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strokersix,

who makes that intake manifold?
Do you have any pics of your lumps by themself?
Just curious of the whole layout.

Thanks for the pics.

MBHD


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I don't know much about the manifold. It has "JOHNSON" and a part number that might be General Motors issue cast into it. I found it on eBay. Supposedly a propane intake. I modified for 2 barrel Rochester, hot water, and the tapered transition into the head.

Lumps are modified tlowe parts. They are attached with the scab plates you see in the photo instead of a cap screw up from the deck surface. 3/8 inch tall at the gasket instead of tapered to nothing. I was shooting for constant cross section area from the manifold corner to the valves. I know I took more photos but can't find them. I'll post them if I do.

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When is that bad boy going to get fired up? Nice work.

Think it will be driving by the spring picnic?

Here is a Johson LP intake that came on a 292 I have.





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I got my invitation in the mail yesterday for the picnic. As long as I don't break any parts between now and then, you'll see it there! If I do break parts you'll get to see the evidence.

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Engine is in! Exhaust header fitup next. You may notice I'm missing some pushrods. I had them all installed and saw the rocker roller tip barely on the valve. I modified a pushrod to make a checker and determined 9.750 pushrods would better center the rocker tip so I ordered a set. Stock length is about 9.650. I'm runnning Crower 1.75 stainless with 3/8 studs intended for Chevy 250.

http://i965.photobucket.com/albums/ae131/strokersix/DSCN3877.jpg
http://i965.photobucket.com/albums/ae131/strokersix/DSCN3878.jpg
http://i965.photobucket.com/albums/ae131/strokersix/DSCN3879.jpg
http://i965.photobucket.com/albums/ae131/strokersix/DSCN3881.jpg
http://i965.photobucket.com/albums/ae131/strokersix/DSCN3882.jpg
http://i965.photobucket.com/albums/ae131/strokersix/DSCN3883.jpg
http://i965.photobucket.com/albums/ae131/strokersix/DSCN3884.jpg

Last edited by strokersix; 04/09/11 10:44 PM.
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Just came in from a long day in the shop. Very nice to see your motor in the engine bay.
Like to see the steel bell housing and the added bracing on the muncie. Tom


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Looking good.
Just curious, what size flywheel is that 168 tooth?

I like to use the smaller 153 tooth,weight is closer to the centerline of the crankshaft,revs quicker.

My friend w/his BBC 509 Dougnash 5 speed used the smaller 153 tooth held up fine. He also used to race roundy round cars & would always use & recommend using smaller flywheels. Helped him win championships & a lot of races.


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It's a 168 I had balanced with this pressure plate and crank so I'm kind of stuck with it for now. I'd rather have the 153.

Here are some header photos. The rusty ones are my cut up pickup truck headers 1.5 inch tubes and 2.5 inch collectors. The clean ones belong to tlowe and are 1.625 tubes with longer collectors also 2.5 inch. I know my rusty ones clear everything but they do hang a little lower. That could be fixed. The larger headers hit my power steering box. I think they might be OK with manual steering. The one tube hitting could easily be moved enough to clear. Also, the lower edge of the flange is resting on the side of the block. Not sure if this is truly an interference or not. If so, some time with a grinder on the flange would fix it.

What I'd like is the larger 1.625 tubes and longer collector but routed like my truck headers. That's a big project.

http://i965.photobucket.com/albums/ae131/strokersix/DSCN3885.jpg
http://i965.photobucket.com/albums/ae131/strokersix/DSCN3910.jpg
http://i965.photobucket.com/albums/ae131/strokersix/DSCN3912.jpg
http://i965.photobucket.com/albums/ae131/strokersix/DSCN3913.jpg
http://i965.photobucket.com/albums/ae131/strokersix/DSCN3886.jpg
http://i965.photobucket.com/albums/ae131/strokersix/DSCN3905.jpg
http://i965.photobucket.com/albums/ae131/strokersix/DSCN3908.jpg
http://i965.photobucket.com/albums/ae131/strokersix/DSCN3909.jpg

Last edited by strokersix; 04/10/11 02:45 PM.
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Your set does hang down low.
I had Clifford headers for my Camaro & a manual trans.
Not sure there is a Co that made headers tuck up close? Other than custom headers.

My headers got all smashed up for being too low.

Not sure if you considered Toms cast iron headers?
I do not think you would loose too much power over headers.
Plus headers seem to always leak, blow out gaskets etc.

Tlowe dyno tested a 250 w/headers & Langdons cast iron manifolds,,, but I think when the testing was done w/the cast iron manifolds is when the balancer/damper was failing therefore creating massive amounts of vibrations which absolutely kills power output.

Just a thought.
http://stoveboltengineco.com/



http://stoveboltengineco.com/index.php/c...t=0&sort=normal
http://stoveboltengineco.com/index.php/c...product=1395980
Your exhaust will tuck in very close to the belly pan & will last a lot longer than headers.


MBHD


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I wonder if they will clear my Johnson intake? Looks like a lot less hassle than headers.

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 Originally Posted By: strokersix
I wonder if they will clear my Johnson intake? Looks like a lot less hassle than headers.


I would contact Tom, I would think they will clear.
The intake looks simular to a Clifford intake.


MBHD


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They are a lot less trouble than headers. Nice product. I have a set and believe they will fit the Johnson with no trouble.

Headers will give you more low end tq. You are after that.

My dyno tests only show problems with the power when harmonics hit at high rpm. Stroker is not aiming to remotely go to those rpms.


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strokersix
Those headers are not much lower then most V8 headers and No where as low as the ones clifford used to make for the
62-67 chevyII bodys.Because they had to pass under the drag link,and they were only like ?? MAYBE ??? 2in off the ground.


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Tom, Will you post a couple photos of the Langdon cast manifolds and Johnson intake together on a head? Thanks.

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Stroker,
Will get the pics you need later this week.

Hank,
Don't want to take away from Strokers fun build thread. Tom


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Started fabing headers. 1.5 inch diameter, 16ga, 304 stainless, 2.25 inch collectors, 3/8 flanges. I am copying my altered truck headers with a few adjustments. Here are the first parts, merge collector inlet tubes.

http://i965.photobucket.com/albums/ae131/strokersix/DSCN3917.jpg
http://i965.photobucket.com/albums/ae131/strokersix/DSCN3918.jpg
http://i965.photobucket.com/albums/ae131/strokersix/DSCN3919.jpg
http://i965.photobucket.com/albums/ae131/strokersix/DSCN3920.jpg

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I am thinking the 1.5" tubing is a bit small.
Your engine is pretty good size now.

You could run the 1.5" tubing & step it up to a bigger size, that way it will still have great low end grunt & still be able to breath more for top end power.

Just a thought anyways.

Goodluck!

I am thinking my Clifford headers were 1 5/8 1.625 & worked great on my 254 CI L6.
I'd have to go measure them to be sure or look @ a old Clifford catalog.

MBHD


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Hank, I expected you were going to say that! I've been carrying these mandrel bends around for almost 20 years. This is the best opportunity I have had to use them.

If I were buying new mandrel bends I would buy 1.625.

Last edited by strokersix; 04/18/11 09:45 AM.
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Even with an unported exhaust port, an 1-1/2" header tube restricts the stock port opening quite a bit. Have you placed your header flanges on the head to see how much of the ports are being covered up by the flanges themself.



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CNC, No I have not because I have not made them yet. The flanges will be whittled out of bar stock so I can make them whatever I want. Also I will swage the tube out a bit to match the ports. I wish they were all the same. Exhaust ports one and six are taller and narrower than two through five.

I think you do flanges is that right CNC?

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I have them in sizes incremental from 1-5/8",1-3/4",1-7/8" and 2".



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Nice work! Keep going, the picnic is coming up.


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I am thinking, either you have a lot of time on your hands or you don't want to buy any parts from other members here?

At any rate,, your doing great!

MBHD


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Thanks for the encouragement guys. I've had the materials for 20 years and this is the first opportunity to use them. Stainless makes some very pretty parts but is difficult to cut and grind. On the plus side it welds nice. The mandrel bends are 316. Some of the bar is 316 and some is 304.

Hank, what parts are you referring to? Langdon cast headers?

Last edited by strokersix; 04/24/11 12:03 AM.
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I thought there are a few members here that make header flanges?

MBHD


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LOVE the header fab! Cant wait to see those things completed!


".....don't give up a TURBO more than makes up for all of this BS." Turbo-6

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Collector flange position, head flange fit on head, and swaged tube entry placed in flange. I'll beat to close the gaps in the corners before final welding.

I'm not sure about order of operations. There are some spots I can't reach for welding that have to be welded first. It's going to be kind of tricky I think. It's nice to have the old headers for a pattern.

http://i965.photobucket.com/albums/ae131/strokersix/DSCN3943.jpg
http://i965.photobucket.com/albums/ae131/strokersix/DSCN3944.jpg
http://i965.photobucket.com/albums/ae131/strokersix/DSCN3945.jpg
http://i965.photobucket.com/albums/ae131/strokersix/DSCN3946.jpg

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I like the work. Keep going! Want to hear those pipes rattle at the picnic. Tom


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strokersix,

with your excellent fab skills, I can see you making a turbo install pretty simple for you.

Ever thought of do a turbo install?

MBHD


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More header fab:

Beat to fit.
http://i965.photobucket.com/albums/ae131/strokersix/DSCN3949.jpg

I'll probably clean it up with a file later.
http://i965.photobucket.com/albums/ae131/strokersix/DSCN3952.jpg

Note weld between tubes I can't reach later.
http://i965.photobucket.com/albums/ae131/strokersix/DSCN3951.jpg

http://i965.photobucket.com/albums/ae131/strokersix/DSCN3953.jpg
http://i965.photobucket.com/albums/ae131/strokersix/DSCN3954.jpg

I will purge with argon while final welding. There is some mismatch in the tube fit. This will wash out into a smooth bead if I get the penetration right along with the argon purge. Better if the mismatch wasn't there though.

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Could you have welded them tubes before you installed them into the header flange???


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Two reasons I didn't weld first. I want everything tacked and fitup before final weld. A lot easier to break tacks than full welds. But the main reason is I want to purge for final weld so the inside is smooth and if I do that all at one time it's a lot less hassle.

Here are a few more images. On a roll today.

http://i965.photobucket.com/albums/ae131/strokersix/DSCN3955.jpg
http://i965.photobucket.com/albums/ae131/strokersix/DSCN3956.jpg
http://i965.photobucket.com/albums/ae131/strokersix/DSCN3957.jpg
http://i965.photobucket.com/albums/ae131/strokersix/DSCN3958.jpg
http://i965.photobucket.com/albums/ae131/strokersix/DSCN3959.jpg
http://i965.photobucket.com/albums/ae131/strokersix/DSCN3960.jpg

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Just a sugestion on the collector flanges.

Maybe purchase some V-band clamps.

No gaskets needed & they dont leak.
Example:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-2-5-V...sQ5fAccessories

Looking good BTW.
MBHD


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Thanks.

No gasket on the collector flange. Since it's a rigid flange instead of the usual loose flange I think it will be more robust but we'll know soon.

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That's what I call TUBE PORN! Good job, you are on a roll. Keep it up.


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Great jpb on them Pipes.


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