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#72800 - 12/03/12 05:53 PM J'ai from TN
jmsaunders Offline
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Registered: 11/25/12
Posts: 24
Loc: Lebanon, TN
Well after lurking around for a while I finally gave in and created an account. I have a 292 that I want to build and swap into my 72 LWB C10. Before I get started though I like to do research and make sure that I'm going about things in the right way. After all experience is the best teacher and it's best when you get her lessons from the mistakes and success of others :).

My goals with the engine are what I consider modest. I plan on it being a daily driver and am looking to make about 250 hp around 2000 rpm range. These numbers are not set in stone and I'm open to opinions. How I came up with these numbers is that I believe that is enough power for pushing the truck down the interstate at 70-75 mph and still get decent mpg. I don't plan to race the truck so mostly looking to build it and improve on the already awesome low-mid range torque.

I do plan on swapping out the TH350 for a manual when I swap the engine if that makes a difference on how I build the block. Right now I'm considering a SM465 for the tranny although if that doesn't work for my goals then I may look for one with an O/D.

Lastly, for consideration is adding aftermarket intake (offy most likely), 2 or 4 bbl carb (yes I'll have plenty of questions on those later lol) and possibly adding turbo (5-10 lbs of boost) with the intent of setting it up so that it only kicks in on the interstate.

This will be a slow build (as I want to take it one step at a time and have to save my pennies as I go). So my first series of questions deal with prepping the block and are for those members that live in the middle TN area.

Where did you take your inline 6 block to have the machine work done?
What work did you have done and how well of a job did they do?

I'm thinking of do the following:
1. Debur of excess casting flash
2. Chase all threaded holes
3. Clean main oil gallery
4. Replace cam bearings
5. Replace freeze plugs
6. Bore if necessary the minimum amount to get cylinders correct

If there's something else I need to do please let me know. And let me know if I've added items to the list that aren't necessary.

Thanks in advance for your help and input with my build.

J'ai (That's pronounced like Hi; and yes the subject sounds like Hi from TN when pronounced correctly lol......I just love my name :D)
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Jaimi

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#72806 - 12/03/12 09:28 PM Re: J'ai from TN [Re: jmsaunders]
Beater of the Pack Offline
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Registered: 10/06/07
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Loc: Northern Nevada
Hi J'ai welcome. Do you have Leo Santucci's book. Lots of them for sale on eBay. There is step by step info there an especially good section on block prep. You can do a lot yourself and use the money for what you can not do. 292s are not famous for gas milage but some here get impressive milage. There are several guys here with lots of 292 experience and quite a few who make and sell speed equipment. I'm sure you will get all the help you can handle. \:D


Edited by Beater of the Pack (12/03/12 09:30 PM)
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#72808 - 12/04/12 05:43 AM Re: J'ai from TN [Re: Beater of the Pack]
jmsaunders Offline
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Registered: 11/25/12
Posts: 24
Loc: Lebanon, TN
Hi Beater, I do have Leo's book and have read it several times and th
at's where I got my ideas from. Unfortunately this is my first build and I learn better by interacting with people than from just reading. Also, a lot of the book is geared towards race engines it seems and I don't plan to build one that radical. So I'll probably have plenty of questions about what steps in the book I should do and which are just overkill.

Which steps would you suggest I attempt as a noob?
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Jaimi

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#72821 - 12/04/12 12:44 PM Re: J'ai from TN [Re: jmsaunders]
Beater of the Pack Offline
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Registered: 10/06/07
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Loc: Northern Nevada
It'll be up to you to select a good block to begin with. You can strip it, check it the best you can and if you find no problems take to s shop for cleaning and magnafluxing. Then take it home and remove the flashing and chase out all the bolt threads. You could do that before you take it to the shop but if they find cracks you have waste the time. If you grind the flashing you will need to clean out everything really well again. Have the shop put in the cam bearings. Have the crank checked. Use the 12 counter waited crank. Stock rods will be fine. LP gas piston will bump the compression some but if you think a turbo is likely just spring for forged pistons now. If you plan on a turbo and just want a good driver don't bother with a big cam. Head work is important. I'd do lumps, 1.86 intakes and 1.60 exhausts and the port work needed to tale advantage of your mods. There are EFI systems that can be adapted with or without a tunable Megasquirt controller. Lots of options for you. I've been stalled on my 292 build for a few years now.
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#72823 - 12/04/12 03:25 PM Re: J'ai from TN [Re: Beater of the Pack]
bcowanwheels Offline
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BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING BETTER MAKE SURE THAT BLOCK WILL TAKE A REBUILD. ITS VERY COMMON FOR THE FRONT 2 HOLES TO BE SO FAR OUT WEAR WISE IT WILL TAKE SLEVES TO GET THEM BACK IN SPEC'S. EVEN WITH ENGINES THAT HAVE NEVER BEEN O/H BEFORE.
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#72825 - 12/04/12 03:47 PM Re: J'ai from TN [Re: bcowanwheels]
jmsaunders Offline
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Registered: 11/25/12
Posts: 24
Loc: Lebanon, TN
I have a block that I've heard run and it runs pretty smoothly and didn't smoke. The only noise I heard was from the lifters and my other 2 inline 6's make that same noise so hopefully I have a good rebuild candidate. Can I visually ins;ect the front 2 cylinders or is that something the machine shop will have to do to ensure they can be brought back into specs?

If it does have to be sleeved is that something I could do or would have to have the shop do?

Bcowanwheels, do you know of any shops in the middle TN area that have experience working on inline 6's and that do good work.

Beater, I was planning on going up to 1.86 intake but leaving the exhaust stock at 1.5 when I got around to having the head machined. Right now I'm just trying to focus on the bottom end and getting that right. I have a tendancy to bounce all over the place and have a ton of 'good' ideas (I'm doing my best not to ask all the questions I have about cams, pistons, headwork, exhaust, carbs, etc lol).

I know that the block I have came out of a 63 chevy and most likely has the forged steel crankshaft with only 6 counter weights. I was hoping to just have it cleaned/balanced and use it since I'm doing what I would call a mild build. Is this asking for problems down the road? If so I'll begin looking for a 12 counterweight one.
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Jaimi

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#72828 - 12/04/12 07:03 PM Re: J'ai from TN [Re: jmsaunders]
Beater of the Pack Offline
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A very import part of any build is to have an overall plan from the fan to the rear tire size. You don't have to do it all at once but you have to know what the end product will be. To do that you have to be honest with yourself about what you want the engine/vehicle to do. Every modification hopefully makes something better but it may have a negative effect in another area. So think it through. For a truck engine I would prefer the 12 weights but if the crank you have is useable it will probably do just fine. You can not do sleeves at home. And they are not cheap to have done.
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#72830 - 12/04/12 08:08 PM Re: J'ai from TN [Re: Beater of the Pack]
bcowanwheels Offline
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ITS GOT TO BE COMPLETELY STRIPPED DOWN AND GO TO THE MACHINE SHOP TO BE CLEANNED AND MEASURED TO SEE WHAT YOU,VE GOT TO WORK WITH. I WENT THRU 3 - 292 BLOCKS AND NONE OF THEM HAD EVER BEEN APART TO GET 1 USEABLE BLOCK AND EVEN THEN I HAD TO GO .060 OVER AND SLEEVE 1 HOLE. THESE CHEVY 6'S ARE BAD TO WEAR OUT THE FRONT 2 CYLINDERS BECAUSE THOSE RUN SO MUCH HOTTER THAN THE REST HENCE THEY WEAR THE MOST. JUST TRYIN TO LOOK OUT FOR YOUR WALLET.....
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#72831 - 12/04/12 08:18 PM Re: J'ai from TN [Re: Beater of the Pack]
jmsaunders Offline
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Registered: 11/25/12
Posts: 24
Loc: Lebanon, TN
Very true Beater and I do have an overall plan but don't want to get locked into it. What may seem like a good idea on paper doesn't always turn out to be a good idea in reality which is why I love forums. Usually anything one wants to try has been tried but I was waiting to throw around those ideas until I got to that part of the build.

Here's what I have planned so far.
Engine: 292 mild build (RV cam, port/polish head, 1.84 intake, 1.5 exhaust, upgraded pistons if necessary)
Intake: Offy
Exhaust: Stock
Carb: unsure and will have lots of questions when making a selection (will probably do TBI later after engine installed)
Turbo: hunting for one of the early 80's buick one I've seen mentioned on the forum here.
Trans: SM465
Rear end: 3.08 gears (I think those would do well both in town and on the interstate behind the SM465)
Tires: 275/65/15

I guess overall I want a truck that is mostly period correct, has good street manners (I live 3 miles from work), does well on the interstate (I go visit family on weekends and that's about 1 1/2 hours away by interstate) and (wait for it) will make people say I CAN'T BELIEVE HE ONLY HAS AN INLINE 6 UNDER THE HOOD (yes we all have a bit of pride lol)

As I said even though these are my plans I'm open to suggestions and advice and don't want to get locked into them if another board member knows of something that would work just as well or better that I haven't thought of or sees a flaw in my overall plan.
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Jaimi

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#72832 - 12/04/12 08:41 PM Re: J'ai from TN [Re: jmsaunders]
jmsaunders Offline
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Registered: 11/25/12
Posts: 24
Loc: Lebanon, TN
Bcowanwheels I plan to take the block to a machine shop first before I do anything expensive to it (well I've cleaned off some of the gunk). Right now I'm just looking for suggestions on a good shop in Middle TN that has experience working on them. I know that any of them can clean it, bore it and install bearings but from what I understand and have read in Leo's book they are different than V8's and it's best to take them to a shop that has experience working on them.
I'd rather pay a shop a little more if they have experience working on these engines and they are referred to me by someone that has used them and can attest to their workmanship. Like most people I hate wasting money and for me that means paying the 'wrong' shop to do the machine work just because it was a better deal lol.
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Jaimi

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#72838 - 12/05/12 03:32 AM Re: J'ai from TN [Re: jmsaunders]
Hud I Offline
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Registered: 11/16/02
Posts: 166
Welcome J'ai. Welcome to the world of inlines. I am located a little north of you in Macon Co. I have done a 292. If I can help let me know. Keep it in line. Hud

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#72840 - 12/05/12 06:45 AM Re: J'ai from TN [Re: Hud I]
jmsaunders Offline
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Registered: 11/25/12
Posts: 24
Loc: Lebanon, TN
Hi Hud. Do you know of or have recommendations for a good shop to take my block to have it checked and machined?
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Jaimi

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#72851 - 12/05/12 03:24 PM Re: J'ai from TN [Re: jmsaunders]
bcowanwheels Offline
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Registered: 10/04/07
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Loc: kingsport, tn.
THIS IS A COMMON ENGINE SO ANY ENGINE MACHINE SHOP CAN HANDLE ANY MACHINEING NEEDED. DO SOME ONLINE RESCHERCH SO YOU KNOW ABOUT THIS PROCESS SO YOU DONT GET RIPPED OFF PRICE WISE.
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#72864 - 12/06/12 03:57 AM Re: J'ai from TN [Re: bcowanwheels]
Hud I Offline
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Posts: 166
Like Wheels said. It is a common engine and any good machine shop should handle any work. I am sure there is a shop in your area that can do the job. The best thing to do is get out and start asking around. I know there use to be a rod shop out on 70 towards Carthage. They might be a source of info. Wheels also gave some good advice.(RESEARCH) Always do your research. Hud

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#73072 - 12/19/12 06:30 PM Re: J'ai from TN [Re: jmsaunders]
jmsaunders Offline
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Registered: 11/25/12
Posts: 24
Loc: Lebanon, TN
I started disassembling my engine today just to get an idea of what sort of work is going to be needed on it. While doing that I saw some things that lead me to believe this engine has been rebuilt before.

When I was getting ready to mark/label my piston rods I noticed that they already have been. The cylinder walls look awesome (crossing my fingers as I haven't micro'd them yet for taper/straightness) and the pistons seem to be aftermarket ones.

That brings me to my question is there any way to id which ones they are? Is there a marking/casting number anywhere that I can research them.

They don't have the "D" shape depression that I believe the stock ones have. Instead they have a full depression. Here's a link to a picture of them.



As always thanks in advance for your help.
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Jaimi

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#73306 - 12/31/12 03:05 PM Re: J'ai from TN [Re: jmsaunders]
jmsaunders Offline
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Registered: 11/25/12
Posts: 24
Loc: Lebanon, TN
Been trying to do some more research before I start building. As I've read through several post I've seen where getting a wideband O2 sensor helps ensure the engine is tuned properly. I'm thinking that even though I don't need it for the engine that I'm building yet it can help me get the 250 that's in the truck running as efficient as possible. Also, once I do the swap it will swap over with no issues.

I've found this one on ebay
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Innovate-LC1-Wideband-DB-52mm-Kit-O2-BLUE-LC-1-3795-/270904657477#vi-content

and just want to check and see if this is the type that I need. The kit seems to include everything needed (Each kit includes the gauge, an LC-1 wideband controller, oxygen sensor & bung/plug, and the award-winning LogWorks engine-tuning software.)

Just wanted to get opinions before making a purchase.


Edited by jmsaunders (12/31/12 03:05 PM)
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#73312 - 12/31/12 06:19 PM Re: J'ai from TN [Re: jmsaunders]
Mean buzzen half dozen A.K.A. Hank Offline
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I like I use Innonative products, no problems @ all.

Those pistons look like they are low compression pistons & would give you about 7.5:1.

For the street I like to run close to 9.5 or more on regular gas depending on camshaft selection & other variables.

More than likely the pistons are down to hole & so will other standard 250 pistons.
I would recommend getting close to a zero deck if possible. Milling the deck some.
Or buy Tlowes forged pistons & IIRC require about .010" decking to get close to a zero deck

MBHD

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#73313 - 12/31/12 07:12 PM Re: J'ai from TN [Re: Mean buzzen half dozen A.K.A. Hank]
bcowanwheels Offline
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Registered: 10/04/07
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Loc: kingsport, tn.
THERE THE LOWEST COMP PISTONS, I,D NEVER REUSE THEM
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#73314 - 12/31/12 07:27 PM Re: J'ai from TN [Re: bcowanwheels]
jmsaunders Offline
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Registered: 11/25/12
Posts: 24
Loc: Lebanon, TN
Thanks for the feedback MBHD and Bcowanwheels. I wasn't planning on reusing the pistons as I'll need forged ones since hopefully the engine will eventually get a turbo added. I was mostly asking as that's how I learn best and I'm trying to learn as much as possible about this engine.
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Jaimi

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#74075 - 02/18/13 01:56 PM Re: J'ai from TN [Re: jmsaunders]
jmsaunders Offline
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Registered: 11/25/12
Posts: 24
Loc: Lebanon, TN
Well haven't posted much lately as I haven't done much to the truck or engine. However, I think I made a good score on ebay. picked up a turbo intake from an 81 buick for what I think is a great price.






I figure clean it up, look it over and replace any parts needed and I'll be one step closer to getting the truck turbo'. Plus I figure I can run it on the 250 while I building the 292.
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Jaimi

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#74076 - 02/18/13 02:33 PM Re: J'ai from TN [Re: jmsaunders]
bcowanwheels Offline
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TURBO'S OFF 4BT CUMMINS WORKS GOOD ON 250'S ALSO, VERY EASY TO ADAPT ALSO
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#81826 - 08/03/14 06:46 PM Re: J'ai from TN [Re: jmsaunders]
jmsaunders Offline
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Registered: 11/25/12
Posts: 24
Loc: Lebanon, TN
Well I had put this build off for a while so I could do some work on another project but I'm about ready to start with building my 292.

Took it to the machine shop and somebody has previously rebuilt it and all 6 cylinders are already sleeved. He mic'd em and they aren't out of round so I'll be able to use stock pistons.

I found several at Summit racing but was unsure if any of them would help raise CR they range from roughly 1.9 to 2.0 compression distance. I also looked at having some made for me from Flatlander racing. Has anybody had experience with them or advice on where I can find good stock size pistons I really don't want to bore the block since I don't have to.
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Jaimi

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#81854 - 08/05/14 01:06 PM Re: J'ai from TN [Re: jmsaunders]
THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER Online   content
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My advice: find another block to build up. Any block with six sleves has lost much of its inherent strength and is not a good candidate for performance work.
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