Inliners International Forums General Discussion Blown and Injected TBI on a 194?

Hello all!

I just got my third Nova with an inline!!! I'm stoked!

So, I have seen a video on youtube of a guy using a TBI setup from a 4.3L vortec... I was wondering if anyone here has done this?

I'd like to go with a TBI or even EFI because I am going to be driving this car year round and these Canadian winters are pretty tough on carburetors!

I have even thought about making my own system using 3 TBI units. I'm having trouble finding the right sized TB, as well as finding a controller for it! Perhaps best left for a time when money is falling from the trees and I have nothing better to do with my time!

So, for now, TBI from a 4.3L or even a Jeep 4L!

Cheers!

There are several old threads on here about TBI conversions. Efi-diy and i did a demo at Bonneville back in '08. We put an '89 GM 350 TBI on my GMC 270. We had it running in about an hour. We had done quite a bit of prep but he in Canada and me in Nevada. The fuel connection was no good and there was a big vacuum leak but it ran. We used a Megasquirt for a controller. Someone else did one with a stock controller with a new prom.
Unfortunately our search engine here is less than useless but If you click on my name, then on my posts, and head back to between pages 25-29 you will see these threads. Thread names: Help needed to change 4 piles into 1 : TBI set-ups Mega-Squirt - GM ECM. : Re: Injection system for 302? If this doesn't work for you let me know.

Thanks Beater!

I am slowly reading my way through all the information there! Trying not to miss anything.

While I am here, I am going to ask this question... does this make sense... a turbo will improve cold engine drivability because the boost causes higher intake temperatures.

I am having a hard time with my 194 during cold engine driving. When I start the car and let it warm on high idle for maybe 3-4 minutes, then put it in gear, it stalls every time! It seems as though the engine is being loaded up. I'm not sure if that is because the higher idle is causing the converter to actually be working which is causing the load, or if it is just a tuning issue.

Any thoughts?

Cheers!

Choke pull-off adjustment

Sorry for the delay... I keep trying to post from my BB and it wont work, so I have to wait until I get onto a computer!

The choke works as it should!

It was suggested to me that it is running too lean at idle, and with the choke partially on, is starving the engine under the load of 'in gear'. I tried to change this by turning the mixture screw OUT 1.5 turns. Did not seem to help!

What about the heat riser flap in the exhaust manifold? If it would close for some reason when it is in gear? I cant see it happening, but stranger things...!

I can hear the engine loading up. Especially when I come to a stop! Almost like the trans is not letting go! Best way I can describe it is like letting a clutch pedal out just far enough to stop you rolling backward. WITHOUT touching the throttle! That is what is feels and soulds like! Only for the first 7-10 minutes of running/driving! Then it will do it once in a blue moon!

Any other suggestions?

What carb does it have?
Timing is too low?
Ported vacuum source for the distributer, not ported?
What RPM does it idle at,, in gear, neutral/park?
PG trans?

MBHD

Ok, so here it goes!

I checked the timing... was at about 16 BTDC! The book calls for 8 BTDC. Adjusted. RPM is about 900... any less it seems to want to die!
I checked the plug gap... .027ish! Book calls for .035". Adjusted.
The plugs are AC Delco R44XLS. The book says the should be 46.
The plugs are all quite dry so I adjusted the mixture screw, which is now at 3.5 turns out!
The carb is a Rochester BV and has a rebuild tag on it.
The only mod I have done is the addition of a pertronix ignition.
It is a powerglide trans.
Idles around 900 in park and drops significantly in gear!
The vacuum signal is the same location as every other 6 that I have had... the tube that goes to the pcv has a little branch for the vacuum line.

With all this done, it is better, but only slightly. It still wants to die when cold. I had thought that it was a timing issue... fast idle causing mechanical advance then drop it in gear and under load the rpm drops causing the timing to return to base. The timing and RPM adjust didn't seem to help that!
I am not concerned about fuel supply, because it runs great off idle!
Partially plugged idle circuit? Why does it run better (but not good) when it is warm?

Blowin my brains out here!

You might want to try a different carb if possible, & see if it acts the same as your carb.
Just because it has a rebuilt tag, does not mean it works.
I have installed a "NEW" $250,000 auto pilot computer & guess what, it did not work.

MBHD

This is the reason why the Camaro sits under a tarp?

[quote=jalopy45 #4899This is the reason why the Camaro sits under a tarp? [/quote]

What is your question?

MBHD

I dont have access to a known good 1 barrel carb, though I do have a good 2 barrel!

I had been thinking of buying the transdapt adaptor to make use of it. It's only $15 at summit racing (plus about a million dollars to ship it to me!)

The only downside is that the carb I have is a Holley 500cfm. Way too much for my little engine! But may be worth a try!

Humor Hank , yer Camaro is under the tarp because the new $250,000 autopilot computer didn't work.

I get that it was humor, was wondering if you thought the autopilot computer I paid for it, & I am in debt for 250G's That's all.

My Camaro is sitting because of me being broke.

MBHD

The 500 carb should not be too big, but, I never used one on a 194 though.
I would give it a shot, you might like it better.
Only thing you would lose is a few bucks purchasing the adaptor, @ least you are not buying a new $200+ dollar carb just to try something out for trouble shooting puposes.

MBHD