Inliners International Forums General Discussion Hi Performance Casting of the PES intake manifold

Taped this yesterday.
It is neat to document the work involved with making a product. Hats off to anyone who works in a factory making parts. Without factories, none of us would have jobs. Now get out there and try to buy USA made!

https://youtu.be/CDyyJ_I0hBw

It's been almost 20 years since I've done that and when I did it I only did it twice in a classroom. At the college I went to it was required that we learn to weld, smelt, and cast for the Mechanical Engineering program. I've applied the welding to my project but not the casting nor the smelting.

What is the core made of again? I don't remember. I know it's sacrificial but for the life of me I can't recall what the material was.

Thanks for the video. A whole lot came back to me watching it.

The core is also sand. There is a separate core box used for it. The sand is blown in with a glue mixture and sets up to the hardened yellow core seen in the vid.

That is a lot of work. Those guys look like they've done it a few times.

That is a sweet intake. Makes me rethink going multi carb! Doses the carb size go up too, would a 390 be to small??? I have a 650 DP that may like a home on that intake

Tom,
Thanks for posting that video.
I guess the thing I never got was how is that center core located so the wall thickness is correct?

The only thing I ever cast was a little anvil paperweight in shop class! : )

Pete

When he is setting the core down in, notice at the intake flange how the yellow core sticks out about 2"? It does the same thing when exiting the carb flange area. This is how the core is centered.


A Holley 4 BBl carb is a direct bolt on. No adaptors.

Will the intake clear the shock tower on a first gen Nova?

Hood clearance is the main issue, its very tall.

That is what a sawsall is for LOL. For 25HP I'd gladly cut a home in the hood, long as I can see over it!

I would ask Tom to how well it works as a street car manifold.
Also, if dyno tested on the 250 mule engine. Outputs? RPM's?

MBHD

Keep in mind it's not a heated intake. That's fine for track use. Not so good in cold climates on the street.

Right now my offy is not heated, I only drive it a bit (less than 1k yr) and have no issues, other than little cranky at first start up but no worse than any carbed V8 I have had, but still great info. Wounder how well it respods from stock head to full on ported and big valves.

Not to pick on gbauer, so don't take it that way, but
I think gbauer's problem with hesitation was a lot of things that needed to be sorted out & not really a problem of using a non heated intake manifold.
His engine sounded totally lean @ first, carb jetting, accelerating pump sizing, mixture screws you name it, all seemed to be off.

I never had a problem with non heated intake manifolds, Offy or Cliffords, winter, summer no problem's what so ever.

Yes, it was a little cold blooded when first started, but that was not much of a concern, drove it everyday that way, & with no choke, just blipping the throttle.

I think gbauer, can go back to a non heated intake manifold after it gets all sorted out I bet there would not be any difference in driving, after it is partially wormed up, not even full running temperature.

Yes, if you have a heated intake manifold you will be able to take right off when completely cold, but like I said, once it's warmed up, never had a problem.


MBHD

I second that. I have driven my car at 30* no choke and all is well. I think part of the key is having a manual transmission. You have much more control over engine speed, and easier keeping it running cold.

[quote=tlowe #1716]When he is setting the core down in, notice at the intake flange how the yellow core sticks out about 2"? It does the same thing when exiting the carb flange area. This is how the core is centered.


Tom,
Thanks for explaining that.

Pete

Problems I've run into that made mine run bad:

-Trans vacuum line was OK up top but the end wasn't connected. All sorts of issues there.

-Power valve was bad.

-Power pump check valve bar had fallen out and ball was rolling around in the diaphram.

-Power pump was not adjusted properly

-Timing was off

-Vac advance needed adjusting

-squirter size was off

-Jets were off

-Electric choke needed adjusting

...just a few problems...

It was a lot of things together that made it really difficult to find them all. Some were self-inflicted. Others just happened. Still others were like that when I got it (no joke. Trans never shifted right until that hose was connected. I know it was off since day 1).

All that said I still like my heated intake. The PES is fine for track use but my little auto cruiser is just more suited for a heated intake. The kids can be a bit impatient when it's warming up (2 and 5 years old). The two year old cries like the world is falling apart if i start the car and he's not in it.

...but if I had a track car the PES would be the intake to get.

...then again if I had a track car a 250 probably wouldn't be under the hood. Even I'm not that much of a glutton for punishment!


I'm definitely NOT knocking the PES intake! It's a good piece of engineering. It's just not right for me.