|
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 43
Active BB Member
|
OP
Active BB Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 43 |
Hi all again,
Getting closer to getting the 250 back together. I have read everywhere that I should drill and tap the crank but I am not sure I want to risk it and screw something up.
I know using a mallet is not great on the thrust bearing but I had an idea to help prevent damage.
If I put a block of wood between the engine stand and the back of the crank, wedging it forward, then using a mallet to install it. This would keep the the load off the thrust bearing.
Would this work?
|
|
|
|
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 378
Contributor
|
Contributor
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 378 |
Heat the balancer around the center hole to make the hole bigger, you get an easier fit that way. Use a handheld propane torch or something but don't heat too much or you may compromise the bond of the rubber membrane in between the hub and the pulley (unless you have a solid metal balancer, I dunno). By getting it just hot enough that you don't want to touch it with bare hands, would help a lot. Your trick would also work but it still sends shocks through the length of the crank. Maybe try both these tricks together and be gentle. I'm facing the same challenge again soon with mine, and I also need a new balancer... just noticed a crack on mine where the keyway is. Didn't see it when I took it off. Didn't look for one either. If you drill and tap, you need to get the drill hole perfectly straight with the crank. If you screw it up, well, you are no worse off than what you started with - no tapped hole at the end of the crank
|
|
|
|
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 3,556 Likes: 35
1000 Post Club
|
1000 Post Club
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 3,556 Likes: 35 |
Spend the time and drill/ tap the crank. You will be glad you did.
The crank drills and taps easily. Drill it at least 1.5" and tap about 1-1.25. You never know how long the bolt might be.
Inliner Member 1716 65 Chevelle Wagon and 41 Hudson Pickup Information and parts www.12bolt.com
|
|
|
|
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 43
Active BB Member
|
OP
Active BB Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 43 |
Yeah, that's what I really want to do but I am not sure I can get it square in the crank and I am running out of time to get this engine back together and I don't want to create a new problem.
|
|
|
|
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 3,556 Likes: 35
1000 Post Club
|
1000 Post Club
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 3,556 Likes: 35 |
Yeah, that's what I really want to do but I am not sure I can get it square in the crank and I am running out of time to get this engine back together and I don't want to create a new problem. Create a new problem? Like a bent crankshaft, damaged balancer or wiped thrust bearing? Make a jig. Use a socket that fits tight to crank snout with a 3/8 shaft size. The crank is already centered for the bit. Allign and drill with correct bit for 7/16 fine thread.
Inliner Member 1716 65 Chevelle Wagon and 41 Hudson Pickup Information and parts www.12bolt.com
|
|
|
|
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 43
Active BB Member
|
OP
Active BB Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 43 |
Okay, I think you got me doing the drill and tap method.
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 4,585 Likes: 19
1000 Post Club
|
1000 Post Club
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 4,585 Likes: 19 |
Once you drill it you can use the right tool to install your dampener. And Not hammer on to the crank.
Larry/Twisted6 [oooooo] Adding CFM adds boost God doesn't like ugly.
|
|
|
|
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 378
Contributor
|
Contributor
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 378 |
Report back with your experiences, I'll probably be doing that later this summer too.
|
|
|
|
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 43
Active BB Member
|
OP
Active BB Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 43 |
Taking a break for lunch so I figured I would update this.
I was able to drill the crank. I found the center had a 1/4" step that allowed a drill bit to snugly center and square up. I started with that and drilled about 1 3/4" deep. Stepped up a few sizes and finished drilling to 2". Then a couple more steps up in size until I got to the final tap size needed. Got my 7/16-20 tap and it is going in nice. Have about another 1/2" to go and should be done.
Overall it's not hard and getting the first pilot hole is the hardest but after that, it goes easy. Thanks to everyone who kept saying I can do this. It will definitely make installing the balancer much easier.
|
|
|
|
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 43
Active BB Member
|
OP
Active BB Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 43 |
A follow up to this. Used a balancer installer and was able to put the new balancer on without any problems. Definitely worth the time to drill and tap the crank.
Thanks to all again.
|
|
|
|
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 5,015 Likes: 47
1000 Post Club
|
1000 Post Club
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 5,015 Likes: 47 |
"I wonder if God created man because he was disappointed in the monkey?" Mark Twain
|
|
|
|
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 551
Major Contributor
|
Major Contributor
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 551 |
Where there any pictures to go along with this i am hoing to be doing thos very soon.
Maybe pictures of the jig and such would e awesome for the record books
Josh 72 gmc lwb air ride 5 speed (soon) turbo 292 II# 6102
|
|
|
|
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 551
Major Contributor
|
Major Contributor
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 551 |
Also in leos book he says to go to a 1/2 by 20 is that too much?
Josh 72 gmc lwb air ride 5 speed (soon) turbo 292 II# 6102
|
|
|
|
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 3,669 Likes: 42
1000 Post Club
|
1000 Post Club
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 3,669 Likes: 42 |
The snout on the crank is the same size as a SBC, and they are tapped with a 7/16 x 20. These balancers don't fall off without a bolt, a 7/16" bolt is plenty.
Class III CNC Machinist/Programmer
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 272
Contributor
|
Contributor
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 272 |
The snout is also the same as an older GMC six which has a 5/8-18 thread. I have made custom washers as the originals often crack when torqued to factory specifications. Use a new grade 8 fastener and lock washer too!
Last edited by Ken; 08/07/13 02:39 AM.
|
|
|
|
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 3,669 Likes: 42
1000 Post Club
|
1000 Post Club
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 3,669 Likes: 42 |
That's true Ken, but they're also steel, while the lions share of the 3rd generation crankshafts are only cast iron, and not very good cast iron either. If you could find one of the rare steel 292 cranks, then I would say that 1/2" would be safe, but not for a cast crank.
Class III CNC Machinist/Programmer
|
|
|
|
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 551
Major Contributor
|
Major Contributor
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 551 |
Cool mine has already been drilled
For a turbo car would i need to drill any on the reverse side of the crsnk for the fkywheel?
Josh 72 gmc lwb air ride 5 speed (soon) turbo 292 II# 6102
|
|
|
|
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 3,669 Likes: 42
1000 Post Club
|
1000 Post Club
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 3,669 Likes: 42 |
You could drill the flywheel bolts to 1/2" if their not already. Just make sure the flange doesn't get too thin around the bolt holes. You can also drill and tap the camshaft snout for a bolt also.
Class III CNC Machinist/Programmer
|
|
|
0 members (),
420
guests, and
30
robots. |
Key:
Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod
|
|
|
|