Inliners International Forums General Discussion Engines Radiator and oil pressure questions

Hi everyone

I got a real good deal on a 54 chevy 235 a while back. I was on vacation a couple weeks ago and decided instead of going anywhere I would change the 56 235 with three speed with overdrive for the 54 motor with a T-5 in my 54 GMC 3/4 ton. This motor purrs with the Pertronix ignition, Fenton headers, and the Holley Webber two barrel progressive carb. My first question is the oil pressure at around 15Lbs around 4 to 5 hundred RPMS and 30 to 45 Lbs while driving 1000 to 2200 RPMS around town. Is there something I should be looking for or is the oil pressure good? I have not taken this motor out on the freeway because when I put my radiator back in I discovered a major leak. I am using another radiator which also needs work. I don't want to create problems for my motor by running it hot. The radiator shop said the radiator needs new core which will cost 395.00 plus tax. Now the question are the aluminum radiators good? Is anyone using one? Looking on line Ebay it will be more cost effective to get one then to fix mine. I will appreciate any help on the oil pressure and radiator issues I am having.

Thanks in advance Steve

Yep aluminum radiators are good.
Try & find one that has a dual pass core,not a single pass.

Ron Davis radiators ( http://www.rondavisradiators.com/Welcome.htm are great from what I hear from my friends race shop.


MBHD

Steve,

The oil pressure seems to be ok. The spec for a 1954 235 calls for 45 psig (hot, I assume) at 1200 rpm. 15 psig at idle with hot oil should be fine.

I have an aluminum radiator cooling the 278 cu in 261 in my street rod ; seems to be performing well, never running hotter than the the thermostat setting.

Hoyt and Hank,

thanks for the quick responses, I figured the oil pressure was good but is always best to check with others that know more. My motor runs really good and strong and I am very happy with it so far. I think I will get an aluminum radiator compared to having a new core put into my original.

Thanks again for the information Steve aka 53chevywagon

I've ran aluminum radiators for years with no issues. The ones with two 1" cores will cool just about anything. Also, they support electric fans much better.

Also your oil pressure seems fine.

Hi all I have a couple more questions.

I put in the aluminum radiator now the problem I am having is that the engine is running hot according to the gauge. I put in a new thermostat also. The engine was running hot with the old radiator which would be expected because it was leaking. The 54 engine has a 848 head on it and has an adapter for the temp. sending unit. I put in one that fits a 848 head but I am not getting a reading of any kind, I tried two different gagues that I have. One is out of a 55-59 I believe GMC 12 volt the other is an aftermarket. I ran a wire from the temp sending unit to the gauge then the other wire to the ignition with a fuse. I tested the hot wire and it is getting juice. Now for my questions one did I wire that correctly and the second question is Are there other causes for that engine to be running hot. One other observation is that I will run the truck for a little while and the first gauge it would shoot up to real hot for about 30 seconds or so then you could see the needle bounce back as if the thermostat had just opened. I hope I am clear enough for you to understand my problem. I have also tried running with a little less then 50/50 and also 50/50 coolant. Thanks in advance for any help.

Steve

Does it knock?
Does it boil over?
If the answers are "no", ignore the gauge.

Make sure your thermostat has a small hole drilled in it to let air bubbles through.

Also - if you haven't flushed the block - you can get all kinds of crap out of the rear block drain. I have gotten as much as a coffee can full of rust, sand, casting core wire segments out of old inline 235's 261's when flushing them out with the head off and using a wire hanger to plunge down through the coolant passages.

Thanks for the replies,

It does not knock, and I will watch for it over boiling, as far as I have noticed it has not over boiled since I put in the new radiator. I think I will put the first guage back in because I don't even know if what I have in there now is even hooked up right. With the first guage it would go up to as much 230 then go back down to 200 and that is about where it stays. When I had the whole engine apart there did not seem to be any build up in the block although I did not go through it it looked good. I get nervous when it goes up to 230 and stays at about 200. I will look at pulling the thermostat and drill a hole in it and I guess the last thing I can think of is changing the water pump, although I have never had a problem with a 53-54 water pump except for when they start leaking. I have made sure that the belt is tight enough also. Any other thoughts will be appreciated.

Thanks Steve

The first sign overheating is increased knock sensitivity, especially on light throttle acceleration. This is an indication of how hot the combustion chamber really is, which is more important than even an accurate gauge reading.
Frequently, there's also a "copper penny" smell and taste in your mouth due to anti-freeze leakage before it shows up under the car.
If it's not broken, don't fix it.

Do you have a good ground from the engine to the frame?
This could affect your gauge reading.
Al

I also wonder about the location of the sending unit. The 250/ 292 engines temp gauge works better if located in the thermostat housing. Realising yours is a 235 though. Maybe you can move the location. Tom

Steve,
Infrared heat guns are very cheap and most any shop or dealership will have one. Even the cheap ones are very accurate.
I agree with Panic, that it sounds like it isn't overheating, but I'm the type that can't ignore the gauge and I'd have to verify that it is at the proper temp.

Good luck

Thanks everyone,

Yesterday I pulled the thermostat and I drilled a small hole in it. I put the first guage back in and took it for test ride,it did not over heat. Driving today to work which is a 5 to 7 minute ride the guage stayed at about 185 or so. previously it was going up to 230 then bouncing back down. after work I took it for a little ride and I was pushing it a little to see what it would do and the guage stayed around 195 or so. I am happy with the results. I was able to do a little fine tuning with the engine and it is running really well. Once again I want to thank everyone for the responses. I am also having an issue with my gas guage that I think Al hit it on the nose I don't think I have a good ground.

Steve