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From Section X, page 8 of the clubs Constitution one of the avenues that the website is suppose to provide along with attracting new members, promoting Club and Chapter events is "disseminating information and materials related to Inline engines and products,and providing an online place for members and non-members to share information about the Club and inline engines" With that I would like to start a thread with a focus on new parts from our Inliners members and non members along with those who provide services ,especially machine shops that specialize or still work on Inlines. As it seems these machine shops are shrinking in numbers.I would like to try this, I ask that everyone be civil towards each other in your posts.If not i will delete the thread just saying this upfront folks.
Last edited by nln6pinto; 01/11/16 12:46 AM.
Az Chapter Head
34' Ford Cabriolet Ford 300 & C-4 under Construction
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www.T6racing.org, the originator of the Sissell inspired bolt-in lumps and other products.
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Auto Marine Machine in Carson City, NV has always done right by me. Sometimes things take a little longer than expected but is has always bee right. Ernie in an Inline fan. Auto Marine Machine Dyno Run
"I wonder if God created man because he was disappointed in the monkey?" Mark Twain
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Hart's Machine in Cecil, OH (Northeast of Fort Wayne on US 24) did excellent work on my 216 at old school prices. Inliners will know they are in the right place when they see what's hanging out front . . .
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Here is where I got my 292 done. Same guys that did Santucci's spliced head. Great people!! Groton CT. [/URL]
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For any Oregon members I had my 292 done at Peckham Precision Engines. Jerry has done a number of these and his work is flawless. Stays in contact and is sure to know Exactly what you want done. I supplied alot of the "specialty" parts for him, but he was able to get the rest no issue. His number. 541-955-0894.
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I can't speak about any machine shops yet but for service Tom Langdon was excellent. When I decided to start building my 250 I called him up to order headers. He talked with me for a good 30 minutes and told me a TON about these engines. Steered me away from individual port EFI.
Headers came quickly and are very good quality.
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When I was looking for someone to build a head for my 153 Chevy 4 cylinder. Tom Lowe stepped up to do it with 2/3 of a valve set, valves, seats, springs, rocker stands, lumps …….Later when I wanted 4 Ross pistons he broke up a set for me. You can't beat it. Even if some sets were offered in sets of four Tom offered it to me. That along with all the dialog and followup made the work fit my build. HEAD
"I wonder if God created man because he was disappointed in the monkey?" Mark Twain
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With the growing interest in the Atlas 4200 engines, Marc Piccioni makes a cast aluminum rear sump oil pan for engine swapping these engines into early passenger cars and trucks. Here's a link below! Atlas 4200 oil pan
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Great thread. A friend with a 1931 Chevy 6 asks who out there still pours babbitt bearings?
Thanks, Mark
Mark '67 Camaro L6-250
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Egge Machine is about the only one's i've heard of that still do. Egge Machine
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Great thread. A friend with a 1931 Chevy 6 asks who out there still pours babbitt bearings?
Thanks, Mark This is precisely what caused me to choose Hart's in the first place: Hart's Machine they know antique engines and they do everything including babbitt work in house: Hart's babbitt service video regards, stock49
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Great thread, I'll be checking in as I plan and scheme. Thanks..!
inarow
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I've used Paul's in MO for my Babbitt work for 40+ yrs. Wasn't too long ago, I did a '31. They'll give me high tin Babbitt semi'd so I can line bore back here. Russ is very helpful and will do what you want. Good people, good service. David
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With the growing interest in the Atlas 4200 engines, Marc Piccioni makes a cast aluminum rear sump oil pan for engine swapping these engines into early passenger cars and trucks. Here's a link below! Atlas 4200 oil pan Some odd shaped aluminum lumps fell off the back to the delivery truck this week.. lumps of aluminum...
Last edited by efi-diy; 02/20/16 05:06 AM.
51 GMC 4.2 turbo Can't solved today's problems using the same technology/thinking that created them
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Well, The aluminum looks good you can probably melt it down and make something useful out of it.
"I wonder if God created man because he was disappointed in the monkey?" Mark Twain
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Although there is no shortage of engine machine shops around here (Charlotte NC) Carolina Auto Machine did the work on my weird little Willys F-head 161 inline 6. They actually knew what it was! Nice folks to work with and fair price. And I used Delta Cam in Tacoma.... Very quick turn around and again, they knew what the engine was and had done them before.
Last edited by Xerxes; 02/20/16 08:12 PM.
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Pans are shipped. The tap is full on to build in qty.
51 GMC 4.2 turbo Can't solved today's problems using the same technology/thinking that created them
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I don't have any current recommendation for a machine shop, but there is a product that I can definitely recommend. It's a penetrating oil called Kroil, made by Kano Labs. It works amazingly well on rusted nuts, bolts, screws, and will lower your blood pressure and reduce the number of swear words while you're trying to unfasten rusted hardware.
I had heard about this stuff on a firearms forum, and ordered both a spray can and a regular can, which may be a lifetime supply. You don't need much of it for it to work. About two weeks ago, I was taking the front bumper off of my '64 Nova, and the nuts on the bumper bolts had probably been in place for about 40 to 50 years, and were all pretty rusty. I fought with the first one for about half an hour, trying different wrenches and sockets, and not having much success at unscrewing the nut. I finally decided to try some Kroil on in, and used the spray can with a plastic applicator tube to direct the spray.
I sprayed all the bumper bolt nuts with Kroil, waited about ten minutes, then proceeded to unscrew all the nuts from the bolts with little or no effort.
You probably won't find this stuff at your local hardware store. I got the spray can at Tacoma Screw Products in Boise. I had to order the standard can on line, which may be the simplest way to buy it, because TSP stores are mostly just in the Pacific Northwest area of the country. Just Google Kroil, and you should be able to come up with a retailer to order it from. This stuff puts Liquid Wrench to shame.
Formerly known as 64NovaWagon.
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I don't have any current recommendation for a machine shop, but there is a product that I can definitely recommend. It's a penetrating oil called Kroil, made by Kano Labs. It works amazingly well on rusted nuts, bolts, screws, and will lower your blood pressure and reduce the number of swear words while you're trying to unfasten rusted hardware.
I had heard about this stuff on a firearms forum, and ordered both a spray can and a regular can, which may be a lifetime supply. You don't need much of it for it to work. About two weeks ago, I was taking the front bumper off of my '64 Nova, and the nuts on the bumper bolts had probably been in place for about 40 to 50 years, and were all pretty rusty. I fought with the first one for about half an hour, trying different wrenches and sockets, and not having much success at unscrewing the nut. I finally decided to try some Kroil on in, and used the spray can with a plastic applicator tube to direct the spray.
I sprayed all the bumper bolt nuts with Kroil, waited about ten minutes, then proceeded to unscrew all the nuts from the bolts with little or no effort.
You probably won't find this stuff at your local hardware store. I got the spray can at Tacoma Screw Products in Boise. I had to order the standard can on line, which may be the simplest way to buy it, because TSP stores are mostly just in the Pacific Northwest area of the country. Just Google Kroil, and you should be able to come up with a retailer to order it from. This stuff puts Liquid Wrench to shame. I agree 100% with this statement. I have worked farm mechanics for most of my life, and this stuff is gold here in the wet northwest.
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.....And I used Delta Cam in Tacoma.... Very quick turn around and again, they knew what the engine was and had done them before. I have bought 3 different reground cams and tappet sets from Delta,and also recommend them highly. When I get ready to put a 3/4 cam in my 226 flat 6 Ford,that's whose bell I will be ringing.
Last edited by Bender; 01/05/17 07:42 PM. Reason: add tag line
Need 226 Ford flathead 6 cast iron headers.
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sign up list for the initial run of 4200 flywheels sign up - yes you will need to join to sign up .. otherwise pm me on here
Last edited by efi-diy; 02/06/17 02:14 AM.
51 GMC 4.2 turbo Can't solved today's problems using the same technology/thinking that created them
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Auto Marine Machine in Carson City, NV has always done right by me. Sometimes things take a little longer than expected but is has always bee right. Ernie in an Inline fan. Auto Marine Machine Dyno Run That's great info now that I am a Nevada resident as well! Any tips on machine shop services in Southern Nevada? We'll be heading up to Carson soon for some BMX racing!
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I don't know anything about Southern Nevada, Well not about machine shops.
"I wonder if God created man because he was disappointed in the monkey?" Mark Twain
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I don't know anything about Southern Nevada, Well not about machine shops. No worries, at least I have a handle on something in Carson! Thank you!
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There have to be some good shops down there. There is a big car culture in the area.
"I wonder if God created man because he was disappointed in the monkey?" Mark Twain
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Called around North east Kansas And Central Mo and Nebraska for someone that still step bores the mains on the 235 /261 engines. Found that United Machine Co in Wichita Ks does them.
Road Builders in Kansas City Ks has closed there machine shop i was told.
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