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So Im planning on pulling out my 250 from my nova. This is my first time ever pulling an engine and transmission. Any tips, advice, or is it as simple as it sounds.
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What year nova and what trans? I pulled my 230 without the trans in my 70 Nova, several times. Need to support the trans bellhousing somehow. No big deal really, other than the sumbitch is heavy. I used a std engine hoist most of the time, and last time I put it in, used neighbors tractor to lower it down   The leveler bar with the crank handle is a VERY useful thing to have. Allows you to tilt the engine on the fly.
Last edited by 70Nova; 04/26/16 07:57 PM.
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Its a 1974 nova with a 3 speed powerglide. I thought the engine was gonna be light for some reason
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Also, a powerglide is only 2 speeds.....
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Also, a powerglide is only 2 speeds..... ...but it also has reverse so technically... 
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So what would it be called aha I've been told by people its a 3 spd and a few told me its a 2 spd
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If it is a 1974, the powerglide was all done in GM production much earlier than that. It should be a TH350 3 speed.
Inliner Member 1716 65 Chevelle Wagon and 41 Hudson Pickup Information and parts www.12bolt.com
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Also, a powerglide is only 2 speeds..... ...but it also has reverse so technically... Reverse is a gear, not a speed..really all I can do at this point to be nice, is just turn and walk away, shaking my head.....
Last edited by InlineDime; 04/27/16 06:43 PM.
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Reverse is a negative speed.
...just go with it.
OP: it's a th350 or turbo 350 as it's otherwise callled.
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Would any of you recommend a harbor freight engine stand?
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Reverse is a negative speed.
...just go with it.
OP: it's a th350 or turbo 350 as it's otherwise callled. wrong, wrong, and wrong again....." a negative speed"....lmao!
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HF engine stand is fine, get the bigger one. I have the smaller one and thats fine too. I made extra support beams from the front of the engine to the engine stand legs to carry some of the load, bolted it to something convenient up front on the block. I'm not worried about the stand holding up. Its a looooong, heavy engine. I didn't want to stress the engine block at the mounting bolt area unnecessarily.
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Reverse is a negative speed.
...just go with it.
OP: it's a th350 or turbo 350 as it's otherwise callled. wrong, wrong, and wrong again....." a negative speed"....lmao! Speed is expressed as a vector. A vector can have positive or negative values. So, yes, technically I'm correct from an engineer's perspective. ...and I'm sticking to it because I now have a 3 speed myself!
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What's our Vector, Victor?
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I'd look into a good engine stand for sure. I got edgy when I would see my inline move up an down on my engine stand. haha Be sure to use 8 grade bolts.
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Also, a powerglide is only 2 speeds..... ...but it also has reverse so technically... That made me laugh.
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Yeah I'm scared its just gonna flop since inlines are pretty long and them HF stands dont look to sturdy. I was also looking into the acdelco engine stands from oreillys.
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Speed is expressed as a vector. A vector can have positive or negative values. So, yes, technically I'm correct from an engineer's perspective.
I see now the reason to convince yourself you are correct. ....the "engineers perspective " tells me all I need to know.
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Yeah I'm scared its just gonna flop since inlines are pretty long and them HF stands dont look to sturdy. I was also looking into the acdelco engine stands from oreillys. I'm not sure what brand of stand I used cause it was given to me by a machinist buddy of mine. lol Even though at one time it held a BBC I still put a support on the front of my inliner. lol
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Should I go with headers, a split cast, or stock? My main goal for this car is a daily street car nothting to outrageous, but far from stock. If that makes any sense
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Should I go with headers, a split cast, or stock? My main goal for this car is a daily street car nothting to outrageous, but far from stock. If that makes any sense I like Clifford's tube headers the best. But Tom Langdon's is a darn good set for a more affordable cost.
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I'm running Langdon's headers. I really like them. Coated them with VHT ceramic header coating and they still look like new.
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So from what it seems like I shouldnt stick with the stock exhaust manifold aha
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I wouldn't when the others flow so much better. I gained a lot of power just by putting on the Langdon's.
One thing to note: if you do put on headers you'll have to seal up your intake heater runners, put in a heat plate and run coolant through it to heat it up. Langdon sells the heat plates pretty cheaply. Less than making it yourself.
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Gbauer thanks for the info.
I decided to get the HF stand hopefully everything goes well
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Just curious why you want to pull the motor? Rebuilding ?
51 GMC 4.2 turbo
Can't solved today's problems using the same technology/thinking that created them
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Yeah I'm going to rebuild it.
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Yeah I'm going to rebuild it. Lump port head, and bigger valves? 307 flat top pistons and bigger cam?
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Im not to sure about the bigger valves, but definitely lump port and bigger cam. I have to save up money cash for the pistons 😉😀
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So from what it seems like I shouldnt stick with the stock exhaust manifold aha Three options: Replacement tractor 292 HD manifold with 2.5" outlet - cheapest $201.98, and can be found on eBay and sometimes cheaper than that. Langdon cast headers - a bit more expensive $307.00 Clifford shorty tubular headers - premium $399.00
Last edited by Lifeguard; 05/05/16 03:34 PM.
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Im not to sure about the bigger valves, but definitely lump port and bigger cam. I have to save up money cash for the pistons 😉😀 Stock valve size with lumps does not get much of a power boost. Dyno tests show they need a 1.84" intake and 1.6" exhaust on a 250cid to see an improvement.
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Interesting, in order for a noticeable amount of power I basically need a new valvetrain
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Bigger gains come with bigger changes, but even with stock size valves, the lumps along with a cam change, headers and intake make a big difference over the bone stock engine. You just have to ask yourself what the final goal or objective is and work toward that.
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Bigger gains come with bigger changes, but even with stock size valves, the lumps along with a cam change, headers and intake make a big difference over the bone stock engine. You just have to ask yourself what the final goal or objective is and work toward that. I thought I saw in the dyno results that lumps plus stock valves were no better than stock valves in stock head?
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Only when used with the stock cam. Adding the first upgraded camshaft(Cam #1) improved power and torque just like any other engine. It made 31 more HP than with the stock cam.
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While since i plan on getting a bigger cam I misght as while change up the valves.
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Only when used with the stock cam. Adding the first upgraded camshaft(Cam #1) improved power and torque just like any other engine. It made 31 more HP than with the stock cam. Ahhhh.....so stock cam/valve/head = stock cam/valve/no-boss = stock cam/1.84/head = stock cam/valve/lump = stock cam/1.84/lump < upgrade cam/stock-valve/lump < upgrade cam/1.84/lump About like that?
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Say that again? regards,Rod. 
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Say that again? regards,Rod. = is equal to, < is less than. They covered this in grade school math back in my day. Basically any combo with the stock cam is going to show no improvement. And lumps with stock valves and upgraded cam will show improvement, and lumps with bigger valve and upgraded cam is even more improvement yet.
Last edited by Lifeguard; 05/06/16 12:01 AM.
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You may have some dyno pulls omitted from your copy of data, but stock head(1.72" valve) with lumps and stock cam and Clifford intake. Then same exact head with stock 1.72" valves and lumps, Clifford intake with Cam #1 installed = 31 HP increase!
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