Inliners International Forums General Discussion Hi Performance Split exhaust and more power!

Couple of things come to mind on the surging issue. first, you have to have heat to the manifold. Putting water heat to my manifold all those many years ago was an enormous improvement. Second, you might consider switching to the smaller 216 Rochester B carbs. Smaller carbs, better for drivability. Lastly, you have to synch the cabs in with a Unisyn or similar tool. Both carbs have to have the throttle blades adjusted the same at idle, in essence, in a perfect world, the blades occupy the same relative position to the off idle transition slot or hole, as the other. Otherwise, one carb will lead the other into the off idle circuit and give you the sort of surging/stumble you describe. The Unisyn uses vacuum through the too and carb to help dial in the adjustment.

Yeah beater of the pack I tried to lose a picture but couldnt quit figure out how, the cars been running good (just took a 700 mile road trip at 80-90 mph the whole way) was unable to find a good tach. That wasn't a hideous full size one, sorry for the lack of response been a busy week of work, I have determined the jets in my carbs are to large and giveing the motor to much gas, they are currently .058 in size I have two .054 s in my pile of carb parts I was gonna try or is that to much of a dramatic drop in size? And when I go to put duel exhaust on how important is it to convert to a water heat set up on the intake manifold? Currently it has factory exhaust heat Will I be ok without putting any heat to it?
Thanks a bunch for all the help talk have given me its helped dramaticly improve my engines performance and fun factor!!

Bakerdude,
WOW, cruising at 80-90 it must be running better, congrats.

Heated Intake:
My Clifford is fine w/o heat but thats usually 50F or warmer outside here in Cali. It does hit a dewey 35F-40F in the winter and then its a little rough til it warmd up.

IIRC it can get a bit Brisk in Wyoming?
Yup, I'd really try for manifold heat of some kind.
The old Ford 4bbl spacer runs heater hose hot water thru it, but I dunno of any such 1bbl spacer.

OR, can you use closed air cleaners with a heat snorkel up from the exhaust for fall/winter/spring, and ditch those ugly things for summer?

JETS:
Thats not a huge step from .058 to .054, about right to see what the stopwatch says. How do U know its too rich?

You can also use Holley jets in those little Rochester carbs, just check clearance to the bottom of the bowl and file if needed.

HOWEVER- the numbers dont line up. If you have a .058 Roch jet, then a H64 Holley jet is about its equal. But for tuning, you can easily get any Holley jet so its way easier to tune.

Yes it can deffinently get colder in the winter where I live -5 and 0 degree temps or colder are more than normal but that's what a garage is for but none the less a heated manifold sounds like a must, how difficult would it be to install the water heat the the new repop style offenhauser manifold I am running?

I determined I was getting to much gas when running because when I would drive up hills over a 1/4 mile or so it would lose speed and start to chug up the hill (if going 85 speed would drop all the way down to 70) there would also be a slight smell of gas when going up the hill, once to the top of a hill I then have to drive a while longer at the slower speed to burn off the excess fuel before my exceleration up to 80 and more would return.
This is also a large problem when driveing around town at slower speeds it chives and you can smell the gas until you rap up the rpms to try and burn off the excess gas

But other than those small issues its running great and has far better performance than when I used to run the same motor in stock form!!
Thanks again guys for all the help!

Hot water is fairly straightforward. If you are lucky, you will have an outlet on your them housing on the driver side that you can use as the feed. As for the manifold, just look at the bottom and see if it has the chamber for the stock exhaust heat. if it does, then look to see if there are sheet metal core plugs on the bottom. Many of the intakes do. The core plugs will leak if you plumb water to them so you have to have someone weld little plugs over them so no leaks. Then, just make up an aluminum plate to cover the chamber, drill and tap the plate for two fittings, bolt the plate on just like the stock exhaust manifold, run water from the therm housing to the manifold, and then from the manifold to the heater core in the stock manner. Works great.