Inliners International Forums General Discussion Drive Train T-5 O-ring

I'm currently rebuilding a T-5 from an '84.5 Camaro and found the kit did not include an o-ring for the top cover to the extension housing. I used a program at work and got the original GM number, called GM and although it had been discontinued they found me one. I just got it in today and the measurements are as follows
OD - 1"
ID - .8"
Thickness - .1"

Hope this helps someone who may be doing the same as myself. I paid $15 for an o-ring I'm sure I could have purchased for a dollar, but without knowing the dimensions it would have been an educated guess at best. I didn't really want to pull the housing again once it's in the vehicle if it leaked!

Also, the GM# is 14058970, discontinued.

I have access to that "O" ring , if anyone needs one. Let me know.

Mitch,
Anything that is "T5" related catches my interest. Thanks for posting the info about the O-ring.

Check out the T5 section on my website. I have photo documented a step by step rebuild of a 1984 Camaro/S10 T5 hybrid among other things that are T5 related. My 1984 Camaro T5 is ready for sealant but I'm waiting to do that until it's time to install it.

What kind of shifter will you use?

Jay

Lugnutz, glad to see you are on here! I used your website quite often during the rebuild. I am running buckets so I stayed with the traditional Camaro tailhousing.

I lucked out and still had the old o-ring for the speedometer cable, found a new one the same size and swapped it out.

I am taking a TKO600 shifter, cutting it down to fit, and rewelding it together. The width spacing on the bolts is perfect, just have to cut out about 2 inches of the base, tack together, add 1/4 strips on the sides, and weld it up. The shifter rod has the same geometry as a stock shifter, but doesn't stick down far enough. I have a machinist friend who is turning it in a lathe so the bushing fits up about 3/4" higher, which will put the shifter at the perfect length AND give me a shorter throw! Hopeing it'll all work out, when the rear bolts are in the TKO600 shifter with the rod removed, you can see it lines up perfectly. I will post some pictures when I get the parts back from my buddy and assemble it.

Mitch,
I bought a T56 shifter off of eBay. It has the Hurst style bolt on shifter handle connection. The seller said it came from a T56 transmission. I looked at his photos on eBay and took a chance because it just "looked right". The T56 shifter base plate is exactly the right size and bolts right on, but some have a different base plate size so beware. I think some have a longer base plate. You can see mine in the last 2 photos of the T5 rebuild post on my website. It isn't a short throw but I will probably modify it later so it will be.

I ran across this shifter. It says it's for a Mustang T5 but it should still work, right? The price is right, though.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/191112434197?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

I thought (but could be wrong, don't take it for gospel) that the Mustang shifter needs to be shortened, but can't remember where I read that. I believe someone bought one just like that and shortened it down, gaining shift stops and short throw.

Lugnutz, a T56 drops right in? Or am I misreading your post. That could be helpful for finding quality used shifters...

I have not researched this much. The shifter I have matches a few of the "Google images" found if you Google T56 shifter. The Google images show the longer style Mustang base plate. Also shown are the shorter (almost square) shifter base plate. Mine has a base plate that matches the S10 and Camaro base plate exactly. When I bolt it onto my T5, it shifts just fine.

Here are a few shots of my T56 shifter mounted on an S10 tail housing.
T56 shifter 1

T56 shifter 2

When I bought it, it looked like this one. but I swapped handles.

Just had to put a shifter bushing in, GM#14105942.

Here is a picture of the modified shifter after it was prettied up a bit.

Assembled my T-5 and couldn't shift into the 2-4-R gears. Took it apart and found the shift shaft roll pin sticking out too far, ground it down flush and re-assembled in a rush. Shouldn't have done that, of course. I must not have had things aligned when they went back in because I can't get my shift shaft lined up with the shifter bushing (term?). I was very frustrated that day and just bolt it together and put it aside for when I have more time and patience. I'm not sure I didn't crack the cover bolt holes, I blew them all out but should have chased them with chasing taps(something I need to invest in).

Just needed to vent my frustration about my own idiocy sometimes...

I'd never try to insult you, but is I t possible that the shifter was reassembled wrong? I know a guy who couldn't shift into 2nd and 4th and his mechanic had mounted the S10 shifter (modified handle) backwards.

The shifter base plate can mount either way, but the handle needs to be at the tail end.

No, the first problem was definitely the roll pin. When I had the top assembly removed I watched everything work and why it wouldn't go into the rear gears. I had tried to move the rod without the shifter in using a pick through the hole and it still wouldn't shift. The roll pin was sticking out and hitting something stopping the shaft from moving far enough.

This roll pin?

That's the roll pin that won't line up now, but the roll pin I had to grind was the one at the other end of the shift shaft.