Inliners International Forums General Discussion Engines 250 block what head should I use?

I have a 250 Block and I am looking for a non-intagraded head for it 1974 or older. I am going to do a home build with used parts too make myself a better than stock I6 for my 81 c10. I was wondering what size used factory head I should use for my build, one that would give me good performace? and If someone has a head that they are just giving away or selling please let me know my email address is kyledyanawetherby@yahoo.com and I live in Western, MA. I have been looking for little while now and haven't had any luck finding a used head for my build so any help would be appericated. Thanks

If you are using all used stock parts want to bump up the compression, you can use a 194 cyl head.


MBHD

Yes I plan on using all used stock parts and I plan on putting it all together in my spare time in my very tiny gararge. I checked the casting # on my block and the yesr is from 73-79 250 block so my question is do I have to change anything on the 194 Head or will it just bolt on? If anyone has a used 194 head let me know thanks.

Tlowe probably has a bunch if he hasn't scrapped them already!

Thanks for the heads up, How do I get intouch with him?

Awnsered my own question, thanks again for the info

The 194 head bolts right on.
Tlowes sells the 194 heads. IIRC last one I saw he sold was for $1000. ready to go.

For a person that says the 194 heads are junk, he certainly does not give them away.

My mistake it was $1200.00 for the 194 cyl head.
http://12bolt.com/250292_products/cylinder_heads_and_rocker_arms

They are harder to find & worth looking for, especially if you have no intension to get better pistons to raise the compression ratio.
Bumping up a point of compression will net you more torque & more likely better mileage, depending on how you drive & other factors.

But I would think someone here on the BB has one or some.


MBHD

Great info and yes right now the block is strong with low miles no I am not going to tear it apart right now but it would be awsome if someone had a used head that they would sell. This build is going to be kind of a frankinstien engine but I think I will be happy with the end result.

JUST PUT A SET OF FLAT TOP 307 PISTONS IN IT AND YOU ACHEVE SAME RESULTS FOR ABOT 125.00 BUCKS. I ALSO HAVE 194 HEADS BUT THERE FOR ME. THE REASON THERE SO EXPENSIVE IS THERE VERY RARE AND ABOUT HALF OF THEM YOU FIND ARE CRACKED......

That is something that I have in mind for the future but the engine has reasonably low miles and I am going to run it until something goes before I pull the bottom end apart. I love the look of the I6 in my truck so I will never swap to a V8, plus people are always surprised its not a 350, I guess everyone just expects that what you have under the hood.

DO it once and do it right and be done with it. if you put a fresh head on a med to hi milage bottom end your get alot of blow by on the rings.....

Thats a good point and something to think about but first thing first I need to find a head. I thought I had a head gasket problem so I pulled the head and come to find out my intagraded 250 head was cracked so surprise there. S I am tirying to find a good used head and I figured sense it was apart I wanted to see if I could get something to add a little more grunt. After I find a used head I am also going to attempt to build by own intake for it.

i have some stock 250 ( non int) heads for 250.00 cleanned and magnifluxed + shipping

Thanks for the reply to my thread for a head but thats out of my price range.

NO PROBLEM AFTER YOU FIND A FEW,PULL A FEW, CLEAN EM CRACK CHECK THEM AND IF YOUR REAL LUCKY AND NO SUNKEN VALVE SEATS YOU MIGHT HAVE ONE WORTH REBUILDING. GOOD HUNTIN

Put a ad in your local craigslist. You will be surprised what shows up.

Located one a friend of a friend had a 250 Head sitting in his basement that he had rebuild a few years ago and never used it cuz he sold the truck. He just gave it to me super nice guy did want anything for it but I went a bought him a case of beer anyway just to say thank you. I am glad I didn't spend money and buy one, sometimes you just need a little luck and a nice person to get what you lookinng for(a great deal) now I can start mocking things up to build by own intake for a four barrel carb. I will let you guys know how it works out.

Last week, Mike Kirby @ Sissell's quoted me $75 for a bare cylinder head that was cleaned and magnafluxed. Also a race shop that I buy all my cylinder head cores from sells them for $75 also that are cleaned and magged. So $75 bucks seems to be the going rate for them and is reasonable.

Ya I think $75 is a reasonable price for the cylinder head, I would pay that

HAPPY FOR YOU, GLAD IT WORKED OUT ON THE CHEAP. ALSO SCRAP IS GOING SO HI NOW ITS LIKELY MOST WILL GET SOLD FOR SCRAP SORRY TO SAY. BUT IN MY AREA THERE VERY HARD TO FIND AND MACHINE SHOPS DONT WORK FOR NOTHING AND CLEANNING, MAG CHECK AND PRESSURE CHECKING ADDS UP QUICKLY.

thanks I am happy it worked out too and I hate to see older parts that still could be used get melted down and turned into a toaster or something. Such a shame, think of all the good old cars and trucks that were lost during cash for cluckers

Glad you found a cyl head, but just remember, you are going to still have low compression.

You could have the head milled some more to help raise the compression a bit.

It's not that critical, but I thought you were wanting to bump up the performance.

Goodluck on your build.

MBHD


MBHD

I would not cut the head at all personally because there bad enough to crack stock. up to you though. I run 160 degree thermostats to protect the heads on all my trucks here in the mountains of tn. also 4 core rads..... you get in a long pull 6-12 miles loaded or unloaded and you build heat quick even in the winter. 307 pistons are cheap and you got the head for nothing so you can invest the $ in a set of pistons jmo

I was thinking about putting a lump kit in the head. Has anyone else done this? is it really worth it to put the lump kit in?

There has been thousands of discussions here about lumps and even a very thorough series of engine dyno tests done around the benefits of them, the search function is your friend. The real benefits to lump porting comes with larger valves and cams, so on a near stock engine there isn't going to be much gain. What other mods have you done to your engine or are you planning to do.

I was planning custom intake, four barrel carb, headers, MSD ignition and sense it didn't cost me anything for the head I am leaning towards putting in 307 pistons in, so I think for the money the lump kit would be worth putting in.

Ok, this is where you are going to make power, modding the cyl head, that & a decent camshaft.

Larger valves, lumps pocket/bowl porting minimum. It is going to cost though. It is not cheap period.
If you are going w/307 flat top pistons (w/no chamfer on the top sides) you need a better cam to complement all the others items you are going or intend to add.

It all depends on what you are looking to get out of it.


MBHD

I am looking for something that I can be proud of when I hit the gas but I am not expecting to make something that puts V8s to shame I just don't have that kinda of extra money. But I love the inline 6 so that is what I am going to stay with.

You need to spend time/ money on the head.
Minimum 1.84/ 1.6 valves and bowl porting. That and a cam with 4 bbl and headers will make the V8 guys think twice.
Your truck is heavy no doubt. But this work will add around 75 hp with ease.

will the head have to be machined in anyway to except 1.84/1.6 valves?

Yes the seat area needs to be machined for the bigger valves.

What cam should I be looking at for my 250 price vs performace?

thanks for the link very helpful