Inliners International Forums General Discussion Engines 216&235

I am bidding on a 235 for a replacement for my 216. What else will I need For the swap? I'm pretty sure that it'll bolt right up to the trans and that I have to swap out the front plates on the motors. Are the manifolds the same on both engines?

thanks,

jack s

ebay item # 4537788346.

Dear Jack;

What type of vehicle are you planing to put it in?

John M...

PS: That is a 55-62 model probably only needs a "short" water pump if your planning it for a pre 55 auto/truck. Plug off the filter. You can drill the mounting plate (on engine) if needed and use the manifolds that come with it.

It is going into my 1950 deluxe 4 door. it has a 216 in it now with a 3 speed

Dear Jack;

Does yours (50) mount in the front or on the side(s) like a 1952?

They changed right about then.

JM...

Yeah you can drill the mounting plate, saves some work that can be a P.I.T.A.

Short waterpump or adaptor for the 216 pump if you want more original look.

Manifolds are biger diameter on 235.

Install a at least a bypass filter, better a Frantz Filter. Modern oils kepp the slush in suspension and deliver it to your bearings.

3-speed will bolt right in.

Make sure you use the right pully/belt combination. 216 and 235 are different here.

Also you might have to modify the generator arm a bit.

Have fun!

the engine mounts in the front with biscuit type rubber

I'm in the middle of the same swap - here's what I found:

My 235 is a 58-62 and the boss cast on the left side of the block for the throttle linkage bellcrank is farther back, and the stock gas pedal to bellcrank linkage will be too short, and the linkage to the carb will not be in the correct place vertically. I'm going to fabricate a bracket to put the bellcrank in the right spot.

Drilling the mounting holes for the front mounts might not be as easy as it seems - that's what I was going to do to mine BUT the stock front mount also has rectangular cut-outs in the bottom to fit the motor mounts. Yours may have the cut-outs, but mine did not. Changing the front plate is fairly easy except for 2 things - pulling the crankshaft timing gear and removing the 3 flat-head screws that hold the plate to the block.

The 216 crank gear had 2 tapped holes to allow a gear puller to be attached to them; the 235 gear did not have tapped holes, which means the gear puller fingers must fit UNDER the gear. This is a problem as there is very little clearance between the back of the gear and the plate. I had to grind the back of the puller fingers (a no-no) to get under it. I was lucky as it came off without much problem, but there are horror stories of gear teeth breaking.

The flat-head screws are a problem in getting a large-enough screwdrive with sufficient torque to lossen them without the screwdriver slipping and messing up the slot. Again, I was lucky.

Good luck, the swap is worthwhile

An impact screwdriver will help with the screws. You hold it in position with one hand and hit it with a hammer. Mine came in a kit with several different sizes and types of blades.

Baldy

Dear Jack;

If you drill the 1/2" holes in the center it will be fine. The rectangular cut outs are to keep the mounts from turning etc. Just hold with a lg pair of channel locks. Attach the mounts to the engine & then to the crossmember on instlation.

As I recall 55-59 Chev truck linkage works for the gas pedal.

Also when changing the flywheel be carefull not to damage the lock plates for the bolts as they need to be used again.

Good luck, John M....

Speaking of the "lockplates" John M refers to, does anybody have a source for these? I'am scrounging extras in salvage yards because the fold over tabs break off easily.

Those are a really 'rare bird'. The last ones I needed I got the same way.

The ones that SBC racers use are the next bet, but an expensive way to go.

Never EVER use the 'split' type lockwasher!!

JM......