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With the shock towers in the way for a engine mount turbo would a rear mount be a good way to go???
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Don't have to go all the way to the rear. My suggestion is to locate it (a turbo)into the passenger side where it will fit.
MBHD
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I think it would work very well, especially on a street setup, use a stock exhaust manifold with a wrapped 2" pipe to a some what large a/r turbo with an aluminum 2.5 compressor return pipe to a 2 barrel Holley carb. Stock engine, 350 HP easy.
Last edited by Turbo-6; 06/02/13 04:36 PM.
Turbo-6
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Great idea I will measure and check it out. Turbo-6 I have not ruled this out either.
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Bosanova modded his stock exhaust manifold & put a T4 flange near the fwd section of the manifold to fit his early Nova. Made good HP. Here is a vid. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8DsmPcLbuRg1963 Chevy Nova with a turbocharged 250cui Chevy inliner and Accel EFI. Makes 380hp@5000rpms and 412flbs at the wheels running 16psi boost. He was a member here but seems he fell off the Earth. I tried to contact him several times but no response.
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I would be happy with that at the flywheel. How much boos on a stock motor?? I think I would want around 5-6. I took a good look at the car and I have some room and think I could make it work. What turbo would a guy use???
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If you have the correct supporting equipment. You could run 15 psi on that stock engine. A kid on this BB has done it, & he did not have the correct supporting equipment, or good fuel, for a while he was using 87 octane & high boost. I would use the same turbo he used, it was cheap$$.
MBHD
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15 on a stock motor, wow that is way more than I thought. I will take a look and see what he did. took a good look at the car and if I move that batt. to the trunk (wanted to do anyway) I can get a remote oil filter, go to and electric fuel pump, and run the pipe from the manifold under the front of the block, I should have room to run the exhaust between the starter and the frame rail, the pipe to the carb will be easy too. The motor that I have is pretty much brand new, there is NO sludge or nothing on the head, looks brand new under there!!!
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Thanks for the link. I have some parts to sell, a 350 with 30K, a good set of aluminum heads and such, maybe I can get enough to get a turbo set up.
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Sure, IIRC, the kid spent about $1200, no intercooler or other supporting mods, just the basics to get a turbo system up & running.
MBHD
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Not to bad of a price, more power per dollar than just head and cam. I already have the offy intake and a 390 on the motor now.
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What is a generic parts list??? I know I'll need a turbo(T4?), manifold, hat for the carb, boost gauge. I'm guessing a larger fuel pump, and lines (5/16" line now). Is it better to have a internal waste gate? I'd like 350-375 HP at the crank and a top RPM of about 5500. Is that doable? Oh and still be totally streetable.
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You'll need oil feed and return with appropriate fittings, hot side piping, cold side piping, post compressor piping (downpiping), boost referenced fuel pump (if planning more than 5-6psi boost). Best to get a Wideband for tuning, Boost/Vacuum Gauge, Oil PSI gauge, and Fuel PSI gauge.
You CAN use the stock intake/exhaust manifolds if you're crafty with porting/milling. There is a video on Youtube of a guy with a boosted inline running stock EVERYTHING in his ratrod. He ended up burning the seals on his compressor before the motor went, so it is possible.
I'm in the process of boosting my 250 going for the cheapest setup possible. I have maybe $750 into it and I still need my coldside and downpiping, which would tack on another $75-100.
You'll need a welder, a way to cut steel pipe, sockets and wrenches (9/16", 1/2"), hammer, screwdrivers, wiring crimps and strippers.
Also, a general know-how of how turbochargers work is great to have.
Alex
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Also need an intercooler for running more than 8psi on stock internals, otherwise you'll detonate and your rings will fry. In my area, SMIC's for 1g and 2g DSM's are a dime a dozen, so I snagged one for $40
Alex
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I would run an intercooler regardless if you are running 5 psi of boost, or even less. New intercoolers are cheap $$ , no reason not to install one. Just an example on an intercooler kit for $187. http://www.ebay.com/itm/TURBO-CHARGER-IN...5762300&vxp=mtrCompressed air from a turbo, even @ 5 psi is pretty hot & if running cast pistons, you need as cool intake charge as possible to prevent detonation & making the pistons let go/blow apart. MBHD
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No need for an intercooler until 15 psi or more boost. Get the tuneup correct and don't use a cheap turbo.
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Run an intercooler, there cheap & your cast stock used pistons will thank you.
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MBHD are you paid lobbyist for the intercooler association? HA HA
Last edited by Turbo-6; 06/10/13 11:47 AM.
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OK I have found a wide range of turbos, I think a T3/T4 hybrid is the way to go. I found this one with a internal 8PSI wastegate http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant.mvc...gory_Code=T3T4. I know this is a small turbo but from what I have read this should spool up quick, which is what I want. I do not have much room for a intercooler but I have found some that will work. I think I may go and install a Speedway gasser front clip so I have room for the turbo, and plus gasser are just cool. I had to sell my 63 Altered car this spring. Thanks for the help.
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MBHD are you paid lobbyist for the intercooler association? HA HA
Thats funny stuff! But lets all play nice;)
Josh 72 gmc lwb air ride 5 speed (soon) turbo 292 II# 6102
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The first one would be the better of the two. http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant.mvc...egory_Code=T3T4Turbine wheel is a bit small, but you are only wanting to boost a little & boost quickly. MBHD
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Thanks, Yes I want little boost (10PSI or less) and I want it quick. I would still need a waste gate with that one right???
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Yes you would need that style wastegate. Unless you bore a hole on the turbine housing & add an internal wastegate. Example of where the hole is bored for a T3 housing: http://www.compturbo.com/products/housingsI like this set-up for a internal wastegate http://www.atpturbo.com/root/releases/images/release102705/atp-wgt-023_3.jpgit allows for a 3" downpipe & a "V" band flange. You could use that external wastegate, but need to figure out what size valve you need to use. High boost vs low boost will use different size valves to work more efficiently. External wastegates work better for all out HP & usually better boost control, but require more fabrication & more exhaust pipes. Internal, easier to use, good for packaging in tighter areas, used more in low boost applications & factory turbo cars for the most part. My Syclone uses a stock internal wastegate & I run 25 psi of boost pressure. Example of Mitsubishi Syclone turbine housing w/wastegate: MBHD
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I just found it on the net, actually this is the first I seen this type myself.
Probably could find it on the net somewhere, but off hand I do not know to find that particular unit. Sorry.
MBHD
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They do not state what size compressor wheel or turbine wheels are. Most likely, they are too small.
Look for about a 50-57 MM compressor wheel & a turbine wheel close to 2.5"ish exit. Or roughly these measurements Inducer: 67.2 mm Exducer: 58.8 mm / inch
MBHD
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OK thanks for the info I'm very new to turbos.
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Sure no prob.
Most of those T3 turbos on Ebay are for 4 cyl engines.
But if you look hard enough you can find something descent for your six.
MBHD
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Completely wrong for your application. The person that recommended that to you, does this person know what you are wanting to get out of a turbo? Must be some sort of joke, correct? How much boost & power & RPM did this person think you are looking for? MBHD
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Remember, Once bit by the turbo bug you always want more, it's not that far off from what you need. It's only a 66mm right?
I know he's going to want more boost!
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I know turbo boost is addicting! But remember, this engine is 250 ci, not a 292, high mileage cast used pistons, not forged. max RPM 4500-5000. He wants to race in the 1/8 mile , not the 1/4. Street driver, wants boost to come in fast & low RPM, like seeing boost by 1800 RPM, doubt a Turbine A/R of 1.0 & larger is going to see boost under 2000 RPM. He wants descent mileage also. MBHD
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Hank is right. I want, low boost (8psi) even thought my motor is fresh, and I want it quick, I want my RPM limit to be 5000RPM. I drag race the car one weekend a year ad only make a few passes. The car has to be 100% reliable. We street drive the car all summer long to the tune of about 3K miles.
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I don't know what size for a rear mount, but I have a pair of TD04-13G turbos off a Volvo for a similarly sized engine.
Looking for 8-10 psi, similar operating range, sub 2K boost onset, redline is 6000 ish.
I forget why you wanted the turbo[s] out back, if it's astetics this information will not help you.
However, every once in a while you can find a TD04-19G used on fleabay for not much (under $200) if I was close to driving my setup except for a turbo in a home brew rear mount, I would try that one, after porting the waste gate (250 isn't huge, but it's a whole lot bigger than the engine that turbo was intended for).
My, what a steep learning curve. Erik II#5155
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