Inliners International Forums General Discussion Engines Building a 292. want to turbo. Need exact specs.

your going to pay the same amount of money no matter what size valve you go with. So if your going to install a lump port kit. And want all that the head can give go with the 1.94in. & 1.6ex.

alright and can someone please explain the use and need for a stud girdle?

A stud girdle would only be needed for instances that you would be using a camshaft that required very heavy spring pressures(big solid lift or roller) and high RPM. If you are planning to machine your head for screw-in studs, you can upgrade to 7/16" studs and be safe with that and not need a stud girdle. The purpose of a turbo is to make a lot of HP lower in the RPM range so you do have to rev the engine to the moon to make the same HP.

so to stay as budget friendly as possible, yet as cool as i can, would you recommend going the turbo route or the built 292? I am going to put this into a 65 Chevelle 4 door with shaved handles and a 5 speed conversion (everything you shouldnt do to this car)

IMO.
I would build a turbo 250 engine.

Less hood clearance w/a 292.

More work to install a 292.

A 292 will get worse gas mileage.

I would leave it an automatic & use a 200R4 or a 700R4.

A stick is fine also, your preference.

My 2 cents.

MBHD

i have a passionate hatred for automatic cars. i own 6 cars and all of them are stick haha. Now why would it be harder to install? i can understand the clearance, but what else would make it so hard to install?

I did not say it is hard to install,,there is more work = more money to install, it does not just drop right in using stock engine mounts.

Maybe when you try out a turbo charged car & want to go consistanly faster than a manual trans car,(possibly less parts breakage) then you might reconsider an auto trans?

IMO, a stick car w/a typical low reving 292 is just a waste.
I would rather have an engine that you can rev it higher & a manual trans. Just my preference.

But to each there own.

MBHD

Nolando, I agree with Hank about the turbo engine instead of a Strong N/A engine. To build a 400 HP N/A engine for instance, can end up being more expensive to build than a turbo engine with 400 HP. Also, the 292 engine would be a real powerhouse to build with a turbo, but much more cost to build than a comparable 250 with a turbo of the same power output. There is a ton of off-the-shelf H-beam and I-beam aftermarket rods for the 250, but the 292 engine is a one-of-a-kind in that department, and at that HP level I would highly recommend it for either engine. Also as hank said, installing a 292 into a passenger car can be a challenge on several fronts, not only from the motor mounts, but also from the headers. 292's were only installed into pickup trucks, therefore headers for a passenger car might not always bolt-up good and provide clearances around the steering and other components because of the 292's much taller deck height. Its also a preference thing just like the straight shift, but do what your comfortable with.

so what would i have to do to a 250 to get that kind of power out of a 250? i have a 230 that is a fresh rebuild and a 194 that is torn down but what would i have to do to turbo the 250 and get that 400 hp?

i will consider the auto again once i get done with the engine

Larger valves installed.
Forged pistons are highly recommended. Approx $600
3" downpipe.
Methanol injection. I use this currently & would recommend: http://mysite.verizon.net/res11pgkr/vehicles/customkit.html
I have also used this: http://www.aquamist.co.uk/cp/cp1.html

It's not absolutely necessary to install lumps. Profile the cyl head intake boss to a minimum w/out going too far as to getting into the bolt hole. The turbo will force the A/F mixture past the intake boss w/out a sweat
This would be done if you are on a budget. Other wise install some lumps.
Small profile camshaft.
Depending on budget,& if it will fit, a SPA turbo exhaust manifold, or use a truck 292 2.5" exhaust manifold w/a "J" pipe.

I am pretty sure you can use a SPA manifold & run a flange w/exhaust tubing & locate the turbo where you want to.
Example: http://t6racing.org/t6racingbb/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=48
Just to position the turbo where you have room for a downpipe.

You can do something like snowman did & the chassis is simular to yours.
https://www.inliners.org/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=59760#Post59760

MBHD

so if i run methanol can i run fuel injection or am i messing something up?

You can run fuel injection.

My Syclone is fuel injected & I use the alkycontrol methanol injection system.With injecting methanol, I run up to 25 PSi of boost pressure on 91 octane pump gas.

The link I posted has an additional spray nozzle that can spray methanol or water or both.

MBHD

More boost! Tlowe got 350HP with just 5 psi boost on the 250 dyno tests he conducted. With 8 psi and intercooled you shoud easily reach that if not more.

so would i still be using that t3/t4 turbo or something bigger?

and how much did it take you to build your motor, Hank? just making a budget to try to stick to.

I have not added up all the prices, too scared.I still need more parts also for the new build. I am going to turbo my engine that is currently in my car, It was previously supercharged. At least that is what I am planning on doing.
It's not running w/a turbo yet.

My new engine is not built yet.

If you want to just add parts to your existing 230 you can do so.That would be a budget minded build.

You can add turbo & supporting parts to your 230 & spend about $1000 - $1400 & make 200-250 HP pretty easy @ the flywheel.
That would be running low boost.


Like when I helped snowmans build, but his is a 250.


The problem is you just cannot allow the engine to detonate, cast pistons cannot take much detonation before they explode.



How much do you think you can afford for this budget?

$1000, $2000, $3000, $4000? more?

Reason being, there are cheap parts & pricey parts, like turbos, wastegates,B.O.V.'s etc.


So let us know when you get a chance.

MBHD

i would like to keep it at or under 3500 if i could but i dont know how realistic that is. I am starting from scratch so i really dont know the cost im looking at. i will run forged pistons and whatever i need to build it right. i dont want to have to take this all apart right after i build it.

does 3500 sound reasonable or am i way too low?

You may be a little low. Not far off.
It depends on who will be doing the work to the engine. How much ability you have to fab up the turbo setup.

i can do the fab pipes and stuff. but as far as machine work, no i cant. as Far as actual assembly, I can do that.