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It's getting down to the last details, now I need push rods for my 230 build. What good and reasonable (Under $200, lol) options do I have for my engine, something stronger than stock, 100lbs spring pressure but not a high revving race build?
Tried search, no help.
Thanks,
Jan
Last edited by 70Nova; 11/13/14 09:09 AM.
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Try Trend
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&frm=1&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&sqi=2&ved=0CB4QFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Ftrendperform.com%2F&ei=A9NkVN_QN8yYyASs0oH4Dw&usg=AFQjCNGh2NpJ1ifjZxFQ3V8dQWsfidW1Xg&sig2=eqQwi5fwrm6oJ4ZnKYoPrA&bvm=bv.79189006,d.aWw
I'm not sure on pricing but around Motown they are very popular for all the custom engine work going on around here. I think they have on-the-shelf parts for most popular configurations in .050 increments. Plus, they'll build anything you want. Let me know what you find.
FORD 300 inline six - THE BEST KEPT SECRET IN DRAG RACING!
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I ordered longer than stock from Summit racing. I think they are Comp Cams brand. Dunno if they are stronger than stock or not.
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Smith Bros. was something we always used, but they were custom and may have a higher price tag than you want.
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Comp Cams has their High Energy series push rods that they say "Meets or exceeds" OEM quality, nothing about strength or how well they are suited for higher spring pressures. Very little info on them. Not even weight. Price less than $30 for the set. Their tougher pushrods do not have a listing for these engines at all.
Browsed the Trend site and found something for about $75 a set. NOT a bad price to me, if they are tough enough. I'd pay more if I knew for sure I'm getting what I am looking for.
I'm hoping to hear from someone who has used something other than the cheap stock replacement stuff and found it to be good.
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I use SmithBrothers. Great product and service.
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I'm hoping to hear from someone who has used something other than the cheap stock replacement stuff and found it to be good.
I make my own. First off let me recommend at least 3/8 diameter for performance work. Especially if you think you may upgrade to a bigger cam at some point in the engine's life. 5/16 pushrods are marginal for any hipo work. Friends of mine who run Comp engines have found out on a Spintron (essentially a dyno for valvetrains) that with their huge cams even a 1/2 inch tapered pushrod in the lengths needed for an inline six is marginal. I order 3/8 4130 chrome moly seamless tubing in bulk lengths. I ordered the correct ends from Crane. After calculating the correct length I cut the tube to size, reamed the ends and pressed in the ends. The first time I tried to press in the ends the pushrod buckled before the ends seated. So I made a sleeve with a 3/8 ID and used that to enhance the "column buckling threshold" by slipping it over the pushrod before pressing in the ends on a hydraulic press. There you have it - another speed secret from The Frenchtown Flyer
FORD 300 inline six - THE BEST KEPT SECRET IN DRAG RACING!
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This engine will never be modified again I hear what you're saying and I've made my own before, for other engines. This is and will remain a mild build. I just wanted some peace of mind with the push rods, as with everything else. I generally don't want to buy the cheapest, "weakest" parts, if the next step up is reasonably priced. Poor people can't afford to buy cheap stuff.
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"at least 3/8 diameter for performance work"
X2 - the diameter is far more important than which steel alloy or even wall thickness. The longer the pushrod (viz. 292 vs. 250), the weaker it is.
The best rule: largest diameter that fits.
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going to the next size up would mean drilling the head, not sure if the holes need to be elongated too. Not gonna do it at this point. Depending on how much I like the engine, I might do that later along with roller rockers. For now though, stock size sticks will have to do.
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Once you drill the heads for larger pushrods, you will then have to use guide plates and then step up to a hardened pushrod. Both will add additional expense you may not be counting on at this time as well.
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Yup knew that much, and I did take that into account when converting to screw on rocker studs...... just didn't want to go that far, but I felt it would be shortsighted not to leave me that option for later...
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