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I think Danny may have some pictures of the crossmember mods before he dropped the engine in. I'll see. You can see in the last picture that EFI-DIY's pan would have made Danny's life easier. I bet he uses one next time.


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The Jeep and Toyota 4x4 guys have "discovered" the engine and I bet this is what is happening where you are - they are getting grabbed for swaps.

Bolt on into a jeep and pick up 100hp so its a pretty convincing to do the swap.


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Try going to Copart's website. They have tons of wrecked TB's and Envoy's. You may have to have a broker bid for you. You can probably get one for under a grand. After you gut the drivetrain, you can haul the rest away for scrap and get some money back.

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Copart is a good idea.

It's tough to find a good 2006+ locally, but there's all kinds of 2005s on car-part.com. They start under $500, and a lot of yards will freight engines. Throw in $100 for freight and a couple hundred for accessories, you should be able to get a fully dressed 2005 to your door for $800-$900. Ebay often has even better deals. Don't know what your budget is, but I would say the premium that you pay for the 2006 is worth it. When I bought mine, it was about a $200 premium over the 05.

Pan is no problem. Buy or make, as you alluded. Wiring is no problem. If it's scary, check out my free wiring guide. If it's still scary, send it to me and I'll send you back a ready-to-go system and flashed PCM for $499.

The biggest problem with these swaps is clearance. If you got a big bay it's almost plug and play.

 Originally Posted By: NOX
I keep doing and re-doing the math, building up the 250 vs. swapping in the 4.2, and every time the numbers come up in favor of the 4.2.

Oil pan doesn't bother me. Limequat's Supra build illustrates that well enough. Doesn't seem like that big of a deal.

Wiring harness could be ugly, but again referencing Limequat's build, doesn't seem that horrible. Certainly not bad enough to make a fella throw in the towel.

I have my eyes out for a local donor. They must be pretty popular, or in low supply around here, because the ones that end up in the junkyard are stripped bare in a matter of days. When I say stripped bare, I mean down to the body shell. These people aren't leaving a scrap. I've never even got a sniff at a motor, yet.

Thanks for the link to those pics, Beater. Would be cool if we could get some shots of the frame/crossmember mods and engine mounts. That's what I'd really like to see on that turbo firebird build.

Found a fair looking LT1 in the classifieds. Was tempted for about 0.6 seconds. Too easy. 350 Camaros are more common than dog exhaust.

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Pretty soon, we'll have a variety of turbo 4.2s coming on line. We all know Marc and Jeff's beats, and I can think of atleast 4 more in the works. Once people see the 400 RWD HP dynos with junkyard parts, there's gonna be a line at the door. Get yours now while the gettin's good \:\)

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Is it possible to do a head swap from the later models with an earlier one? Since there seem to be plenty of the early ones out there, this may be an option for someone down the road. I'm guessing part of the supply problem with the later ones, is that they are still in service. An insurance company is more likely to fix a car with 50k on it vs. 100k.

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Limequat, I went to your web site and all it said was the domain name was reqistered with no info. How do I get to your web site

Last edited by Gabbyp #865; 01/25/12 02:24 PM.
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Yes the heads swap as a complete assembly. The later engines got a whole list of updates not just the head.

If your on a tight budget - get an early engine and a spare head and port it. Good for at least 20HP so 295HP is not a bad number. Add a good header & tune and I bet you would be close to 305.

Last edited by efi-diy; 01/25/12 04:17 PM.

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 Originally Posted By: Gabbyp #865
Limequat, I went to your web site and all it said was the domain name was reqistered with no info. How do I get to your web site


Of course the day that I tout my wiring business, I lose my website \:\) I had an issue with my hosting service and will have to rebuild my site over -I'm afraid- the course of several days.

In the meantime, I'd be happy to answer any questions via PM, email (limeswap@yahoo.com) or phone at 313-378-1547.

I apologize for the inconvenience.

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Do you guys have dyno numbers from your swaps? I see the chart above, and it's great for a stock comparison, but I'd like to seem some before and after turbo/supercharger numbers.

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Mine is 250 RWHP bone stock.

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11 psi 510 RWHP via a ford 9" 4l60E run in direct and coverter in lock up.

late engine
strong internals
ported head
billet cams
custom intake
billet turbo manifold
GT40 turbo


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Basically, I was just wondering how skewed the factory numbers were. 250 and the rear wheels, tells me they're probably good numbers. Getting 250 to the rear wheels is nothing to skoff at either. I suspect, the earlier engines won't pull off quite as good of numbers, but the 291 hp models only best them over 5000 rpm. The 270 hp models more than make up for the top end hp, with off idle torque. A good tune, free flowing exhaust, and modified air intake, should push either engine over the 300 mark, the way I see it.

Now, 510 hp at the wheels is totally cool. What is that 575-600 at the flywheel? I'm assuming that's with pump gas too. For most people, that's probably a little excessive, but I'm guessing you're never satisfied. Given those numbers though, if someone were to turbo a stock motor, I'm guessing 400 hp at 5-7 psi boost is pretty relistic.

Anyway, good job guys!

EFI-DIY> I like you're quote at the end of your post. It's too bad our politicians don't think think that way.

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 Originally Posted By: Whitedog
.

Now, 510 hp at the wheels is totally cool. What is that 575-600 at the flywheel? I'm assuming that's with pump gas too. For most people, that's probably a little excessive, but I'm guessing you're never satisfied.


94 octane pump gas. 8 PSI on a stock 4200 is darn close to 400 HP.

This year the drivetrain upgrades will be completed, the 4L80E is built and waiting to be installed, the dana 60 went in last year and is now well broken in.

I'm waiting for the block to come back and main girdle to arrive. I have some oiling system changes to make and then the whole works is going back together. Hopefully in time to make the Reno meet.

After the Reno meet the plan is to get the secondary fuel system plumbed in and tuned. Under higher boost the engine will transition from pump gas to 100% methanol. Once the alky is flowing the timing can be cranked up and I'm betting the torque curve is going to jump up.

On 94 octane I can only run 10* timing at 10 psi. With alky being 130ish octane I bet the timing can go up over 30*.


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 Originally Posted By: efi-diy


94 octane pump gas. 8 PSI on a stock 4200 is darn close to 400 HP.

This year the drivetrain upgrades will be completed, the 4L80E is built and waiting to be installed, the dana 60 went in last year and is now well broken in.

On 94 octane I can only run 10* timing at 10 psi. With alky being 130ish octane I bet the timing can go up over 30*.


efi-diy,

Have you thought about running a methanol injection system on pump gas?
They do really make a difference in power you can make while using pump gas.
As of right now, I can run 26 psi of boost pressure on 91 octane fuel. Intake manifold temps are as low as 59 degrees F @ 26 psi.

With you having 94 octane, you could possibly get away with more boost since we only have 91 octane here.

I would not worry about being only able to run 10* of timing, that engine probably does not need or require much to make power.

My piece a c#*p Syclone engine can run 14* of timing @ 15 psi on 91 octane, poor cylinder head design requires more timing to make better power.

How much did you raise the compression ratio to?

MBHD


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I'd like to throw a little something at this thread:







Corey

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OK. I'll bite. Tell us about. Do you make them? Do you sell them? Have you tested them? It looks great!


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Beater,

I do make them. I plan to sell them. I have fit it to my engine that I am swapping into an '83 Jeep J10 Truck. I am working with a guy who does 4200 swaps into Land Cruisers. I am going to ship it to him to test fit for his application.


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How deep is the pan?

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About this deep:




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That's beautiful.

I would like to suggest one revision: Move the drain plug to the backside of the sump. In low ground clearance cars (like drag and land speed vehicles)the drain plug boss as built will have a tendency to snag on the floor of a car trailer when the car is being rolled down the ramp door. Been there.

Good luck - I hope you sell a lot of them.


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Flyer,

I am thinking of doing a few different stock configurations as well as offering to build custom shapes based on needs.

Thanks for the tip on the drain plug. I'll keep that in mind.

Corey

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Corey, What do you think a pan like this would cost? How long would it take to get one? Beater


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Sorry, Beater... I did not see this post immediately.

At present, the price for the pan is $550 US. This does not include shipping. This will include the pan in the configuration shown above without the oil level sensor step. Mounting for the AC bracket is included. I am working on an inspection cover to include in the package for the same price. I have not worked out a dipstick solution yet, but have an idea in mind.

Lead time is 2 weeks but may decrease based on future production volume.

Thanks,

Corey

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That's a nice looking pan. Your welding is light-years beyond mine, for sure!

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Thanks, NOX... I have a secret weapon.

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Do you have a similar dimensional comparison to the 194/230/250/292?


K5Carrillo
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