Inliners International Forums General Discussion Engines 216 dizzy issues----- shade-tree perf tricks?

Been working on my 216 in the chevy project that I picked up. Was running pretty good. Then I started hearing a rhythmic squeeking. After inspecting all around the motor, I found that it was the distributor wobbling. It was secured, but you could see the whole housing moving.

Be that as it may, it was still running. I started in on trying to fix the taillights and turnsignals after that.... of course messing with the electrical system. I have been running a 12v batteryon the 6v system. Although I know it isn't good.... I didn't really care since it seemed that the components that it needed simply to run were happy. So back to the lights. I give up on the lights because the woven cloth insulation on the wiring just keeps cumbling or catching on fire while I am using my heat shrink tubing. But I didn't go so far as to disable the ignition system yet because I wanted to run the motor to adjust the valve lash. But after everything the engine won't fire. Turns just fine, just won't fire. So considering all the issues I say to heck with it and tear out all the wiring altogether and grab the new complete wiring harness off the shelf.

I'm no stranger to auto electrics so it went in pretty quick. At the same time, I converted over to 12v w/ a new 1-wire alternator and 12v coil. I removed the gauges for now so that they wouldn't be a factor. Go to turn the engine over and agian it doesn't fire. I check for electric all the way down the line of ignition components and I am hot all the way to the distributor.... yet no spark.

Just seems real odd that the distributor although somewhat handicapped would give out at the exact same time I was messing with the wiring. Kind of makes me wonder what pushed it over the edge since it's more of a mechanical part than an electrical part.

It's really no big deal since I have one of Langdon's HEI dizzy setups on the way and should get it today.... but it just seemed odd. I plan to pull the dizzy this week to see if I can telll what went wrong and hopefully get this beast back up and running again better than ever.


This kind of brings me to my next topic.... I know that these little motors aren't real great for performance with the splash oiling and small displacement, but I'd like to try and hop this little guy up a little just for slightly better road performance. So I redid the exhaust with 2-1/4" tubing and a new turbo muffler, hoping that that would help a bit. It did. I bought that HEI distributor and coil which I am hoping will work well. Added all new tune-up parts and converted to 12v.

What would be a good logical next step for best bang for the buck? Kicked around the idea of a multi-carb setup, but they are expensive and I kind of doubted that I would see much of an improvement from it. I'm hoping not to get too much into swapping the cam....because if it gets to that point, I'm just going to pull the whole drivetrain and drop in my built 250 and convert to open driveshaft.

Any suggestions for where to go while being somewhat thrifty would be appreciated. Thanks.

If you have been running with 12 volts and no ballast resistor more than likley the points are toast. change out the points and condenser and add a ballast resistor (or an internally ballasted 12 volt coil) and it should run again. Check the bushings, gear, and gear roll pin for wear, most 216s I have worked with have had a slight wobble in the distributor.

Thanks for the info. Since I'm switching to the HEI, I'm not going to worry about replacing anything. I did add a ballast resistor in after I switched to a 12V coil. Which doesn't really mean anything since it was DOA before I ran the new wiring. But it should be fine for next time.

Be careful setting the spark advance. The original distributors had a very low slow curve for anti-knock and pulling from very low RPM, the HEI curve is faster and shorter.

Panic- Thank you... do you have more information on this?

No need for multi-carbs, just a progressive 2bbl Holley/Weber from Tom Langdon with his 1-2bbl adapter and a brushed Alu Air Cleaner. I rigged a cable setup using an '85 G Prix pedal (reshaped easily via vise/hammer), a longer cable from a boneyard jeep, and a throttle cable bracket from your FLAPS or boneyard. re-attach old return spring and enjoy leak-free cruising! I eventually added a manual choke for cold starting too. Then you can start gathering parts for those Dual Smitty's!

If you time the stock HEI to the stock mark it won't advance enough and will run a bit hot. You should ask Langdon what he reccos (or it may be included in the kit).
The original setting for the older dizzy is TDC to 5° or so, with perhaps 25-30° added by the curve (I can't find good consistent data). The stock HEI is more like 10-15° initial + 20-25° for about 35° total (depending on the year and the engine).
If the engine has high compression and stock cam I would just try it out, but it may ping at low speed and need the curve "softened" by increasing the spring tension, or drilling the weight so the advance doesn't come in as fast, or increasing the curve travel and using less initial lead (like the original).
An engine with a hot cam can use the curve as-is (or even more lead and less curved in), it needs the higher initial setting to compensate for overlap reversion, etc.
I would also check if Crane etc. makes an adjustable vacuum canister for it, very useful.
Until you get the ignition sorted out don't try to get your idle mix or speed perfect yet - it'll have to be done again if you change the spark.

Trump,

Have you seen the article by Don Francisco about Frank McGurk's series of dyno tests on a 216? Page 1; Page 2; Page3: Page 4 (Table of test results); Page 5; Page 6 (prices for equipment).
The dual carb setup (two BXOV-2s) increased the max HP by about 25%. tom Langdon's H/W carburetor suggested by Joe should provide similar performance, and even with the adapter cost does not cost much more than the list price of the dual Stromberg setup did back in 1953.

Thanks guys... I will have to look into it. I have been aware of these carbs for quite some time.... but I have to admit that the one thing keeping me from them is the appearance... they are ugly as hell in my opinion. Chunky and angular and don't look real at home on a 50's style custom. The list of available air cleaner types shys me away too.

I know that is you want performance you have to sacrifice looks, but man the H/W is a lot of sacrifice.

My rochy Model B is actually in real good condition. It's real snappy once warmed up and doesn't leak or anything. Only gripe right now is that with the paper element air cleaner on it huffs a bit now and then..... all adjustable.

But then again you can't deny a 25% HP increase on simply changing a carb. Perhaps I will have to reconsider my stance on asthetics in the name of HP and drivability.

Thanks agian.. I look forward to more info.