Inliners International Forums General Discussion Engines 230 cam bearing replacement

Yes it's me again with a newbie question

Anything special I need to know when replacing cam bearings?

I read somewhere that high volume pumps may knock them loose while the engine is running. (Hard to believe but hey what do I know)
Can you use Loctite to help them stay put?
Mine look ok but they have lots of miles on them. I don't expect an underlying problem with them, just want to put new bearings in with a new cam.



Jan

No Loc-tite needed, never heard that high volume pumps knocked them loose. I never heard of anyone running a high volume pump having that problem either. Just make sure you line the oil hole in the cam bearing up with the oil passage in the housing bore.

Never seen that problem either.

I always use Clevite bearings for the cam. Had a problem with another manufacturer.

90 something percent of all domestically produced cam bearings are made right here in Carson City. They get shipped out in all kinds of boxes. I bet that the ones you like and the ones that failed were made on the same machine,at least on the same line. Man Tom I wish you had brought those bearings to the Convention Chuck was in the room.

I've never heard of oil pressure moving cam bearings either.

I still have the bad bearings. Be glad to send them out to be checked. PM me his address.

Send them to me and I'll take them by. I don't think you'll get much from him. He will say it was from all the cam changes and extreme use in the dyno tests but I'd be glad to do it. I saw him Saturday. Or if you'd rather I'll get his address to you.

Never heard of bearings walking due to oil pressure either, but I saw it at a "reliable" source, forgot where. I'll post back if I can find it again. Thought I'd ask you guys if anyone knew about it.

I think I'll have my local shop do the bearings, they can also put the block through their washer. Beats scrubbing it down manually.

I may have found a decent machine shop. They did the head and crank for me. I get a small discount and it seems the dump I work at will start using them too. Just yesterday got a 4 cyl Kia Optima head back from our regular shop, I sent it there for pressure test, straightness and whatnot after the car blew a head gasket. They shaved the head, but never removed the valves. As a result, most valves on one side (16v) got shaved a little too Never heard of anyone milling the (aluminum) head without removing the valves... Oh well. It runs ok, just got it back together tonight. Fingers crossed. More test driving tomorrow.

Sorry for rambling off-topic, I'm lonely, bear with me

ITS BEST TO GET YOUR MACHINE SHOP TO INSTALL THEM. THEY HAVE THE CORRECT TOOL TO DO THIS JOB, ITS VERY CRITICAL TO GET THEM IN CORRECTLY AND IN THE PROPER ORDER.

I fully agree. I don't have the tool and I can't justify the cost of one. I'd use it maybe twice in the next 5 years.
Still having hard time trusting anyone else's work but that's what I'll do.

Well the block is in the shop. $80 for cam bearings (Clevite) and cooking and cleaning.

I had to skip the 30-over boring ($250) deck milling ($125) for lack of funds, it would have been nice but then I'd need new pistons again... I have to draw the line somewhere. I also asked if they use a torque plate when boring the cylinders oversize, they said it would run me $40 extra. Not sure if these prices are good or bad, just thought I'd share in case someone is pricing his project and stumbles on this thread.

The prices are good for:
Cooking and cleaning is about 50
bearings installed for 30 good deal

I will bet you a 12 pack they do not have a torq plate for you inline 6.It is worth it to have it done. I have found .004 swelling around each head bolt 1" deep in the bores when using studs.
The deck milling is abit high 50 high. The bore and hone , about 50 high.

IF THE BLOCK NEEDS BORING IT WWILL HAUNT YOU IF YOU DONT DO IT. ALSO 307 PISTONS ARE CHEAP.................... LASTLY THE MACHINE SHOP PRICES ARE WAY TO HIGH AND YOU DONT NEED A TORQUE PLATE UNLESS YOU BUIILDING A ALL OUT RACE,HI-COMPRESSION ENGINE IMO. BET THE 2 FRONT CYLINDER ARE WAY OUT OF SPEC................

I put pistons and bearings in this engine maybe 3 years ago, right after I got the car. Didn't have money at the time to do more, then got a much better job but lost my workshop and garage I had at my old job.. go figure. Had money, but no place to work on the car. And I wouldn't trust anyone else doing it for me. Watched too many mechanics work on customer cars.

I am sure the cyls are not true but they will do what they need to do, for now. I had great leakdown and compression numbers, extremely even during the past 3 years. I kept checking it occasionally a few times a year and just before teardown. The main problems were scored rod journals and one leaking exh valve.

And my thoughts exactly on the TQ plate, tlowe.
I bet the $40 was to cover the cost of making one