Inliners International Forums General Discussion Engines 230 cam removal

I unscrewed the two screws from behind the cam gear and can get the cam to walk back and forth about 1/2". Then it stops HARD. Is there something to remove before I can get the cam out?

BTW, yes I have removed the fuel pump.

How about the Lifters? have they been removed as well? and the Dist.? If so nothing should be stopping it.

Head is off, lifters out, dizzy set aside.

Stops with a solid thunk about 1/2" out.

Dear Kevin;

Check & see if the oil pump is clear. Is there an 'after-market' dipstick tube?

dipstick is well out of the way, but I'll check the oil pump.

The Oil pump realy shouldn't be the issue,It sits way to low in the block from the cam. It's not locking up on the crank gear is it????.
just a Question I have What is the reason for removing the cam to start with? a Up Grade? did something Brake?? Have you tried to rotate The cam as you remove it to see what happens.??
I have never had or heard of a issue as you are having to remove it.

I didn't think about dist gear. But a 1/2 inch wouldn't clear the bearings. a 1/2 inch only half the bearing.
Is the Motor Still in the car?? Or is it on a Motor stand? If it is on a stand Turn the Motor Up side down so that You can Handle the cam from in side the block. It some More as if you are moving more then a 1/2 inch. A half inch would not even get you off the bearings. But once Your Off the bearings You will have a DEAD Thud as you say. Which Now You have to try and Hold the Cam Dead center as you can and Walk it On to each Bearing as you pull the cam Out of the Block. If you can not stank the Motor On it's end. and Pull the cam straight Up out of the motor, It is better to have the block upside down so that you can walk the cam out easier.

I got the motor as a freebie a couple of months ago and am slowly going through it. The reason it's a freebie is because there are no teeth on about 15* of the cam gear (so obviously, there was something wrong in that neighborhood in the first place).

I have the motor on a stand, upside down. Head off, pan off, soaking two of the cylinders (slight coating of rust due to the PO leaving the valve cover off and the engine out in the rain).

After I get the cam out, I'm going to (at least) remove the two pistons with the rust problem and hone the cylinders. Once that is done, I'll reinstall the pistons, replace the cam gear, verify that everything turns smoothly and fire it up. Oh yeah, and replace the locked up water pump

One more item. There is 40 years of oil and gunk built up inside the engine, on top of the head, in the pan, etc. so I'll be cleaning those up real well also (at least with a power sprayer). Can anybody recommend a good place in Dallas (north 'burbs) to get it tanked? I'll (obviously) remove all the pistons, rods, crank, etc. if I get this done.

TIA

Update on the removal, I got it out last night (this isn't a high priority project). I'm not really sure how I did it, but by turning it a few degrees back and forth while removing it, I found a spot where it popped out, nice as can be.

So now, I'm one step closer to getting it apart. To that end, I have a confession and another question.

First, the confession; the lifters weren't out before the removal attempt, the pushrods were In that vein, how would I remove them before the camshaft? It doesn't appear that there is any way to remove them prior to cam removal.

The question is; I have at least two pistons that need to come out to clean the bores of rust. I can move the crank (with some effort) and so I'm guessing these pistons aren't going to come out easily. What do I use to get the pistons out of the cylinders?

get a pick Or the V8 lifter removel tool some fit some don't. Other thing to do. turn the block up side down Reach in from the crank side and push them out. Some may even just fallout on their own.

T6, I don't see though how the lifters can come out before the cam. Getting them out afterwards shouldn't be to tough (pushing them out from the top with a pushrod maybe?)

To the other question, anyone else with ideas about piston removal? 2X2 and a rubber mallet maybe?

There is a lip on the inner edge of the Lifter which also has a small snap ring like that Holds the HYD lifters together It's that Lip is what the tool Or pick will hold onto to take the lifters out of the block. They all come out Unless they have so much wear that they become mushroomed on the bottom. So just think about this Your Not about to install the lifters Before You put the cam in would you?? So what goes in MUST come back out...

you can use a small hose clamp around the top of the lifter and pry them out with that. use carb cleaner or wd-40 or something to lossen the varnish build up on the bottom of the lifters.

the bores that are rusty clean them as much as you can the soak the pistions to free them up dont force them or you will damage the block

now for the rest of what you want to do. why waste time and money doing it half. check all the bores if it needs bored do it now while it is apart. save time and money in the long run.

LOL I run ito this problm some years ago .
It was the fuelpup lever that stopped the cam.
Remove the pump and it comes out.

In your case it also might be a lifter clearence problem.

If in good condition it is a peace of cake to remove the lifters. If they are stuck or rusted in you can soak them with wd40 or similar stuff and pry them out of the bare engine with a wooden stick (broom ore something).

Frank

OK, I'm fantastically stupid. Do the lifters come out the top of the engine or the bottom? If they come out of the bottom, how can they come out before the cam? If they come out of the top, how is that possible (I don't recall that the hole that the pushrods go down is big enough).

Sorry for the lack of knowledge, but this really is puzzling me.

BTW, bob308, I agree that I should disassemble the entire motor, and at least do a full re-ring (plus verify that all the bores are OK). Not to worry, I'll do it right

C-Dan, it's not the fuel pump (I had already removed it) I believe it was a lifter problem, but I'm still struggling with how that can be avoided.

Okay,just a stab here. Is the side cover removed?

Dear Kevin;

Simply squirt a little laquer thinner on them & they come right out from the top (cam in/out).

Next time it will be easy.

Drew, You have discovered the edge of my stupidity! Thanks, that's what I'm missing.

John, I will try this and report as I go along.

Thanks for (and to) all, I really do appreciate the patience

lol it's great to be a first timer huh LOL Just joking as you go on you'll learn a bunch More stuff Just don't give up. And Have fun along the way
Ps not to worry many of us maybe teachers BUT we are all still learners/students

Thx! BTW, the 'edge of my stupidity' may have been premature. I haven't had much time to discover what I don't know yet

kevin, Not to worry. I'll show you my list of "stupid" some day. As Larry put well, we are all learners/students and fun is the reward.

Dear Kevin;

Nothing here has anything to do with 'stupid'.

One of my College Professors had this plaque above his desk on the wall. It read: "ignorance is a correctable difficency, stupid is forever".

Making a mistake is not stupid. Making it twice is.

ok the way it sounded you were going to just take out the 2 pistions in the rusted bores and just clean them up and put it back together. i have more then one tractor guy want me to do that.

bob, that was my original thought, but upon further review, I decided that a 40 year old motor really should get the full treatment.

see you are not stupid at all. you thought that one through.