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Cylinder head has arrived at Toms, the build has been resurrected!

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Just received the head back from Tom's, along with some roller rockers and an engine stand!







Now I'm trying to achieve the correct pushrod length. The original length is 9.68". I installed them to see how they lined up





Seemed a bit short. I made an adjustable pushrod out of an old one and tried again.





Those are the pushrod at 10", which seems high to me but I've never built an inline 6, much less with roller rockers either. The block has been decked .030, Tom re-worked the head so I'm sure it lost a little, and it also has a new cam. The lifter was tack welded to stop it from collapsing during testing.

For those of you who have done a roller conversion, does this seem about right or am I way off.

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Just browsing I found that the Ford 300 takes a 10.14" pushrod, and they make a shorter 10.080 version. The number is RP-3260, may be an easy to find push rod vs having custom length ones made!

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By roller conversion, are you meaning roller cam or just roller rockers? You are showing a measurement of more than a .300" longer pushrod than what you started with. And by all accounts decking the block and probably the head by the amounts you mentioned should have taken you the other way. You might want to re-check your length again. You should also put a precision straight edge across the tops of the valve tips to see how closely they are to one another and make sure you don't have any too much shorter or longer than others to make sure you are being as accurate as you can be.



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Roller rockers.

I put in the original pushrod, tightened down the large nut on the rocker arm until I could not spin the pushrod, then locked it with the small inner allen set screw. The first 2 pictures are what the valve looked like on full close and full open. The lifter was the tack welded one, so it can't be collapsing.

Am I doing something wrong? I was assuming so far that the different rocker arms were the reason for the change.

Last edited by Mitch; 07/16/15 05:32 PM.
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I use Smith Brothers pushrods. They will sell to you also. Tell them I sent you.

With the combination of:
Different rocker arm
New cam
block decked
Head cut
Head rebuilt with all new parts

It stands to reason, stock pushrod length is too short. 10" does not sound out of line to me. Each engine is different. Your pics look like the roller is centered.

All my engines use longer than stock pushrods. Heck, the 292 pushrods are getting close to 12".

Good job.

Last edited by tlowe #1716; 07/16/15 05:42 PM.

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I got my pushrods from Smith bros. Great set for sure!


1966 C10 292/tko600 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=596643
1964 C20 292/sm420
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Found a great video on measuring pushrod length, I might re-check everything with that.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o5is9BsH5OU

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Alrighty, just returned from my deployment. Paid off all my loans (house, car) while I was there, and had planned on spending 1 year loan free before buying anything else so I could spend money on family trips, car parts, etc. Well, a shop came up for sale in town and it's too perfect to pass up so I'm purchasing it for my side business of restoring and customizing cars. It is across the street from my day job (auto part sales and repair) and literally less than a block from my home. Gotta love small towns! Well, I made it 3 weeks loan free anyways...

I had just started buying car parts when the shop became available, however I hadn't stocked up much for the inline. I bought a 6.0 ls engine, disassembled, for an 86 Chevy K10 I picked up for $200. Then I found a 6 speed auto tranny and ls3 top end for that same project. I bought new taillights for my 3rd gen Camaro, had all the machine work finished for my other 6.0 shortblock (all ARP, Callies Compstar rods, forged pistons, etc), etc etc.

My inline six only received a a MegaSquirt 2. I bought the disassembled version because I love tinkering! Got it all assembled, set up for HEI ignition and electric cooling fan. I had planned on buying intake and exhaust manifolds, tbi unit, HEI ignition, etc etc so it would be ready to run, but the business came and took all my spare money.

After a couple months I will re-evaluate my finances and hopefully start funding my own projects. Worst case scenario, it's on a 5 year contract for deed so I'll go project free for 5 years (except labor items).

Anyways, here is a pic of the MegaSquirt 2, and a video if I can figure it out!



[img]http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/...slaut.mp4[/img]

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You have a bunch on the plate. Don't forget, adding a family with kids can also throw a wrench into plans. But usually in a good way.

Good luck on your shop!


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Originally Posted By: tlowe #1716
I use Smith Brothers pushrods. They will sell to you also. Tell them I sent you.

With the combination of:
Different rocker arm
New cam
block decked
Head cut
Head rebuilt with all new parts

It stands to reason, stock pushrod length is too short. 10" does not sound out of line to me. Each engine is different. Your pics look like the roller is centered.

All my engines use longer than stock pushrods. Heck, the 292 pushrods are getting close to 12".

Good job.


When my engine builder measured the pushrods for my 292 and had them made from Smith Bros, He said they were the longest pushrods he's ever seen. lol


1966 C10 292/tko600 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=596643
1964 C20 292/sm420
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Originally Posted By: tlowe #1716
You have a bunch on the plate. Don't forget, adding a family with kids can also throw a wrench into plans. But usually in a good way.

Good luck on your shop!


I have a wife and 2 kids currently and we are going to try for a 3rd soon! Another reason for the shop is so I can have a space for the kids to play, that way I can still spend time with them.

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Unfortunately, I will probably be selling this engine. I have decided I would rather pay off all my business loans right and do a build down the road when it wont have to be in the backround, so to speak. Probably will sell some of my other engines too...

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