Inliners International Forums General Discussion Engines Need Help with 292 rebuild project

I have a 67 Chevy Longwide with a 292 L6, and the motor is long-overdue for a rebuild. Stock it put out 170HP and 275 lb/ft tq. I want to rebuild it modified to get about 250-280 HP and 350-400 lb/ft tq, but I´m operating on a budget. Any ideas on mods? Some things I´m thinking are a Crane Cam, Offenhauser 4-barrel intake manifold and Edelbrock Carb, Headman Header and turbo exhaust. If I can find a set for this engine I´d like to get Ross Pistons as well. I know they´re high but they have great performance and I want the name because my name is Ross :pimp: . Any ideas on other mods? Any help is GREATLY appreciated

hello...good question-but better than that is comment that Jesus loves you-thanks......
From my 0ver 25 years of working on Chevy 250 and 292's, i have found the MOST impressive performance gainer is to modify head with some form of Lump Port in Intake Port.....This seems to be a very touchy issue here on this Forum, but if you do not have a good flowing head, NO Other engine modifications will add as much as this....I truely do not understand why so many keep doing the same thing over and over expecting different results-but then again i do-I thought all the headers, cams, bigger carbs, and more Compression would change these engines , but until i was taught how to modify these heads, I just didnt "get it"...these stock heads work-they flow air- but until you change HOW they flow air,not much will change engine performance-.....I am sure there will be Many responses to this great question you have-I wasted lots of $$$$ on these engines till i found out about this and hope I can be of help to those you might appreciate this info....sounds like a fun, great project you have....

Lee

There is one persons experience, if you click on Links at left of this page, then on Automotive heading, then on Rebuilding the 292: parts 1-2-3.

nice comment Newby and its very good to point out options- I saw this article years ago when it came out-again, you can do what is there and have a better than stock engine....Let me ask this direct question to you Newby and those interested? ..Do you understand the relationship to head airflow and camshaft design and engine performance? Do you understand lift and duration?....From my research and those that have done it also, you can find that these heads WILL NOT flow well with the Intake boss in the port...you you add bigger valves and remove the boss you will flow less than using the stock 1.72 valve and a lump port modification....Also if you do not modify the head with lumps in the intake head port, you might as well not buy a cam that has over .400 lift because these heads do not flow over .400 lift without modification-NO matter what cam you use-MANY have tested this... why do u think GM used a .386 lift cam in the 250's and a .406 lift cam in the 292's? they knew these heads just could not flow anymore so why put bigger cam in?( 292 has a little more lift due to longer stroke able to draw in more air-.020)Look at Isky cams-they have done there homework and they have VERY little lift even on their race cams... you can either trust me and others who have done head testing and engine performance or just do what you think what works-Yes, lots of things can work, but do you think some things work better? Have you tried any major head work and seen the difference how the engine performs?....I am only sharing this info for those that want to know it and hopefully accept it.....

Hi Lee, Am in total agreement and you are absolutely correct. The intake port obstruction is the bottleneck on this air pump,and the lumps provide the velocity as well as the smaller valves unshrouding the chamber. One example where bigger is not better. Would be interesting to get a valve size/air flow efficiency percentage.BTW, Jesus is my Saviour also.

Interesting comments. I'd until now kinda over looked the lump port as something that was a little beyond asperations. Looking again though it might very well be something I should look at again. I've never read much before about not going to larger valves. Makes some sense though.

First and foremost - thanks for all the replies. It´s also nice to see that I have brothers that know what they´re doing when it comes to engine mods . Anyway I have changed goals slightly. After looking at Ross Pistons prices , and re-evaluating this truck´s duties, I decided against Ross Pistons and I decided I´d rather have the engine run just slightly better than stock with 200 HP and 300 lb/ft tq. I feel that these goals are a lot more obtainable and reasonable considering this truck is going to be a daily driver, and a lot easier on my pocketbook . Which leads me to my next questions: What kind of headwork would you recommend and how much does it generally cost? I realize it varies a lot by machinist, condition of head, etc. I´m just looking for rough estimates. Also do you think I could obtain my goal with some headwork, new cam, 4-barrel intake/carb, header, and exhaust? Thanx.

Spiderman

Take the money you will Save by not buying the Ross pistons and Put that money into the head. Say with the stock valve size. Have a 3 or 4 angle valve job Done. Have the Boss Removed and have the Lump Installed to the port go with a 500-550 lift cam. go with the Offey intake And you will have a VERY Good low end Power & tork to mid range(5000-6000 rpms depending on cam you chose) Also step up to a HEI along with the headers(or Stovebolts) With this should be a very happy combo
for you & your Truck. And at a Later Time when the bucks let You. You can always go back and Make the bigger valve up Grade.
But always Keep in mind to try and keep things Matched the Best that you can. (head ,cam, compression, Headers. And YOU'll be a Happy Inliner.

As for a ball park on Price for head work anything from 1000.Bucks on Up. The more you do OR want done The more it will cost.

Hope this Helps }[oooooo]

PS It is in your BEST Interest To find someone The has Built Our L6s Or Knows about Our Heads If Not you can end up wasting Money When it comes to the HEAD work because it wouldn't take much for One who knows Nothing about Our Head to end Up Hitting Water. I know I have spent countless Hrs. Cutting Heads for Photos & doing Lump port work on these Heads myself. You can Look at some Photos I have already Posted to the Web And I have much more to add .As soon as I get a chance. I have Been Very Busy Out running Storms/hurricanes here in Fla. So if you need any other Help Just Yell Thats what we are here for.

Spiderman.

Ditto to what Twisted6 said. I have similar to the combo you have. Keep in mind that the 292 never produced 175 real HP in stock form. About 110-120 true net HP is about as good as it got. Especially after '71.

So you're looking for an increase of about 67% over stock. Quite hefty. I have the Offenhauser intake, Edelbrock 500 cfm 4 barrel, HEI ignition, headers, a mild Elgin cam and a .060 overbore on my 292. I guesstimate about 170-180 real HP. If I had to do over again I would install LPG pistons to bump up the compression ratio. Probably a 10-15 HP increase just on compression alone.

The only way to get the 292 to turn impressive HP numbers without nitrous, turbo or supercharging is to turn high rpms. (6000-7000 or more). HP in that range from a 292 don't come cheap!

-magic mike-

When I posted HP & TQ goals, I was talking flywheel. Anyway the numbers aren´t too important the main thing is the head. Is there anybody that produces or sells a head for this engine that already has the valvework done? That would help a LOT. Also the engine has an electronic distributor already, but I don´t know what kind. The guy that had the truck before my put it and an alternator on the pickup. Also later on down the road I might convert it to FI and add a Turbo if funds allow (WAY down the road).

Sissell's Automotive can do as much (or as little) as you want to your head. Check out their website.

http://www.sissellsautomotive.com

-magic mike-

spiderman Off hand i don't know of anyone who has the Heads Built and just sitting on a shelf. Because there are so many ways(combos) the head can be built. Because of the wide slection of cams. I don't even think Mike Kirby,PES has heads sitting around like that. They are normaly build on a as needed bases.I myself do not have heads sitting here that way. But I do have a few that are of the stock valving with the Bosses already Removed and In prep for the Lump ports. But like anyone else I/they will need the cam spects to set the head up for the right springs. I have been working on a head & cam Combo. And i am looking at more of a Hot Street combo/s with lumps installed. cams with a 500-550
(maybe a little taller profiles) lifts with stock Or 1.8 intake valves which will help keep some MPGs Over the 1.94 intakes But i would not give up a head with Out a Good Core(Head).Because to many are being crushed at the scrap yards.

Sorry Guys i will Not do business on the Board.
If you have any other Questions On this PLEASE Email me.

hope this helps }[oooooo]

very interesting.....Seems things really havnt changed here much.....I patiently waited to see what was said here.....and wow this is very disappointing from this Inliners group....
very disappointing.....There are those NOT based in California that actually build these heads that flow MUCH MUCH better than California heads-Contact me by email and I can help you do this the BEST way , not just a way that works- and i am not even referring to myself.....Seems Lump in port are only about 40-50% of performance increase in these heads...Changing location of ports-raising both Intake and exhaust ports- opening chamber (NOT making smaller ) and the valve design used, account for the other 50-60% increase in Performance.....its amazing what you will find out when you actually work on these heads....If you havent worked on these heads, you just dont know

magic mike
I will also add to your post about Mike Kirbys web site. He also has a new alum head which Is a very Nice Street head which Is well worth the money. Which has a little small port and now has water ports (Over The alum race head he has) And to my understanding is a very good flowing street Head But can make for a nice Hot Street motor. I'm not sure of the cost. But i myself wouldn't mind having either one )

And what is it you find interesting Lee. The Heads i have Well first off they are not mine. They are somebody else who wanted the Bosses Removed from 4 heads. And Yes Isky does have some lower lift cams for the 194,230,250 ranging from a 450 488 492 510 hyd. and solids 525,572,591,Roller 525 590 690 lifts As for the 292s well only solid cams showing at this time from 410 ,428 525 558.

also why do you feel the lump ports are a touchy subject on this board? Not many people here have spent time flowing the heads like you and I have. and still many don't even know about them let alone what they can to do for the performance of these heads. That is also why I have taken the time and money to get Cracked Heads to cut up.And Flow them.And to get photos and everything else up on to a web site for other to see, And NOT run into mistakes by hitting the water jackets Or get the walls to thin. And How to install the Lumps. And how to blend them to the ports. I'm not doing this just for myself But to Help others.I also have photos from other Inliners. So if you want to help.? Send some stuff and We'll Get this stuff up so everyone can see it.I didn't pay for a web site for nothing ya know.and if your that disappointed well I don't know what to tell ya. But that their is No reason we all can't work together and Get that stuff put up.

Voicing my 2cent worth. }[oooooo]

Indeed, some things haven't changed...Lee Lites, I am going to put this in a nice way. If you can contribute any solid, credible information, incliding photos, dyno numbers, ET/MPH records, then you are most welcome to do so. Until then, you will refrain from using this board as an outlet for your unsupported theories, criticism of others, thinly-veiled self-promotion and name-dropping. To be very direct: knock it off, play within the spirit of the rules, or your posts will be gone and so will you.

Lee the heads Mike has is a raised port for the most part. The intake comes in near the top of the head at a angle Down into the port. That is also why you would need to either make your own intake Or buy one from mike kirby. Because the stock,Offey,clifford intakes would Not fit.The race head. And about the only thing i know about the this newwer head is it does have some what of a smaller port size and It now has water going into it.I know it is better to get the air into the head straight down the best that you can By rasieing the whole intake floor Like what mike kirby has done with the Alum head.

Ok guys I'm sorry this turned into another heated issue. But it is not. The heads do need some work other then just a lump. But the lump is just The begainning Intake (and exhaust side)The straigther one can get the air to flow over the valves the better and the less shrouding around the Valves the better That is why Bigger is Not always better. I have seen heads from stock to Even 202 valves in these heads Yes even a 202 and the car runs Very well. But yes it took some work to unshroud the valves. even on some heads People have Off set the valves. Heads have even Been angle cut to increase comp and to help in the way the head may flow. But with angle cutting the head the Bolts/Push rod holes all have to be Recut and the surface for the head bolts. But it is also known that the Vthing heads are another way to go But that to comes at a very high price.and a lot of extra work. the head as well as the block.
So weather it be a vthing or our L6s it's all about money and what one can afford to spend.That is why most of us spend a little at a time till we have all the we need then start building.and if one has a lot of money the less time it takes to build anything right LOL

Ok let get back to some fun }[oooooo]

hello...well Jack you do what u feel YOU need to do...I Only come here to offer Real experience and what works Best-at 1 time i offered to send you 1 of my heads so you could see it, have it checked it by whom ever you chose and have it flowed...you turned me down and said you wouldnt even know anything about this head.....If you think its in the best interest of this group to ban me ,well, do it...It would only hurt those here who want to hear what works and what doesnt-Why dont you ask those that visit this Forum for info-I have received emails from many -even when I left for a while- and even now- ...Most find it great that i can share what i have done and am sorry I am shown disrespect here....ask those who what to know about this.....as far as credible info, what is it you want- I will meet you at a flow shop when you are ready and lets see what I can show you-I had results here 1 time and MANY said it couldnt be true soooo... what can i do to win? Just give in to those who want to just flex their muscles or share true data....
Why dont you ask those here who wants me to leave...I wouldnt have a problem if the majority said go..its ok....and i will say this Jack...the last time I spoke with Leo on the phone, he told me I should join Inliners and share my knowlegde because he has heard me say many things I have found about about these engines and many here could benefit from my knowledge...I said I will when the time is right....

You are missing the point entirely. Re-read my post. Until you can show some real world results from your work, your subtle demeaning and cricism of others - who have proven their products and have the dyno numbers and race records to prove it - have zero credibility in this venue.

You (and other visitors to this site) are probably not aware that Inliners International has a Race Director, a rules committee, and a full set of class rules for drag racing (viewable on the racing link to the left). Every issue of the 12 Port News contains the latest class records. These records are tightly contested and a source of pride for our racers. Sissell, Kirby, Corbett, Barile and Bertolucci - to name a few - are the guys who get the results, and their numbers speak for themselves.

It's not my role, or that of Inliners International, to do any product testing or validation of claims. Real world numbers speak for themselves. Airflow results are nice to talk about, but aren't the whole story.

Unfortunately Leelites that's not a choice that you or other Inliners can make. You have to agree with the owners' rules or leave. It's not a matter of what you consider "fair", it's what the owners say. This may sound harsh but it's reality.

Try asking a cop to let you off the hook if the majority thinks you're innocent next time you get stopped for a traffic violation and see what he says. Same thing goes here, only the penalty is not jail.

I have talked with you in the past and I think you are full of great knowledge regarding inline engines. You just seem at times to have a difficult time laying out your ideas/comments without making some unneccesarily critical remarks about others.

-magic mike-

I've been watching this converstion with much interest.
Without sounding too political or biased, let's just throw out the information and take what you want and not start bickering on what someone said has been proved by actual time slips and records. LeeLites has never said "this is what you should do". He's just like the rest of us trying and sharing things. If his words sound a bit purposeful, it's just his "Passion" for the hobby and his extensive work he's done. I've never met Lee, but I'll bet you a fully restored Tri-power set-up, he's no different or better than the rest of us. Nobody can deny he has done a lot of work in these areas of flowing heads. I for one don't understand half of the technical stuff and usually shoot from the hip and use my eye for details. I'm sure a lot us fall into that category. Let's not curb the enthusiasm that our members bring to this forum for the sake of hurting someone's feelings. We are all mature here, right? If you don't agree with something, it's your right to say so and challenge anything you want. Just make sure you can validate your information. If you can't, you will be found out.

If you think the end results of wrenching and research is the fastest times, or the most HP, or the coolest looking car, you're in it for all the wrong reasons. It's all about being able to exchange ideas and information with others just like you. There will always be folks with more and less abilities and experiance than us, but none can ever take your desire to enjoy the hobby in your garage away from you.

RapRap
1940 ChoppedChevyCoupe

akhem... Anyway I think I'm gonna pull the motor and put a 250 in the truck until I can get the 292 built. That way I can still drive the truck, since it's my daily driver, also my only 4-wheeled vehicle

Chopped
Very well put. and thats I was trying to say. but i guess my wording was a bit wrong. There is no Reason we can't share what we have been doing.
}[oooooo]

umm....wow. thats all i say. wow.
no comment.
good job on the 250 tho spider. it'll do nicely until you get the brute done.

Samwise.

Chopped, you should be in the White House!! It's just like the radio, if you don't want to hear what is on that channel or read what is in that post, go on to something else. Well said, that must be because you also drive a '40 Chev and we are a pretty good group of outstanding people.!!!!!LOL

I'm with you,Jack. Lee may know what he is talking about, but it just sounds like a lot of hot air. A lot of talk, but not any concrete information. Joe

So this must be the D port thing that has been used in big block chevies for a while,it makes sense to me anyway and I am not taking sides either.Just want some more info.

Actually I haven't got the 250 yet. I guess I shoulda said I PLAN on pulling it and putting in a 250 (lol). I'm still looking for a 250, but I haven't been looking very hard :p . I'm moving tomorrow, so please pray for me that the truck will make the journey (about 60 miles), 'cuz the engine does still run. Anyway y'all have a Great day and God Bless you!

"pray for me that the truck will make the journey "

Lol, I'm cheering for you!

Some very interesting replies have been posted, but most have nothing to do with what spiderman ask. Magic Mike is the only one that is on the same line. I think the man is talking about a pickup truck. I have a '67 GMC 3/4 with a 292 and it sits on the scales at 4600 pounds(without my butt).
If anything can be said about a stock 292 is that it has real good low end torque. I suspect that is why GM intended them for trucks. Building a 6000-7000 rpm high HP engine can be done by sacrificing the 292's best virtue. Low rpm pulling power. Replacing a 2000rpm engine in a truck with 4.56 gears with a 6000rpm engine would beg for 4.88 or 5.13 gears. I don't think that is what he had in mind.
I rebuilt my 292 this past winter with the idea that I wanted to improve the low rpm end only and with reasonable investment. I used the LPG(propane) pistons for 9:1 compression. They are 50 grams heavier than stock and I can't imagine anyone wanting to run them even above 4000. The valves are 1.5/1.94. A lot of reasons for this. Many previous valve jobs had sunk the intakes too low. Installing seats would have cost more than 1.94 three angle with blended pocket. 1.72 and 1.94 valves are the same price. 1.94 valve would let more air in without increasing the lift.
I was looking at the Corvette TPI V8 engine (L98 used from '85-'91) and it uses 1.5/1.94 valves. Compared to other stock Corvette engines this one is known best for its bottom end torque. The stock TPI engine actually runs out of wind before 5000.
The stock cam is 188/188 and I wanted to go just slightly longer. 194/204 is similar to the one magic mike has only I got mine (are you ready for this) from Pep Boys. A bigger cam would start taking away from the bottom end. A bigger cam would call for bigger springs and that increases friction, increases oil temp, robs power and cost more.
I did go with aluminum roller rockers, but not because I expected any power gain. Maybe at 6000rpm, but not at 2000. The original rockers showed to be swiping unevenly across the top of the valve stem and caused a lot of side wear on the valve guides. The rollers gave me near perfect alignment.
Long tube headers, Clifford intake, GM HEI (running with stock ballast resistor) and Carter AVS is the rest of it.
I'm certainly in agreement that lump-port heads should make an incredible difference at 6000rpm. I'm just not sure how much improvement they would have at 2500. I would have much rather used a lighter piston than the LPG, but it has a perfect dish that mirrors the combustion chamber. The much lighter Ross has a shallow, but larger diameter dish that extends into the quench area that I don't like.
As soon as I started it up I could feel the power difference. In June I replaced the 4.56 Dana gears with 3.54's and it feels even stronger, because instead of just winding up through the gears(SM465), it actually pulls. In the 1700 to 2600rpm range it accelerates with ease and running just on the AVS primaries. Accelerating at 2600 requires secondaries, but I haven't had it over 3100. Running in 65-70mph traffic is a breeze. It used to struggle to stay at 60.

It's not a 4600 pound shoebox race car. Just an old truck with a new outlook. New disc brakes, P-steering and stepping in the fast lane.

hello Richard.... great comment...however ,its not about RPM-its about lift and duration and how air flows thru head.....Also, Until you actually flow these heads and find out how bad they flow-even with bigger valves, its VERY hard-almost IMPOSSIBLE to understand - that what is NEEDED for any performance increase is to have some sort of Lump in the Intake port-NO matter what you may think, it just doesnt work as you might want to think its works...I have spent LOTS of $$$$$ to find this out-seems instead of being thanked for my info I have shared time and time again- There are many that seem to reject what I say....its OK if you dont like me-Its not about me or even YOU( and you here that dont like me know I am refering to you), its about how to increase performance of these Chevy Inline 6 heads.....

Here is the question- What will it take to prove this to this group? I am only sharing info that will create more performance and fun for you!!!!! I already know what to do to these heads and 300 CFM on intake and 200 on exhaust is not hard to find-even when you use various flow benches....sooooooo, let me know if i can help.....I challenge anyone on this-for those who only want time slips-well after over 20 yrs of hot Street fun I will have the drag performance for you in short time also- I am willing to put ALL this on the Line-...GUYS this IS EASY STUFFFFF!!!! It really is!!!!!!!..... you think i ENJOY seeing all the hate here!!!...I just dont get it!!!!! AGAIN what is it I can do so you know i mean welll?????? I can meet any of you and show you what I mean-Again I have done the street work and working on the drag race-.....Have I upset you because you dont have the Lumps? That you dont have the Performance? welll here it is ...so tell me What do you want? for me to go away or keep telling the BB over and over again how to get performance.....Until you do these things I and MANY have done- you just cant get much performance-but if your Budget doesnt allow what I have mentioned thats 1 thing -I understand too -I have a budget myself.....
I am sure there are going to be responses giving me a hard Time-LOL -I expect it....but that will not change the physics of how these engines work-that is the biggest goal we all have-and guess what -WE ALL HAVE THE SAME GOAL- seems we are similar-arent we????

ok ....your turn....

ps-want more performance? buy the propane 292 pistons-cut off the top of these pistons-make them almost flat-deck block, mill head, add true rollers rockers with a 1.8 ratio( you can find EXCELLENT Made in USA roller rockers on ebay for under $200.00)....and wow!!!! what an engine.....but then add a cam of at least .520 lift and at least 220 @ .050 duration...add exhaust port "lumps"/plates and even more performance is available.....

Simple. Just do what Jack said and follow the rules accordingly. Post your information/results within said board rules and problem(s) resolved. Very simple.

-magic mike-

magic I have posted my resluts and you even question them- You are 1 that has ALWAYs questioned me ...I knew i would hear from you....I have done the work ..its up to you to find out---AGAIN, MAGIC what do i need to SPECIFICALLY prove to you?-DONT HIDE BEHIND A WALL -come out like I am and tell me what you need specifically?- AGAIN I have done the work- WILL YOU MEET ME AT A SHOP WITH A FLOW BENCH? I WILL MEET YOU ANYTIME-SO LET ME KNOW WHEN U R READY< UNTIL THEN , lets those that are here to want to know more from me-and there are many from emails I get- here what i have to say-it seems as time goes on there are more that want to know about this - I have posted my head flow #'s and you specifically questioned them-this isnt about -jack He doesnt even have a 292- but i figured maybe you would want the true results-I helped you get the cam you have-and you neve r said thanks-you called me at LEAST 3 times about these lump and head work that i i flowed and shared my results with you- and you never thanked me-......soooo go ahead say more.....

ps...better way for me to put this....
Do you think I am lying about this? Do you think I am misleading you?

If you do , I will leave this Forum and never return....I will say this - I can be specifific and detailed in what I can say about what info has been and is still being shared here that is misleading.....If you want to think I am wrong about what I have said, then go to MANY in the Inline Power Manual, call then- I have talked to many of them more than a few times- its up to you to find out answers-go out and get them-those that find out the truth went seeking the truth- those that didnt seek the truth, sat there and com[plained ......

Sounds like two forums here, may be confusing to some? Spiderman wanted info on DAILY driver- RichardJ and others addressed that very well, and somehow it went to a racing forum. Both subjects are very worthwhile but don't mix very well. An old teacher I had said "there's more than one road to get to the store", maybe we should try two. Both are certainly a valid way to get where were going.

OK folks...this is gettin' good! But let's understand what's going on here.

Lee has chosen to use flow numbers as his basis for challenging the "California" shop. Well, it would be really cool if this could actually happen - maybe we could get "Street Rodder" or "Hot Rod" to arrange, sponsor, and referee such a "Duelling Flow Bench Shotout"! But let's face it, that's not gonna happen. Until then, the credibility of a vendor can only be measured by his results - and the "California" shop's results speak for themselves. That - and the fact that for about the last 25 years at least, they've been a respected and proven source for Inline performance.

Do ET/MPH numbers, or even flow-bench numbers, translate directly into driveability and street performance? Hardly...anybody with any experience whatsoever in putting together a street machine knows that weight, gearing, drivetrain, and torque all have to be right on to achieve this. But until Lee can do more than post long-winded claims about how he has all the answers, he's just whizzin' in the wind.

Our organization, and this board, has in its very roots the spirit of sharing and helping out our fellow Inliners, a minority group at best. That does NOT include demeaning other suppliers and arrogant, unsupported claims of superior product. We will not allow this board to become a platform for any individual agenda, whether personal, political, religious, or commercial. Enough said.

Here we go again. I remember this happening before. Can't we all just get along? Really. I think all of us are adults here. This coming from a 19 year old.

Lee's posts we pretty much on topic to start with, he was sharing info he thought would be useful. Then we started getting off topic with a couple ****ing matches going on. I come here for info about straight sixes, and to see what other people have done and are willing to share. Not to read posts with people arguing in them. I can go to honda-tech.com for that. Please guys, if you see that your about to start arguing, then email each other.

I'm not a mod, and I'll probably get in trouble for saying this stuff, but let it go. So what if people disagree with you. Everyone has their own opinion, and is entitled to it. Just everyone take a breath and relax.

Lee-- I said the same thing before. You seem to have alot of knowledge, and I think it would be GREAT if you'd stay on this board and share it with us. Just realize what you type may be interpreted differently than what you mean. Everyone, think before you type. It's about the cars, and the love of hot-rodding.

-Spiderman- All I can say is, sorry this happened in your thread.

Just relax. John

bigchevy66

You are intitled to your opinion. And you did/do have a very good point.}[oooooo]

Richard, you said you are running an HEI with a ballast resistor? HEI is supposed to run on full 12 volts. Get rid of the resistor. You don't need it. Joe

It is running on 12 volts. Actually 12.3 volts. The other side of the ballast has 14.2 volts.