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#89697 05/13/16 09:40 PM
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What page do you recommend for specs?


Martin
'64 Nova wagon
'69 C10
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What torque specs are you looking for? I have a 1968 Chilton manual that gives torque specs for a 250. I also have a reprint of the '64 Chevy II factory service manual, so let me know what torque specs you need and I'll see if I can find them.


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The torque specs are pretty much universal in all the sources i've seen. Rods are 35-40 ft.-lbs, Mains are 60-70 ft. lbs, etc...Of course these are only for use with stock OEM bolts and nuts, aftermarket fasteners will be different, so you would need to follow their specs accordingly.



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Okay, here are the torque specs I came up with.
Cyl. Head bolts: 90-95 ft-lbs
Rod Bearing bolts: 35-40 ft-lbs
Main bearing bolts: 60-70 ft-lbs
Flywheel to crank bolts: 50-65 ft-lbs
Intake manifold: 25-30 ft-lbs
Exhaust manifold: 15-20 ft-lbs

Those are from the Chilton manual, I'm sure that they're the same in the factory manual as well, just like CNC-Dude said.


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On a 194-230-250 the front two head bolts should be set around 80-85 I believe to help prevent cracking.


1966 C10 292/tko600 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=596643
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And put on the water pump first to help from distortion of those two front bolts


Josh
72 gmc lwb air ride 5 speed (soon) turbo 292 II# 6102
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Originally Posted By: TJ's Chevy
On a 194-230-250 the front two head bolts should be set around 80-85 I believe to help prevent cracking.


It's already going to be cracked! 99.9% of all short deck blocks crack in the first few thousand miles after rolling out of Detroit. Backing off the torque is really a moot point and only reduces the clamping effect of the gasket and makes it a blown gasket hazard. Torquing it to the normal specs won't hurt a thing.



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Geez Scott atleast put some sugar on it! Haha


Josh
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Oh yeah, forgot! laugh




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Hahahahahaha


Josh
72 gmc lwb air ride 5 speed (soon) turbo 292 II# 6102

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