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70Nova #75274 05/24/13 12:16 PM
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Oh and make sure you have fuel in the tank \:\)

70Nova #75278 05/24/13 02:50 PM
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Ya I have fuel in the tank. So your saying the pump could not be pumping enough fuel? The carb is getting some fuel I know because I watched it squirt in there. I'll check my fuel system then and see.

wdschell #75279 05/24/13 03:19 PM
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Check any filters you may have, my Nova 6 cyl Rochester has a filter built into the carb inlet, easily missed. You could also turn the engine over with the fuel hose disconnected from the carb and run it into a clear bottle, you should see fuel coming out in pulses.

70Nova #75280 05/24/13 10:44 PM
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I got it I replaced my fuel pump and starter and it fired right up !!!!!!!!!

wdschell #75283 05/25/13 12:08 AM
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videoss???


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72 gmc lwb air ride 5 speed (soon) turbo 292 II# 6102
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Here it is

http://s1274.photobucket.com/user/wdschell55/media/IMG_0536_zpsb0239ced.mp4.html

Gonna set the timing with a light and adjust carb tomorrow

wdschell #75287 05/25/13 10:01 AM
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As soon as you get it running even somewhat decent, run it immediately at 2000rpm for 15-20 minutes! no idling! You can tweak the carburetor and ignition timing while it's running at 2000 to help smooth it out but don't do it at idle.

70Nova #75288 05/25/13 10:13 AM
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Watched the vid. There is something wrong with it, guessing with spark. Are the wires on right? It has a huge miss. Like only 2 cylinders are firing.


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65 Chevelle Wagon and 41 Hudson Pickup
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Ya the wires are on right but while my friend was messing with the distributor he said he could feel a shock

wdschell #75292 05/25/13 01:01 PM
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got good ground? Points gapped and clean?

70Nova #75293 05/25/13 02:24 PM
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As far as I know

wdschell #75294 05/25/13 02:40 PM
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If it is firing on enough cylinders to run - it should fire on all cylinders with some tweaking.

I just ran through a start-up of a rebuilt GMC - it backfired through the carb and only fired on a couple of cylinders. I realized that I had the correct firing order arranged on the cap in the wrong direction!

Fixed the firing order for Clockwise rotation and it fired right up and ran like a dream. 20 minutes at 2000 rpm later . . . and it was ready for road test.

50 GMC #75295 05/25/13 03:51 PM
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I'm pretty sure my firing order is right though. I feel like I'm at the point where I have stared at it for to long and need another set of eyes. The problem is really simple I feel like but don't really know where to start haha

wdschell #75320 05/29/13 01:01 AM
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OK guys here is the update. I did the can break in as specified and then fooled around with timing and Carb until we got it idling. The only problem is according to my timing light my timing is 51 degrees advanced and when I try to move it zero it doesn't want to run. I think the Carb is not adjusted right at all. By I did road test it and everything seems to be in order at least be able to get it to the exhaust shop so I don't go deaf from trying to tune it.

wdschell #75321 05/29/13 08:23 AM
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Timing Marks not located properly??


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I thought the same but when I turned it over by hand it seemed to be in the right spot

wdschell #75333 05/29/13 11:47 PM
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I would insert a positive stop into the sparkplug hole. Turn the engine in both direction to contact the stop and mark crank position. Find the spot 1/2 way between those marks. This is TDC. Then verify on balancer and the timing tab. This is where to start.

GM made balancers with timing marks in different places and timing covers also with tabs in different places. You could have the wrong mix of parts.

Your almost there.


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A positive stop is something that stops the piston from traveling all the way to TDC, SOLID. It cannot give at all.

I have made a few of these:



This screws into the spark plug hole and as you turn the crank BY HAND, the piston top will meet with the rounded off tip of the positive stop and, well, stop moving. Be gentle.

I knock the porceline out of an old spark plug, then drill and thread the inside for a suitable size bolt. I've long forgotten what size tap I used. You need to have a bolt long enough to offer you some range of adjustment, and a nut to lock the bolt to the plug shell once you find a good depth. Once screwed into the plug hole, none of this will budge when the piston hits it.

Then do what tlowe said, turn crank clockwise until the piston hits the stopper, mark the crank against a solid non-moving spot near it on the block or timig cover... then turn counter-clockwise until it stops again, and make another mark. True TDC is exactly half way between your marks.

70Nova #75345 05/30/13 09:18 PM
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That makes sense! I'll give it a try

wdschell #75346 05/30/13 09:22 PM
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I also checked my oil filter after the break in and it wasn't full of shavings so I guess I did it right haha :-)

wdschell #75368 06/01/13 12:01 PM
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Well I don't really know what I did but just messed around with the distributer and I got it running everything sounds smooth and the marks are closer with the positive stop method but still a little off. Thank you guys so much for your help there is no way I could've done it without y'all

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