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That's the one.


Alex
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Alright, figured it out. It's going to take a 2.75" id to 2.5" od then a 2.5" id to 2.25"od which will then be welded to the exhaust up pipe. This will allow ne to use the flange that came with the kit.

Also having ny buddy clean up the ports on the exhaust manifold. He does a lot of pnp work for throttle bodies on boosted cars so im excited to see what he does on the old bird.


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Nice!
Post some pics of your progress.

MBHD


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Got the exhaust manifold on the bench. Cleaned it up a bit. The VHT Hight Temp paint I had on it was starting to turn to dust and flake off. Cleaned it in the parts washer tub. Cleaned some of the casting marks. Cut the two studs for the intake riser mating off. Set the heat riser to be in the always open position. Will tack it in place when I get the welder and its a bit warmer out. Hope I didn't mess up by removing the studs.

Taking it tommorrow to my buddy to do a little pnp on the exhaust ports.



Also found out I can recycle my exhaust piping from my DD exhaust system. I upgraded to a stainless steel 3" exhaust on my 01 Eclipse, leaving the 2.25" exhaust that I forgot to get recycled.

Use what ya got!




Last edited by 64fourdoor; 01/06/13 01:44 AM.

Alex
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Cool, but confused, are you using 2.25" exhaust?

W/a turbo, you do not want any flow restrictions, going from a 2.5" exit from the manifold to 2.25" up pipe to the turbo?

Should keep that up pipe 2.5" to the turbo.

Better to go w/a 3" tubing for the down pipe & the rest of the exhaust system.


MBHD

MBHD


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Hank,

I have a 250 stock manifold. 2.25 for that, right?


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Ok,
I had thought you had a 292 manifold w/the 2.5" outlet.
My mistake.

MBHD


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where are you guys finding the 2.5 manifolds? i was looking into an spa but being that my truck is lowered(extreme) clearance issues could pose a big problem


Josh
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I found them on RockAuto for a decent price around $150. Just had to search for the 292 in later Chevy Trucks. Otherwise on eBay the tractor manifolds were around $200. The only different is casting marks, really.


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Do you have a part number:)


Josh
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Don't you have a 292? Your Sig says you do. The stock outlet on a 292 is 2.5

Last edited by 64fourdoor; 01/07/13 11:52 PM.

Alex
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Josh,
I think a 292 with carry the SPA manifold and a T04 turbo. Remember the 292 is much taller than a 250.
The best pricing for the SPA manifold is at http://www.designengineering.com/catalog/spa-turbo-usa/turbo-manifolds/chevy

I can do measurements of a 292 with Parts on if needed.


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Yes i do and i was measuring it and the throat of the outlet is onlt 2" if you measure edge to edge where the doughnut would sit its 2.5 is that were you guys are measuring from i was confused 8|.

And i was looking at some pictures of my truck its a custome fron member and engine mounts i think its high enough now that i've seen a few of these part in real life

A tom speaking of parts hows my order coming8D


Josh
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Ebay is selling the Fergusson Massey John Deere 292 cast manifolds as low as $149 buy it now with free shipping.


'71 Chevy Shortbox 250ci
'99 Jeep TJ 242ci
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With a few searches to my photo relm i think i should e able to clear with an spa mainifold i'll post a pic later on


Josh
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I bought a used 292 manifold today and I measured the same dimensions as lowboygmc. 2" outlet hole, but a chamfered area around it is 2.5"


'71 Chevy Shortbox 250ci
'99 Jeep TJ 242ci
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Tom

Mr hot rod6 can mail me a manifold to az from him for 30 smackers less:0


Josh
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clearance whatcha think? \:\)


Josh
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Any progress on your exhaust manifold there Alex?


Josh
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 Originally Posted By: JStew
I bought a used 292 manifold today and I measured the same dimensions as lowboygmc. 2" outlet hole, but a chamfered area around it is 2.5"


Does it have the 3 studs for mounting a flange or does it have 2?

MBHD


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No my buddy who is doing this in his spare time has been busy with paid projects so its on the backburner for at least a week. Apparently I'm not the only one working on projects this time of year.


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year round project building is goal or addiction


Josh
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Three studs....


'71 Chevy Shortbox 250ci
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Wow that is laying LOW alright!


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Slow and steady.

Tapped fuel pump for boost. Carb is ready. Fitting the intake / exhaust today. Hot side and cold side are ordered. Less than $100 from mandrelbends.com.

Just waiting on money...


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For boost reference correct? How much boost are you planning to run?

Isn't there a rule of thump for psi o fuel for psi of boost?

Keep up thegood work!


Josh
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 Originally Posted By: lowboygmc
For boost reference correct? How much boost are you planning to run?

Isn't there a rule of thump for psi o fuel for psi of boost?

Keep up thegood work!


Usually 1:1 increase (1psi boost for 1 psi fuel pressure increase) on a carbureted application, so the fuel level in the float bowl remains constant.

I haven't seen a rising rate regulator (more than 1 psi fp: psi boost) on a carb, only on fuel injection).


My, what a steep learning curve. Erik II#5155
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Mostly doing it to stay safe and make sure fuel stays in the bowls. Since I'm using a larger carburator (600cfm 4bbl) I don't want to chance not having fuel in the carb when I need it. I don't plan on going over 6psi with my internals w/o an intercooler, and to my understanding the stock fuel pump will only push ~4 psi.


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Will mains from one block work with another when machining?


Josh
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Are you meaning, can any cap just be put on to perform machining operations and then the correct caps be put on for assembly. Or can any cap be used to replace an unserviceable one on a block.



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Unserciveable one i have two blocks kinda mixin and matching


Josh
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the block i am using only had 6 of them #6 was missing and i was curious if i could take #^ from the other block and substitute it..


and Alex did you get your exhaust manifold back yet? curious to see that beaut


Josh
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Usually, a machine shop will need to sort thru 4 or 5 caps to find one that
will be close enough to work.



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So I should bring all of the caps from the other block and let them find the closest fit?

Also when getting bigger valves installed those are like listings and are needed prior to machining?

My apologies for the Dunbar and frequent questions I have rebuilt a few engines just never hopped one up


Josh
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Are like pistons*


Josh
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Yes, it would a good idea to take all the caps and let them select the best one out of the bunch. As far as the head and block is concerned, its best to let the shop clean everything up first before you order parts, that way they can tell you the bore size to order your pistons and so forth. As far as valve size goes, you need to make sure all your parts and modifications complement each other based on your intended use for the vehicle.



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Check the cleaned and magna fluxed all parts block head and crank were good crank needs a regrind i was going to order tlowes pistons(292 40 over) his turbo cam valve train and reconditioned connecting rods with arpbolts


Josh
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any word on the exhaust manifold alex?


Josh
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No updates yet. It was ungodly cold last week so he never got around to it. His shop is unheated. Should be done soon.


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Any wofd on other parts or pieces of the build?


Josh
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