappointed in the monkey?" Mark Twain
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,805
Likes: 1
E
1000 Post Club
*****
Offline
1000 Post Club
*****
E
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,805
Likes: 1
Well done! Sounds like the tune is close.

Last edited by efi-diy; 04/06/09 01:53 AM.

51 GMC 4.2 turbo
Can't solved today's problems using the same technology/thinking that created them
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 104
D
Contributor
OP Offline
Contributor
D
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 104
thanks for the compliments guys.....believe me I was jumping high and smiling ear to ear when I got it to start. For the past few weeks I was nervous about how it would run, not sure if this was a good idea or not. Of coarse there is more as I probably won't find out about any problems until I run it a few times and get it up to temp, but Im ready for anything it throws at me.


Chris
1952 Chevy 3600 (3/4 ton) pickup w/54 235
Clifford Intake w/ holley 4bbl carb
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 104
D
Contributor
OP Offline
Contributor
D
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 104
Im looking at about 3 weeks at the high end, till Im able to drive it. Installing my disc brake kit today then comes the lines.


Chris
1952 Chevy 3600 (3/4 ton) pickup w/54 235
Clifford Intake w/ holley 4bbl carb
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 104
D
Contributor
OP Offline
Contributor
D
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 104
 Originally Posted By: efi-diy
Well done! Sounds like the tune is close.


thanks, and another thanks for all your advice (not just to you but to everyone that added something as well)

Im putting together a tech tip that will be hosted on the stovebolt site and plan to have a list of all the sites I went to when planning out the conversion. Would you have a problem with me putting a link to your site?


Chris
1952 Chevy 3600 (3/4 ton) pickup w/54 235
Clifford Intake w/ holley 4bbl carb
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 104
D
Contributor
OP Offline
Contributor
D
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 104
I worked on it a bit more today. Working out the bugs that come with doing something like this.

I believe its getting a bit more fuel than needed. It starts up nice, runs nice, revs nice but when I let it idle for a long period it starts to struggle. Nice thing about fuel injection is that it won't let the engine die. I took the air cleaner off and from the top you can watch the idle air control valve (IAC) coming to save the day. When the engine starts to see it struggle, it opens up the IAC and the rpms pick back up, then repeats and it continues to do this unitl I shut it off or rev it. Revs fine even when its doing this. Took the spark plugs out and they seem a bit wet, not horribly, but wet. The spark plugs are black, mostly because of the 4bbl. This week I'm going back to the u-pull-it yard and will pickup a 2.8L injector unit to see if it corrects the problem.

Also have to get a can of starter fluid to see if there are any vacuum leaks around the adapter plate I made to mount the TBI unit.

Last edited by drummin52; 04/08/09 07:42 PM.

Chris
1952 Chevy 3600 (3/4 ton) pickup w/54 235
Clifford Intake w/ holley 4bbl carb
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 104
D
Contributor
OP Offline
Contributor
D
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 104
OK, have a question. Can't quite tell from just watching, but I was wondering if the computer fires both injectors at the same time or one after the other or ???

I was thinking, what would happen if I unplugged one of the injectors? I still plan to try the 2.8 injectors, won't get to the yard until saturday though.

Anything else I should try from the 2.8?


Edit: did a bit of researching and comparing of my wiring diagram to a 2.8L V6 diagram from a 88-92 s10 and the wiring is the same, so when I go to the yard for the injector unit, I am also going to pickup a 2.8L computer.

This leads me to my next question, do I also need a 02 sensor from a 2.8 or will the one I have work and what about the map sensor, grab one too?

Last edited by drummin52; 04/08/09 09:48 PM.

Chris
1952 Chevy 3600 (3/4 ton) pickup w/54 235
Clifford Intake w/ holley 4bbl carb
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,805
Likes: 1
E
1000 Post Club
*****
Offline
1000 Post Club
*****
E
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,805
Likes: 1
Chris,

Depending on the calibration the injectors could fire alternating or together.

You can try unplugging 1 injector - it may be lean. Get the calpak from the 2.8.

Everything else is the same.

For tuning it would be a real good idea to buy a wideband 02 sensor so you know which way you are going.

Just as an aside - this is where tuning the GM ecm gets awkward - no data logging capacity.


51 GMC 4.2 turbo
Can't solved today's problems using the same technology/thinking that created them
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 104
D
Contributor
OP Offline
Contributor
D
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 104
thanks

Does the calpak have to come from the same model ecm (1227747). The 2.8l's from 88-92 had a different model # ecm (1228062) wiring is the same though.

http://chevythunder.com/gm_throttle_body_injection_pg_1.htm
looking at the ecm list, maybe I should also look for a 3.1L not sure what truck that came in.


Chris
1952 Chevy 3600 (3/4 ton) pickup w/54 235
Clifford Intake w/ holley 4bbl carb
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 104
D
Contributor
OP Offline
Contributor
D
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 104
Ok did some more researching and thinking. The 3.1L which uses the same 2bbl tbi220 unit came in the 91-93 chevy lumina, 89-92 olds silhouette and 91-93 pontiac trans-sport. The wiring, like the 2.8 is also the same as the 4.3

I may buy at the yard 1 2.8 injector unit/pod, 1 2.8 computer, 1 3.1 injector pod and 1 3.1 computer and do some mixing and matching. A nice thing about the 3.1 computer is that it has a trigger wire for a cooling fan relay. Not sure if I should also get the 2.8 computer or not. The yard charges about $20 for computers. 3.1 is probably a bit closer than the 2.8 and the fan relay trigger is a plus.

I can try a few different combinations
4.3 computer with 2.8 injector pod
4.3 computer with 3.1 injector pod
3.1 computer with 3.1 injector pod
3.1 computer with 2.8 injector pod
3.1 computer with 4.3 injector pod
2.8 computer with 2.8 injector pod
2.8 computer with 3.1 injector pod
2.8 computer with 4.3 injector pod

anyone know or can get the specs on the 2.8, 3.1 and 4.3 injectors

not sure what sensors and that will interchange, I imagine the IAC, TPS and CTS won't make a difference, MAP might need to be changed and MAYBE??? the O2 sensor.

I also read somewhere that the vac port on the MAP must be pointing down. TRUE?

Last edited by drummin52; 04/09/09 10:36 PM.

Chris
1952 Chevy 3600 (3/4 ton) pickup w/54 235
Clifford Intake w/ holley 4bbl carb
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,805
Likes: 1
E
1000 Post Club
*****
Offline
1000 Post Club
*****
E
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,805
Likes: 1
http://www.diy-efi.org/gmecm/component_info/tbi_injectors.html

ALL the sensors are common - no need to change any of them if you keep the same TBI housing. There are 2 different TPS connectors and they don't interchange. The entire calibration differences are in the cal pacs.


Last edited by efi-diy; 04/10/09 03:38 AM.

51 GMC 4.2 turbo
Can't solved today's problems using the same technology/thinking that created them
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 104
D
Contributor
OP Offline
Contributor
D
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 104
Thanks

from what I understand the calpacs from a 2.8 or 3.1 can not be installed in the 747 ecm as that ecm was only for 4.3L and up. Otherwise the ecms though different #'s, wiring wise are the same.

Yeah I am keeping the same TBI housing, just taking the injector assembly on top.


Chris
1952 Chevy 3600 (3/4 ton) pickup w/54 235
Clifford Intake w/ holley 4bbl carb
Page 3 of 4 1 2 3 4

Moderated by  stock49, Twisted6, will6er 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Who's Online Now
0 members (), 65 guests, and 21 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Newest Members
Ryan Clark, chevy454, TCH54, beansprout01, GH60
6,777 Registered Users
Sponsored Advertisement
Sponsored Advertisement
This Space is Available
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 7.7.5