Inliners International Forums General Discussion Engines Help-oil pumping out dipstick tube on my 230!

The car is a 64 Nova and I had it sitting for about 2 years while I did some suspension and brake stuff. Prior to parking it I never had this problem. The compression is consistent in all cylinders at about 120 psi. When I got the car the Pcv valve went straight to manifold vacuum. I've installed a new PCV and routed it into the air filter with a K&N breather mounted inside the filter housing. It doesn't start to blow out the dipstick tube until the engine is warm. It has new oil and filter and I only put 4 qts of oil in.

So where do I start?

Do you have a breather on the valve cover,,is it plugged?

Oil control rings not doing there job? Stuck?

Use some Mavels mystery oil for the last qt. 5 total.

MBHD

On a 230 engine does't the pvc valve need to be connected to a vacuum port.No vacuum,no way for built up gases to be removed form the block.



If I read correctly,the pvc lines are routed to the breather housing.

Jimmy

The PCV valve WAS routed correctly to the manifold.
The breather can be routed to the air cleaner.

Yes, originally the pcv was plumbed directly into the intake manifold. Isn't that just a large vacuum leak, not to mention it sucks dirty air into the intake? That was why I switched the pcv to the air cleaner. I didn't think it needs full manifold vacuum to work properly. The manifold vacuum is now hooked up to my power brake booster. If I tee it at the manifold and have the pcv and booster connected will there be enough vacuum in the line?

If you are not going to use full vacuum on the PCV ,you will need a large breather on the valve cover.

That will spill oil after a while of driving, unless you run a hose to a tank w/a breater filter.


MBHD

the pcv liimits how much vacuum is lost to it. by hooking it back to the manifold with your brakes, all should be well. tom

Ok, it's not a stuck piston ring luckily. I connected the pcv to the manifold again and teed the brake booster into it. That solved the oil spitting out the dipstick, but I'm not sure the brakes have enough vacuum. I need to bleed them again and re-check. Hopefully that's all it is. Thanks for the suggestions.

There is a 'T' made for fitting the brake booster and PCV valve to the intake manifold. The 'T' is marked as to where the brake and PCV are connected to it. I've got one on my 292 not sure there is a part number.

LG

LGriffin, Sounds like that T is what I need. Where did you get it? Is there an orifice that controls how much air is bled from the pcv?

The T was on the truck when I bought it. I'll take a look this morn and see if I can some additional info. I know it's been dicussed before. but stars would have to be in perfect alignment to find it.

I did a quick check of NAPA and came up with a part number that looks good, CRB2674, PCV Valve HOSE Tee. From the pic the hose size is different on one of the connections. still checking

I checked my part this morn. The design looks the same as the NAPA part. It don't look the same, black plastic and tapered. The hose orientation is definitely marked. No part number on. The NAPA number will have to do.

LG

Ok, I made some progress today. I bought a T with compression fittings for copper tubing that I screwed into the manifold. Then I used 3/8" copper tubing on both sides-one to the pcv and the other to the brake booster. Then I crimped down the copper tubing to limit the flow but keep enough so there's no pressure buildup in the crankcase. The brakes work better now and there's still no oil coming out the dipstick tube. This is what I get for trying to improve something.

Some cars have a vacuum can under the hood, this creates extra volume for vacuum that decreases when you apply the power brakes.
I don't know how picky you are about how it looks or if it is original, but any vacuum can that is about 1/2 gallon will work.

Maybe also pick up a vacuum gage for your toolbox. They are good for engine diagnosis.

I also recommend an aftermarket dipstick / tube assembly from Masta Performance http://www.mastaperformance.com.
They have a positive locking toggle handle stick, an improved sealing system for the tranny side ,and are gold iridited. They also cost about half of what a Lokar part does.

ACH57 >>crimped down the copper tubing to limit the flow but keep enough so there's no pressure buildup in the crankcase.<<

The reverse is true. Before you re-engineer your PCV(Positive Crankcase Ventilation) system, you should learn how they work. The pressure is created by blow-by past the pistons/rings. The PCV system puts a small vacuum in the crankcase and pulls the vapors and pollutants into the intake manifold so the engine can burn them. This has the added benefit of keeping the engine cleaner and free of small oil seepage past seals. The breather part of the PCV system allows fresh clean air in to replace the vapors.
At idle and deceleration, the vacuum is highest and the PCV valve is nearly CLOSED. Deceleration!!I bet that is when your brakes are on and as luck would have it, you are not loosing vacuum to the PCV system. The valve is partly open when cruising and open the most in acceleration when blow-by is highest.
Your crimp will probably clog up. Let the PCV do its job.

Here is one of thousnds of web sites that can explain this system to you.
http://www.aa1car.com/library/pcv.htm

I understand how a pcv system is supposed to work and mine is now working fine. I'll know if my tube clogs up and I can clean it easily. I did that because I could hear it flowing thru the pcv valve at idle. Also having it plumbed directly into the intake affects the jetting and I have to turn the air screw to richen it up.

And finally, I didn't pull the idea out of thin air. My repair manual mentions two different pcv systems that were available on my car (Nova). One went to the intake and the other connected to the air filter and had a sealed oil cap. I imagine if I had the correct pcv valve either would work to release crank case pressure.