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Even though you installed a ridged flange it will eventually leak. There are only 2 bolt holes?
W/a V-band clamp, there is constant pressure applied evenly all the way around the flange.
I work on multi million dollar airplanes & that is the style flanges they all use & they do not leak. The planes I work on have been using them since the 1960's & are used still today.
Just dont want you go go through leaks, especially if you can do it now before it gets installed.
There are so many CO's making these, there are low quailty ones,so watch out for thin sheet metal ones.
They are pretty affordable & I do not see why anyone would want to use an inferior design.
Just my two cents thrown.
MBHD
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Hank, I believe you.
I may rework these collectors in the future. Originally I was planning to go from 2" at the collector inlet tapered out to 2.5 inch at the collector flange. I decided to make it 2.25 straight for now to reduce the effort. I can revise the flange connection at that time.
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Bet your stomach is getting alittle tighter. That looks like a lot of exercise!
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I'm not done yet. Still have to build connector pipes to the exhaust system.
Believe me, I'm in no hurry to build more headers. It's a buttload of work. My family has been patient with the noise.
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Great job! What are the details on the rest of your exhaust system? Size, muffler/s crossover etc.
MBHD
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Connector pipes are 2.25". Pipes back to the transverse mounted muffler are 2.5" with a 2" crossover. Muffler is a Flowmaster, I think it's really just two mufflers in one case but not sure about that. 2.5" out of muffler then 2.25" resonators out back exiting under the outer corners of the bumper. Resonators are altered JCWhitney glasspacks opened up for full 2.125" inside diameter thru and shorted to about 10" long to fit the available space.
The big block configuration was 2.5" all the way from 3" header collectors to the front of the resonators. I never took it to the track but the intent was to remove the resonators at the track.
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Cool, what happened to the gas tank, time for a new one?
MBHD
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Can't wait to hear the buzzin! Keep going.
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I removed the fuel tank, drained it, and let it ride around in the back of my truck for a week to ventilate. Also blew the fuel out of the lines. I try to minimize flammables in the house, especially when I'm welding under the car.
Thanks for the encouragement guys!
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Are you contemplating welding the tank for some reason? If so, we need to talk before you die. I know how to do it safe... most "safe" ways are not. People have died trying to weld empty, "ventilated" gas tanks.
Jan
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I tack welded the exhaust connector pipes. Fuel tank isn't even in the same room.
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That's a lot of RED
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Nice! It looks like that intake manifold makes a carb sit higher than a standard intake or Cliiford or Offy?
Are you using the bigger dual-jet carb?
MBHD
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Manifold height is very similar if not identical to stock one barrel intake. I do plan to try a spacer under the carb at some point. Carb is the larger two barrel. It's from a '69 full size big block 265 horse 396 application. Should be similar to what you would find on 327, 350, 400 small block '69-'72 or so.
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OK, the pics just looks like the runners 1,2 & 5,6 are sloping down, thinking the center is higher, thats all.
Has it fired up yet?
MBHD
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I drove it around the block
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Went for a drive yesterday and drove it hard. It runs strong. I'm glad I have the big 168 flywheel and clutch. I can lay two decent black stripes on the pavement and a healthy chirp going into second and even into third gear too! I wound it up pretty tight and nothing broke yet. Time for an oil change and see what's in the pan.
My younger son was with me and he thought it was cool but a little scary. That's encouraging in today's electronic iphone video game etc. world.
Last edited by strokersix; 05/18/11 09:45 AM.
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Cool!, videos of this type of thing goes a long ways so everyone can enjoy, hint, hint. I forgot the specs on your camshaft What did you end up getting?I doubt you have anything bad in the pan.MBHD
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My younger son was with me and he thought it was cool but a little scary. That's encouraging in today's electronic iphone video game etc. world. You are lucky I think having a kid in a hot rod is a form of child abuse in California.
"I wonder if God created man because he was disappointed in the monkey?" Mark Twain
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Got a ride in this cool rig today! Here is a short vid of it. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t7VIZpI4lfQBest part is, he let me drive it! And told me to let it RIP. The throttle response is instant, no shortage of torque. Stroker, Thanks for the ride. Tom
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Sweet sounds great! Just curious,, does it feel faster than your Elky?
MBHD
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I've ridden in and driven Tom's car. I think Tom's car pulls harder with the turbo. I bet I would beat him off the line and give a decent run at 1/8 mile but I'm sure the turbo would win at 1/4 mile.
He told me chassis dyno showed 250 horse at the Elco wheels. My goal was 250 horse at the crank. I'm probably short of that number but not by a lot. A little more cam (comp 252 hydraulic), a little more carb (Rochester 2 barrel), and a little more gear (3.08 posi) would improve 1/4 mile time. It runs so well as it is today I'm in no hurry to change it. I have some brake and suspension work that is more urgent. Cut a coil off the big block springs first!
Nothing broken yet. Oil had typical metallic look of first oil change, nothing alarming. I've spun it up to 5500 or so (still pulling at 5500) repeatedly while driving it hard. Kind of hard to tell exactly since the factory Nova tach is tiny and calibrated for v8. I will pull the head for a look and better head gasket. It is a cheapo rebuilder gasket now. I'll swap to a nicer print-o-seal gasket. Pistons rattle a bit when cold but nice and quiet when warm. Runs well on 87 octane, no ethanol.
Last edited by strokersix; 05/22/11 09:02 AM.
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Sounds Real good strokersix.
Larry/Twisted6 [oooooo] Adding CFM adds boost God doesn't like ugly.
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Now I am convinced, you have worked on engines before. LOL.
Goodwork!
Have you ever checked your cranking compression?
MBHD
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Thanks. I've worked on engines for most of my 46 years.
No, I have not checked cranking compression. All cylinders are the same based on the sound when cranking but I don't know the number.
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Can you post pics of the flame pattern on top of the pistons? That tight quench has to show up in the pattern.
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What type of valve seal were you running?
It's interesting how parts of the piston stay clean (like new) in the tight quench area. Wished I would have taken pics of the dyno 250 piston tops last time it was apart. They had a pretty swirl going on.
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I was running white teflon seals that had been used a couple times. They are in the trash now, replaced with the seals I got from you.
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Strokersix, Nice build, I am following it closely. With all the 16 pages of detail I just had to run this one thru the DeuceCoupe Gonkulator computer. Here is what it computed to, with the info you gave and assuming that 396-2v carb is the 1.25" venturi style (381cfm at 3.0" rating) I also computed a 9.46cr, not sure how you got 8.8cr unless I missed something? Anyway here goes: Torq 324 at 3300 Powr 257 at 4500 And with a good bite: 2.18 60ft 9.25 at 75.8 1/8mi 14.52 at 92.2 1/4mi Using 1-5/8 headers instead of 1-1/2 only added 3 hp, and was better by about .02 sec and .2mph. Not worth it. Adding a 600cfm Holley was good for 28hp, about 25sec and over 2mph in the 1/4 mile. But then you'd lose the fun of showing people your Nova taillites with not only a six, but a 2-barrel six.
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Thanks! Hey, you can run the numbers anytime you want if they come up that nice. My goal was 250hp. I took this car down the dragstrip with a stock 350/th350 and ran 15.4/94mph about 15 years ago. That's the one and only time I've driven on the strip.
Yes, 1.25 venturis. I'm not sure where I got the 8.8cr. It's more like 9.5.
I'm adding a 1/2 inch spacer under the carb because it seems like the throttle plates almost touch the intake floor. I'm exxagerating but I do think it will help flow to raise the carb a bit. The spacer will also hold the throttle cable and return springs so it's a triple purpose part.
Last edited by strokersix; 07/11/11 05:34 PM.
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DeuceCoupe: Gonkulator numbers are gross at the crank (like '60s musclecar), correct?
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DeuceCoupe: Gonkulator numbers are gross at the crank (like '60s musclecar), correct? Yes they are SAE Gross ie 60F 29.92 dry air, open exhaust, water pump belt only, no air cleaner. Also said 218 net hp (today's rating) and 191rwhp. Gonkulator is still just a computer of course, but running it against Tom Lowe's dyno tests helped, it is fairly accurate on the Chev 6. I am always looking for dyno or timeslip data to compare to though!
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One header with welding and exhaust heat stains and one cleaned with pickling paste: Polished with some scotchbrite and soapy water for more even texture. Should turn consistent dark straw color instead of welding heat stains. Installed: 1/2 inch carb riser plate. I'm hoping this will improve flow by making an easier turn below the carb plus some plenum volume. Still working on a throttle cable bracket that doesn't require baler wire:
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Looks good. Isn't it going to go back to the same color as before? I see it looks like you have a nice radius feeding #'s 3&4 cyl, did you do the same to feed 1,2,5,& 6 ? Hard to tell from the pics. I had put a large radius on my Cliiford intake & went too far , had to weld up both areas fwd & aft where carb mounts. It(the radius) helps the air/fuel turn into the fwd & aft runners better & yes & carb spacer does help it does also change the fuel needs a bit also,depending on how thick a spacer you install. MBHD
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